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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't have access to welding kit. I do have a pillar drill, taps and dies etc.

I'm thinking that I'll saw the stub off flush, file the face flat, then JB Weld a suitable bolt into place, after grinding down the bolt head to make it flat and thinner.

Or dismantle the unit, drill the base and fit a bolt from the inside.

Or is there something more elegant that can be done to extend the existing stub of thread ?

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You could cut and file it off flat, then drill and tap for a slightly smaller stud (like an intake manifold or exhaust stud).
 

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Not sure this would work but you could possibly put a short section of thin wall tubing over the existing bolt, put a new section of bolt in the end of the tubing and jb weld it all together. Another possible would be if you had a tap set tap a short section instead of or along with gluing.
 

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replace the gauge.
 

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You might take a piece of rod a little larger than the stud . Cut it off twice the length of the stud sticking out. Drill and tap it to fit then put it on the broken stud with some lock tight. Then put a new stud into the top half.

Bill
 

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Those gauges aren't sealed so there is a good chance metal shaving will get inside and cause problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks for support, got me thinking.

There is a metal sleeve that fits over the stud, forms the centre of the rubber mount for the instrument.

It's just occurred to me that I could replace this metal sleeve using an M6 rivnut screwed onto the broken stud, then screw a short piece of M6 stud into the other end, to take the washer and domed nut that retain the rubber mount.

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I'm trying to fix the same problem with my Sloper speedo. I'm looking at this, a threaded male/female connector/spacer/standoff. I'm not sure of the height I'll need until the replacement instrument seal arrives and I can determine the fit. This type connector will also replace the two rearmost mounts for the exhaust heat shield to muffler mounting bosses. McMaster- Carr is awesome, they even have the proper bolts for those mounts!

https://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-spacers/=1cua8hy
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think that the M6 rivnut is going to work out fine. A sleeved nut would have been even better, but as I have a bag of these rivnuts in the shed I'm going to try this.

Will obviously have to trim it to length, and get creative with the washer that retains the rubber mount, but it looks promising.

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Personally, I think you're on the right track, Richard. It isn't as if a lot of force or stress is on that fastener anyway - as long as it's tight enough to avoid the acorn nut coming off from vibration, you'll be good.
 

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Personally, I think you're on the right track, Richard. It isn't as if a lot of force or stress is on that fastener anyway - as long as it's tight enough to avoid the acorn nut coming off from vibration, you'll be good.
Maybe a dab of blue Loctite as well. The best solutions are what we already have on hand. If you've got a box of rivnuts in your shed what other treasures must you have? Impressive.
 

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The best solutions are what we already have on hand
My Dad taught me that at a very young age. He always had a few small drawers on his toolboxes for nuts, bolts and fasteners of all types that he salvaged from various situations, and a larger metal tub (actually, a gallon paint thinner can with the side cut out of it and the edges rolled to avoid cuts) full of nuts and bolts... we could always find something when we needed it, never failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Maybe a dab of blue Loctite as well. The best solutions are what we already have on hand. If you've got a box of rivnuts in your shed what other treasures must you have? Impressive.
There's a story attached to those rivnuts.

On the K7 175, the ride hand side air cleaner is attached to the frame by two M6 x 12 screws, into tapped holes in the frame.


When I was taking the K4 apart, I found that the bottom air cleaner bolt was as above, but the top one was an M6 x 36, which passed right through a hole drilled in the frame, secured with a nut at the far end, adjacent to the battery box. I assumed that this was a previous owners solution to a stripped thread in the frame, so I set a rivnut in the hole so that I could use a normal M6 x 12 screw.


Later on, I looked at the CMNSL schematic, and discovered that in fact the M6 x 36 nut and bolt was a factory fit. I can't imagine why …


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorted !

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Stainless stud and cut down stainless M6 rivnut.
 
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