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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Howdy,
I'd like to preface this with "This is a long way to say about four concerns, but I'm sortof treating it as a splashboard for my own thoughts. If anyone is down to offer suggestions from experience, it'd be greatly appreciated. If not, I have my thoughts in one place so I can reference it later."

I'm working on a CL350- it's my first bigboy bike (I had a moped in highschool and I've designed and welded bicycle frames for years)- I'm in this weird spot where the engine is back on the bike but I'm draggingass on getting everything together. I guess I need guidance- or a few pointers on things I'm not sure about but understand to be pretty crucial. To recap- I took the engine completely apart, remachined the decayed tension rollers from Delrin, scribed my name in the oil splash pan, put everything back together, took it apart again cos the kickstart shatthebed, timed the cam, now everything on the surface seems fine.

First off, I think my battery is shot. I bought the bike in December, and didn't maintain the battery cos I've never owned a vehicle with a battery, and now when I charge it, it'll go to around 11.5V, but when I put my multimeter on it immediately after charging, I can watch the voltage drop at a pretty rapid pace. It rests at about 8.5V. So I'm in the market for a new battery- currently I have a MotoBatt MB12U on there. I was going to get the same battery, but since I'm going to make a new seat pan (mine is a little too wide/tall for my liking- I'm not trying to make a cafe-ass-breaker type seat, but I'd like it to be a little thinner), and the MB12U sticks up a little I figured I'd check if anyone has any recommendations for similar batteries that might be slightly shorter but still fit in the CL350 battery holster. I could always bend the seat pan in the center so that it clears the battery. I was going to get the Battery Tender brand 12V 120CCA (https://www.dimecitycycles.com/deltran-battery-tender-lithium-battery-12v-120-cca.html) because of the clearance and cos everyother electronic I own (power tools, modified VHS cameras, bike lights) functions better with lithium batteries, but I've been doing research and most people on here have said its not good with standard 350 components. The PO upgraded to a Ricks stator and Charlies Place points on the bike- does that make a difference?

When I put the battery in to test some stuff (and discovered that it was shot), my headlight, taillight, and blinkers worked. The horn clicks, but doesn't really engage- the one time it did, it sounded like a sad fart. I noticed that the neutral light wasn't on. But the engine is in neutral. Could it not be completely engaged? When I kickstart the bike, the drive cog doesn't move, so I know it's in neutral but maybe theres a feel for the switch that I'm not aware of? Currently, the shifter is off. If it's just a battery issue, that would be cool.

The other main concerns now are handling the clutch, points, and synching my carbs. There's a bunch of youtube videos on all that, so I guess I won't ask too much about it before I get there. Unless anyone has any pointers for things that are commonly ignored.

Also registration, insurance, and changing my license from FL to NY. As much as I want to just register the bike in FL cos no inspection required, the NYPD is kindof terrible about everything so I'd rather not get in trouble for something dumb (again).

On a side note, if anyone has any tips on making seatpans and sissybars, I'm down to hear. These are more aesthetic issues, but I've found in bicycle frame building; the weirder the frame, the less likely it is to be stolen. I figure it's basically function and logic, but if anyone has a lot of experience doing that let me know what's up.
 

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I’m of limited use with the 350, but I know the feeling of stalling near the end and want to keep this thread alive so we can keep you going! I searched for threads about the 350 and the battery tender you mentioned, but didn’t see anything especially foreboding. Honestly, with a modern battery, I’d be surprised (though I’ll happily stand corrected) if you could damage anything with it. Worst case scenario I can think of is that the tender charges too slow to be useful.

Common Motor’s videos on carb sync and point setting are great. Some will argue that you should set the gap first (a step that is skipped in the CMC videos), and I’ll admit that I set the gap and then the timing and it seems to work wonderfully. Be patient and the points are easy.

Clutch adjustment procedure is (forever, for always, it’s stickied because it’s a timeless classic :D) here:
http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/48-engine-discussion/8701-350-360-clutch-adjustment-procedure.html

Edit: forgot about the neutral light: I’ve seem them short in two places - mine broke apart inside the wire housing in the actual pigtail from the indicator light, so maybe a continuity test from the socket to the end of the wire (make sure you have the right pole). The other is the little pinch connector under the main drive cover - it gets super grimy and might need to be cleaned/trimmed for solid contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@spirograph thank you for getting back to me!
I added the link to the battery in my original post. I guess my main concern would be is a lithium battery less efficient than an AGM battery? I guess I should do that soon, cos until I have a proper battery I can't set the points and checking electronics would be nicer with a charge.
I'll clean the contacts when I get home from work and see if there's continuity.
 

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I’m on an MB12U and it’s been rock solid - unfortunately it is a little tall, though it doesn’t matter as much to me with a stock seat. Have you checked out the dimensions for the BikeMaster AGM? They might vary a little. I’m wary of lithium because they overcharge easily, and the voltage regulation on our bikes isn’t as precise as newer electrical, and it’s easy to literally light a lithium battery on fire. You might look into a smaller battery with the same CCA - it won’t last as long trying to E-start, but it might fit better.
 

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Its possible that its between gears and not really in neutral. Put the shift lever on and push down 4 or 5 times at least. Then lift up on the lever until it just pops a little. If you have the new battery in it the green light should come on or at least flash. If not their might be an electrical problem to troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@cb350(k5)I checked the continuity of the connection from the neutral switch to the wire, put my battery back in, set the clutch and flicked around the shifter lever. I saw the neutral light flicker on for a second, but can't get it to come back. There might be a poor connection somewhere in the wire- the wiring was pretty poorly maintained by a PO. I know a lot was replaced, some wires go to nothing, it's all wrapped up with electrical tape. I guess I'll undo the tape, see what's up with the wires, order some Protect a wire sleeve and keep moving.
I've probably got another week before the bike is ready to go- not including registered and everything- so for now I have the old battery in to test electrical stuff. It floats around 8.5v. Is there a danger in that?
 

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The low voltage shouldn't hurt anything just testing bulbs etc. Getting the right gear without the engine running can be tricky at times.
 
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