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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
doesn't LOOK like rocket science but i just thought i'd ask before digging in. specifically-the dust seal, bearing retainer and bearing(from the left side of the diagram of course...). i'm repainting this hub and want to get it down to one single piece. any of those special tools need for the bearing retainer? does the dust seal just pull out with brut force? again tools? and as you can see my hub has some slightly different bearing retainer marks. turn it counter clockwise once dust seal is off?
 

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OK, the 4 "slots" on the retainer are pretty obvious - they're where you put the tool in.
Less obvious are the two little round "holes" - those are called "stakes", and you have to drill those out, or you'll never get the retainer out.

To spin the retainer, you can either look for the special tool, or you can get something called a pin wrench, available many places for cheap.

It's hard to tell from the photo, but maybe those stakes have already been drilled out??
Can you tell, Steve??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
definitely looks like this has been taken apart in the past and those "stakes" have been messed with. you lost me on the drilling though... drilled out? apart from that i will look for a pin wrench tomorrow and give it a try. thanks bill. that's your bike thats up on bikeexif.com, isn't it? nice...
 

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A cheap tool anyone can make is a piece of flatbar (steel) that fits tightly inside of the little grooves, and is the exact length as the outside diameter of the retainer. Works like a charm.

You can simply put a crescent wrench on it or weld on a long piece of scrap.

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Yeah, "stakes" are generally made by using a punch on the interface (crack) between the retainer and the hub - this locks them into place, sort of a poor-man's safety wire. Normally they'd have to be drilled out, to get rid of the "blended" metal that the punch leaves.....
Does that make any sense at all????

Thanks for the comments on the 450 - here's a Project Log, if you want all the lurid details and a bunch of hi-res photos - http://home.comcast.net/~tbpmusic/id54.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok. now what...


how do i get these damn bearings out?
 

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Sensei
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If you look at the parts drawing, (part#6) you have to pry/force this "tube" sideways to expose the bearings race so you can drift it out with a punch (from the opposite side of the wheel).... The three small tabs will bend doing this but easily rebend for reuse.... Once one and the spacer come out, the second bearing removal is easy.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks.

by punch, i hope you meant flathead screw driver. nothing looks damaged, bearing popped out after a few whacks! now the other side...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sorry for all the posts, but it's all about the small victories for me. now on the rear hub, UGGG!

expect questions galore. you guys are awesome and i know i'll succeed!
 

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Be sure you post up how you re lace and true the wheels. I'll be doing the same thing here in the near future. I've got my new spokes and I'll probably start that part of the restoration after I get the motor installed in the frame.
 

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MNellis said:
Be sure you post up how you re lace and true the wheels. I'll be doing the same thing here in the near future. I've got my new spokes and I'll probably start that part of the restoration after I get the motor installed in the frame.
Ditto that! My front spokes are rusty and the rear are beyond salvation too. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok guys. rear wheel...

one bearing is out and the middle spacer, the side that the brake cover-covers. the other bearing on the other side is protected by an oil seal? it has four holes in it. does that spin out with some wacky honda tool? or should i just start banging on it and the bearing behind it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i just read in the annotated manual about the special tool- "Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer Wrench." crap. what are my options here? what is a good substitute?
 

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You could try a length of bar stock with holes drilled/tapped or welded for stubby bolts at the appropriate distance to go into two of the holes....
 
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