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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi,

I've got a cl175 with a nasty fade to it, but I like the patina, the top sides of all the painted surfaces are pinkish white, the sides and protected areas are red. I have one side cover original to the bike, which looks like this. I had to buy a replacement left side cover (so it goes with the CL). It's also red but the paint is much more robust. I would like to make them match.

not sure how well you can see in this photo due to the bad lighting, but its clear that the top of the tank is a lot lighter than the sides. I would like to fade areas of the newer red side cover to match if possible. I figure i'm either going to need to use some chemical, or put it out in the sun for 47 years.

IMG_5770.jpg

p.s. I am not building a cafe racer, i just put the seat on momentarily for laughs
 

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Beat me to it, I was going to suggest Arizona.
 

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Ultra Violet light bulb? set it under one of those for a week or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
while we're making wild suggestions, I did think to attach it a weather balloon but i'm not sure how i'd get it back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
here's a better pic that I took last night. Unfortunately I do all my work in a parking garage with fluorescent lights, so pics are pretty bad.

IMG_5815.jpg
 

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yeah, it's mostly silver basecoat showing on top now... lots of patina, for sure
If you want to reduce the red and get closer to the base-coat, one way would be to use T-cut or other similar colour restorer and plenty of elbow grease perhaps ?
Easy to test on an inconspicuous part of the cover, or the inside even, depending on how it's been painted.
 

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you could try wet sanding it to wear down the top red coat
 

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Otherwise a good paint shop should be able to match that silver base coat by laying on a thin coat using an airbrush?
 

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Wetsanding "to match" will only work if that side panel was painted the same way (silver base w/ candy clear)... BUT BEWARE.. not only will you be removing the top layers.. when you brake through to the base.. if it is "metallic".. you can alter its appearance.. also.. the base will be more exposed..
Do some research.. go online.. call some places... send pics with what u want.. maybe someone can shoot that side cover and get it close
 

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All kidding aside lay it in the back window of a car,Its amazing how fast things sun fade.
 

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I'm sorry I forgot that's the land of dismal gray skies,well if you know one of those indoor farmers with the 24/7 high uv light set ups nudge nudge wink wink:D
 

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I wasn't kidding about trying a UV light. you're trying to achieve photodegradation. shoot UV radiation at it.........
 

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The paint Honda used for the candy appearance never held up against sunlight. Some colors were worse than others. Honda did offer touch up kits, but they didn't work very well because the 'translucency' of the top coat determined how much color the part had. It is very difficult to replicate. Trying to match it 40+ years later would be as hard as re-creating the stock look. Just enjoy the bike for what it is, an original piece of classic motorcycling history. When the rain quits we should get the bikes together for a ride.
 

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Hardest thing is to find the correct paint, knowing that the original color is faded & won't match exactly to a new spraying. (I found a Silver metallic basecoat & Candy Panther Yellow in the aerosol cans for both) I believe I used Duplicolor metallic brand spray cans, but you can also order these old colors from VMR or Marble Motors online.

I had great success doing this exact thing on a CL100 side cover.
IMG_9216.jpg

What I did:
Epoxy reinforce/fix old plastic tabs with surfboard epoxy & fiberglass.
Sand down the red lightly to create a scuff for paint to stick using medium-fine sandpaper.
Use the Silver metallic base coat for a few coats.
Then add yellow paint light & heavy in ceratain spots to match.
After drying, note the darkness of the paint can... Heavy spray layering will change the overall color quick. This combined with anal-detail made me redo the ratio of silver to yellow a few times. Aim for a light coating since the bike as a whole will have a similar sun fade already.
Add a few top coats using the base coat silver. Mist the spray rather than creating hard lines (i.e. taped off areas)
Do the feathering of both colors endlessly until happy.
Do not clear coat after. This will apply a gloss layer topcoat which will create a mismatch.

My only regret was that I did it in the backyard wind, so light dust added a texture on the paint which is inconsistent to opposite side.

Good Luck.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wow Rob that turned out really great! This is exactly the kind of pics/explanation I needed I actually Ended up selling the bike that I had pictured above. I do now have another CL175 that has really nice paint, however one of the side covers has a nasty crack. Did you find that the fiberglass and resin worked well and bonded to the plastic when you did the repairs?
 

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i guess it would depend on what type of fiberglass repair you use. I live by the beach in CA & the surf industry stuff has worked great for me in every application i'vet tried over the past 20 years. I used epoxy resin that you mix with a catalyst typically. But the solar curing type works too. (as long as you have a sanding resin which adds a bit of wax into the resin, versus a sticky laminate resin mixture that gums up sandpaper). If you use the laminate resin to bond some fiberglass cloth to the inside after a light sanding, this will stick great. From there, you'd be able to see the weaving after it dries unless you add a top coat of the wax/sanding resin mixture on top of the dried weave base layer. I don't bother with this step a on the concealed inside sections, but yes on outside.

They make a polyurethane version of the surf resins as well as an epoxy type. Both would work
 
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