[mktsc]

Well I found the problem with my CB360. When I pulled the side cover off, I noticed that the oil pump drive gear (item 12, page 50 of the CB360 shop manual) wasn't really attached to anything, but held somewhat in place by the oil pump setting plate (item 11, page 50 of the CB360 shop manual). Furthermore it was coming in contact with one of the bolts that held the oil filter screen on.

The good news is that nothing looked fragged, and I should be good to go as soon as I get a new oil pump assembly. However it spawned one question. Is there an alternate way to get the oil filter lock nut out without using the special honda tool? If not I'll have to see if the local vintage parts place has one.

It should also be noted that it looked factory fresh inside there! There was absolutely nothing in the filter, and the screen was also free and clear. The oil was all light colored and not blackened.

Here's a few pix of what I found:

 

[66Sprint]

A few questions...... Is that RUST on the pick-up tube?.....
Is the Phillips/hex bolt the one that "jammed" the pump?......
How are you sure the filter is clean as you havent removed the circlip and "spinner" in your pic?......
How is it your hands are still clean?....LOL.... Steve

 

[mktsc]

LOL. I turned up the exposure, recovery and fill light of that photo in Lightroom. This is the reason my hands "appear" to be clean, and the pickup "appears" to have rust on it. That's actually the factory brazing on the pickup.

 

[66Sprint]

OK...LOL.... Did you open the centrifugal filter yet? (NOT the pump filter screen....)

 

[66Sprint]

AND... You do know that you can remove the oil pump and pick-up on a 360 WITHOUT removing the centrifugal filter....RIGHT?
I can go step by step if needed....

 

[mktsc]

Wasn't aware of that! It just looked to me like I needed to get the idle gear out of the way to access the pump, and the only way to do that is to remove the centrifugal filter. I got the snap ring and cover off the filter, and the inside was beautiful.

So what's the best way to get the pump out without removing the filter housing?

-MK

 

[66Sprint]

Pull the tube out (idler gear shaft...the one with the e-clip), remove the larger (forward gear,) then remove pick-up (3 bolts) then the pump (Last two bolts)..... ,

 

[mktsc]

I was not aware that that hollow idle gear shaft just pulled out! I'll have to give that a try. There's no e-clip on that shaft that I can see though, just a washer that slides right off.

Thanks again Steve,

-MK

 

[66Sprint]

Please take a "straight-on" pic once you get the large idler gear off...... I believe your pump is "broken", but can't tell from the previous pic angle.....You are correct...it's just a thrust washer.....Don't loose it!......

 

[mktsc]

I think the pump is most definately broken. That gear isn't connected to anything, but is still held in place by the plate.

-MK

 

[jayel]

So what's the best way to get the pump out without removing the filter housing?

-MK

a 1/4 lb. of C-4 tucked behind clutch hub or about 3 1/2 foot of Det-Cord wrapped around lower case on the split should shake things loose :shock:

 

[mktsc]

I think we're fresh out of C-4, but I'll have to ask my wife where she left the rest of the det-cord the last time she used it...

:mrgreen:

 

[mktsc]

The culprit:

 

[66Sprint]

Yeah,...That COULD cause some issues.......Doh!.....

 

[mktsc]

Installed new oil pump, re-assembled bike. Started right up, idled great, ran great, sounded great. Went for short ride to build trust and warm engine. Returned home <3min later to inspect bike, oil spewing out from points cover. Bike continues to run great.

So what did I do now? Cam seals? How hard/expensive to fix?

-MK

 

[tbpmusic]

Installed new oil pump, re-assembled bike. Started right up, idled great, ran great, sounded great. Went for short ride to build trust and warm engine. Returned home <3min later to inspect bike, oil spewing out from points cover. Bike continues to run great.

So what did I do now? Cam seals? How hard/expensive to fix?

-MK

Cheap and easy - the seal is still available from Honda.
Remove point plate and spark advancer - there it is, around the end of the cam.
Use silicon in moderation....

 

[mktsc]

any special method to getting the old one out?

found this on eBay, is this what I need?
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R4 ... 0198838669

 

[tbpmusic]

any special method to getting the old one out?

found this on eBay, is this what I need?
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R4 ... 0198838669

No, you just need the rubber seal (probably)-
Part # OIL SEAL (22X35X5) 91251-KM1-003 (replaces 91202-286-023)

About $5 from Honda.
Get it off the best you can without scarring up the cover part or the cam itself.

 

[mktsc]

Called the local Honda dealership and ordered the seal. They gave me some dimensions (approximately 32mmx25mmx5mm or something) and it was $6.92. It'll be here next friday.

So it just basically looks like a rubber seal. I mean should I grab it with some needle nose pliers and rip it out, or try to pry it out with a screwdriver? Has someone done this who can chime in?

Hopefully this will be the last piece in the puzzle and I'll actually get to ride this thing!

-MK

 

[jayel]

a seal puller is basically just a hook, just get a hold of it how ever you can and pull it out, take care not to mar its outer seating surface (the head itself).... from the looks of that oil pump somebody doesn't need any det-cord.... did a fine job without it.... was there any thing in the trochoidal oil pump gears that could have locked it up?