Honda Twins banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,610 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The last thing I need to do before I try and fire up the CB350 for the first time is set the ignition timing. I've read Bill's write-up on setting the ignition timing and was feeling confident about the process. However, once I started I soon realized that the points on my bike don't seem to be even close. Hooked up the test light and its on for most of the rotation of the crank.

So, is there a procedure I can follow to help get the points in the ball park enough so I can then follow along with Bill's procedure? Is there a way to determine if the advancer is setup correctly and not 180 degrees out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,495 Posts
Perry -

If you're sure you are on compression stroke, and the little points foot is nowhere near the "first" lobe on the advancer cam, then you may be 180 off. Swap it around and give it a try.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,610 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you Bill, good info. Looks like mine is OK, guess I got lucky when I installed it, 50/50 chance anyway.

Still having issues getting the points setup correctly. I understand the process but never really had enough time to play with it today, hopefully I'll get time tomorrow.

Once the test light comes on, how long (rotation wise) should it stay on when turning the crank?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,495 Posts
HerrDeacon said:
Still having issues getting the points setup correctly. I understand the process but never really had enough time to play with it today, hopefully I'll get time tomorrow.

Once the test light comes on, how long (rotation wise) should it stay on when turning the crank?
Set the left gap to about 0.014" for new points. Then rotate the whole point plate to make the point open (light comes on) exactly on the mark. Triple check, as they might move when you tighten down.

Then rotate the crank 180 CCW and make the right point open exactly on its mark by adjusting its gap.

Hopefully the point plate is pretty near to center, and the right point gap ended up pretty close to the left's 0.014" setting.
If not, there's some stuff at the end of the article at my website on how to deal with it.

The light will stay on (point still open) for some time, it's not a concern.........

http://home.comcast.net/~tbpmusic6/450site.htm

If a set of new points doesn't allow the easy setup I described, something's wrong somewhere.

I'd also recommend a HondaMan ignition thing for about $60 - a wonderful device, really stabilized the timing, now I have a 1,000 rpm idle, steady as a tractor. I had a post with photos a while back..........
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,610 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks once again Bill, all makes perfect sense. The points I'm using are not new, but the existing ones that came on the bike, so I'm hoping I'll be able to do it. Just trying to get it running so I can hear it and evaluate the engine/transmission before I remove it from the frame.

Definitely going with the HondaMan unit when I'm ready to put it on the road, heard good things about it. Nice price too, compared to the electronic units available.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,610 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Think I have it now. Only thing is that on the left side, my light comes on right on the mark but dimly at first, then further in the rotation goes to full brightness. The rightside however, turns on full bright right on the mark. Is this a cause for concern? Normal? Indication that its still not correct?

Now keep in mind that I was doing this exercise with a partially dead battery. Its the only one I have lying around at the moment, so I used it for this exercise. its showing a little over 10 volts. I won't be using it to run the bike, but just used it to get the ignition setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,495 Posts
HerrDeacon said:
Think I have it now. Only thing is that on the left side, my light comes on right on the mark but dimly at first, then further in the rotation goes to full brightness. The rightside however, turns on full bright right on the mark. Is this a cause for concern? Normal? Indication that its still not correct?

Now keep in mind that I was doing this exercise with a partially dead battery. Its the only one I have lying around at the moment, so I used it for this exercise. its showing a little over 10 volts. I won't be using it to run the bike, but just used it to get the ignition setup.
Sounds like you have it now. It's actually pretty simple, though I always thought it was an unfortunate design choice to make on Honda's part. It would have been easy to make a movable right side point "plate" like on a Gold Wing or SOHC Four.

The bulb brightness goofiness could be a bad point unit.
But it could also be due to bad battery for sure.
The little 12-volt bulbs we use are just that - 12 volts.
They won't even work at all with the HondaMan ignition, which drops the current through the points dramatically.

So check it again with a good battery, just to be sure.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,610 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Bill, I really appreciate all your help with this. Like you said, it is a very simple task. I knew and understood the whole procedure in my mind, but must admit that it did take a bit of time to get it when actually doing it. Once you do it though, you realize how easy it is. The hardest part for me was getting the right side setup, it was very finicky and tightening the points plate at the end would change it slightly :evil: .

Hopefully I can attempt to fire it up this weekend.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top