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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a new Rick's Hot Shot charging rotor for my CB350 project and I would like if someone who has installed these rotors before gave me some guidance/reassurance. The lack of instructional videos on the internet indicates to me that it's what we call "a no-**** deal" in my garage, but messing with it a little last night it didn't feel that way. The woodruff key and its matching groove in the rotor obviously indicate that the rotor can only go on one way. The tapered nature of the crankshaft end indicates that it's going to meet increasing resistance as it is pushed closer to the flywheel. My question is: Is this resistance simply to be overcoming by torquing the retaining bolt? It seems like I've probably got an inch and a half further to go before the rotor is "home." I always like to ask before I force something. Thanks!
 

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You just gotta make sure the key is fully, evenly, seated in its keyway, and that you are double sure the rotor is aligned properly. It’s a tapered fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, so once I'm positive that the key is properly seated in the crank and positioned accordingly on the rotor, it should slide almost fully into place with minimal fuss, and then the retaining bolt will pull it the rest of the way? I guess I'm just concerned about putting too much tension on the bolt or otherwise bungling something that I would very much prefer to not bungle!

Also, KC? I live in Lawrence! Do you get out to Blip's Sunday morning ride in ever?
 

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Sensei
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It can't go on further than the taper will allow....IF the key/key-way are properly aligned, You should be able to seat it fully pushing it on by hand....

Sometimes so well you would need the puller to get it back off ....

I suspect that you did not remove the starter sprocket from the crank and assemble the entire thing as a unit....
(chain and BOTH sprockets, with the larger sprocket already in the starter clutch mechanism)

Call if you need clarification.....540-525-5199...Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Steve, that's the answer I was looking for. I guess I just need to make sure the woodruff is lining up correctly.

You're correct, I did NOT assemble the entire thing as a unit. I had 2 crankcases next to one another; one a blank canvas, so to speak, and one completely assembled donor. I removed the rotor from the donor, removed the flywheel from the donor and moved it directly to the new engine, then swapped the starter clutch from the donor to the brand new rotor and tried to slide it into place. I'll be back after it tonight, hopefully more successfully!

Thanks again Steve, big help!
 

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Sensei
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You DID loctite and stake the three screws that hold the starter clutch to the rotor ...RIGHT ?....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hahahaha Steve, you've been around this block before...haven't you? Yes sir, I loctited and staked the screws back in place!
 

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Hahahaha Steve, you've been around this block before...haven't you? Yes sir, I loctited and staked the screws back in place!
Dude, many of us have been around this block before, but Steve's been around probably every block at least once...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just realized I left this thread "open," I try to make sure to report back when issues are resolved if for no other reason than historical accuracy. I hate when I come across a thread where someone had the problem I'm currently experiencing but it is left unresolved!

SO, obviously everyone above is correct. I wasn't sure how far the key needed to seat into its groove, etc. I messed around using trial and error for a little while, then realized that that's a silly approach. I got my calipers out and measured the hole in the rotor; If memory serves, it was 17mm in the key-way. Measuring the taper of the crank at the end of the key showed that the key needed to sit another mm or so down into the crank. I tapped it a little bit, making sure it stayed flat, and then was able to slide the rotor on by hand. Thanks again for your help everyone!
 
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