[krukster86]

So one thing that has been bugging me lately is brake squeal. Around the time of Mods vs Rockers in mid June, I noticed that my brakes would squeal when I would apply them. I didn't pay too much attention to it until the past 2 weeks. The squeal is progressively louder, and now I also get squeaking when the bike is moving, i.e. the brakes are not applied. I read online that one symptom might be glazing of the rotor, so I cleaned the rotor and then scuffed it up with a scotch brite pad. I am not sure if it really worked, since I had some relief for a good 20 minutes of riding, but then the problem came back. I guess I can start by ordering a new set of brake pads right? I also hear that the brake pads should be "glued" onto the piston with this stuff called "Brake Quiet" rather than silicone sealer.

 

[66Sprint]

Grease the caliper arm pivot pin and re-adjust to specs...Neither pad should touch the rotor when the hand lever is out.. Check to make sure the brake fluid is not moisture contaminated, this will cause the piston to "stick' and retreat slowly (if at all)..... Also check for pad contamination (wet or oily)

 

[krukster86]

Thanks Steve, will do

 

[Bird76Mojo]

This problem plagues a bunch of old Hondas. A lot of guys have the rotor turned and drilled, then rebuild the caliper completely just so they know that the piston is actually returning correctly. Also a steel brake line may help as well. Make sure the caliper has the plastic washer behind the pad. Deglaze the pads again and post a pic for review might help as well. Just to be sure that you're doing it enough. Same with the rotor.

Another method that some people swear on is to take a file to the pads themselves and give the edges all the way around a 45 degree angle.

Also, what Steve mentioned about adjusting the caliper arm correctly..

GB :mrgreen:

 

[66Sprint]

Thanks Bird...I forgot about chamfering the pucks.....

 

[Bird76Mojo]

There's that word I was looking for!! Chamfering, yeah that's it... Now, to remember it.

GB :mrgreen:

 

[66Sprint]

...LMAO!...... :lol:

 

[leethal]

chamfering the pucks

Worked for my XS650.

 

[trublu]

I chamferred MY pucks once...YOW!! :shock: :shock:


:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[krukster86]

You mean the entire surface of the pads? i.e. when viewed from the side, they should look like |\ not like | |

 

[tbpmusic]

You mean the entire surface of the pads? i.e. when viewed from the side, they should look like |\ not like | |

Just around the circumference......

 

[krukster86]

D'oh! that is what I thought :lol:

 

[KERRY]

Just rounding off the edges of the friction material. dust between the puck and the rotor makes 'em squeal. Just a guess, but the square edge might be more prone to fracture on the micro scale, creating the dust you don't want. One of the old solutions was to cut an "X" across the face of the pucks with an hacksaw. Never tried it, myself. The bit with making sure the caliper carrier pivot turns freely (one of the things I put a touch of oil on now and again) and the fixed side clearance is set is a good idea. I clamp a piece of paper in between puck and rotor, then adjust 'til it comes out.

 

[krukster86]

All are great ideas. Thanks everyone! Now I just need to find some free time to try this out :evil:

 

[KERRY]

Just rounding off the edges of the friction material. dust between the puck and the rotor makes 'em squeal. Just a guess, but the square edge might be more prone to fracture on the micro scale, creating the dust you don't want. One of the old solutions was to cut an "X" across the face of the pucks with an hacksaw. Never tried it, myself. The bit with making sure the caliper carrier pivot turns freely (one of the things I put a touch of oil on now and again) and the fixed side clearance is set is a good idea. I clamp a piece of paper in between puck and rotor, then adjust 'til it comes out.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Here's someone with a similar problem going through the paces trying to fix it, and their story. Scroll down a tiny bit to Fixing noisy brakes on a Honda 550 http://hondacb550f.blogspot.com/

I do disagree with him on one thing though. He cut his brake pads as many do, but he cut all the way through to the metal backing plate. That, to me, is a no no! If you do that, I'd just cut grooves about a 1/16th" - 1/8th" deep.

GB :mrgreen:

 

[krukster86]

Great find GB! I have it bookmarked, and I will avoid making cuts to the metal backing :lol:

 

[krukster86]

So, I had about 30 minutes of light outside so I went to work. Bled the brakes all the way and saw that the fluid wasn't perfect, but it wasn't swamp juice. Inspected the brake spring adjuster bolt and realized that the nut on it was all sorts of messed up. Turns out its threads are pretty much gone and it just twirls in place. I inspected the brake pads and they were not chamfered, and they appeared glossy so they are definitely glazed.

I have a new set of pads coming in the mail and plan to take every precaution to have the quietest brakes possible.

 

[66Sprint]

Get a new bolt and locknut, and make sure the spring is on it...That's what adjusts the whole arm/caliper assembly and the spring returns it so the pads don't rub and glaze.........

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Just a thought here, but your rotor may require more serious work. The metals they used back then for these rotors were inferior compared to todays modern alloys. If you can get it turned (a very minor amount) for cheap then I'd go for it. The rotors get glazed over and the metal "smeared" onto itself over the years and it's quite hard to remove all of that yourself properly. Plus it may require repeating quite often. There are other options as well. Newer rotors from certain models will bolt up but the offset isn't quite perfect..

Then there's the argument on the proper way to break in the brakes to prevent further sqealing....

On any level, keep us updated on your progress Kruk.

GB :mrgreen: