awesome write up. I tried this last night, but I'm still not getting it I think. I put the key in the ignition to on (so as to see the "N" light indicator on.) And I tried this procedure but the light never came on. So I thought maybe I should put the switch to "run" again without actually starting the bike. It worked the light came on at LT. Good. So I rotated the engine and the light stayed on all the way to "F." Not good right? Aside from that I'm not really sure how you adjust the left side only on the points aside from setting the gap. Can you explain that to me?
so then, you're saying my timing should be good if the light comes on when I see the LT line up. It comes on right at that point, not before. It does stay on, but I shouldn't worry about that as you say.
This still perplexes me because if the timing is fine on my bike (and the carbs clean, gaps on the points are good, points are clean, petcock has no obstructions, cam chain tensioner is good...then what could it be that would cause a bike not to idle at all?)
Sorry, I meant the LF and F marks. I was going by the manual for setting the gaps to within .012 and .016 in and I thought that was it for them. Since I'm totally new to this I'm sure my confusion is apparent. I'll try again and noting everything in this thread to guide my efforts.
Ok, so if I have both gaps set at .014 currently, and checking the left side the light comes on, then the left side should be fine and I just need readjustment on the right side (using the light to be certain), correct?
If you static time your Twin, but notice the strobe isn’t showing proper advance, then the advancer is goofy.
Now, lots of stuff can go wrong with advancer units.
They can get dirty and stick - they can stick open, closed, in-between, or just be “sticky”......
And this usually happens when it’s been running and is very hot, too hot to mess with it, or even check it.
The springs can get worn out - that would cause the advancer to kick in too soon, at a lower rpm.
Some folks shorten the springs slightly, but there’s the danger of too much tension on the springs, which means the advancer would kick in too late, at a higher rpm, and might not advance fully at all.
I’ve seen folks manipulate the little tabs in this photo - usually they add a bit of shim inside it so the tab physically stops the advancer weights at a particular point.
This is better than the shop manual.
So if when doing the strobe timing and it won't fall in between the advance marks, instead of trying to manipulate the tabs or the springs is replacing the advancer unit or just the springs an option, are they available from honda?
Ok...I pulled out my old XS650 advancer unit, and my already disassembled CB360 advancer to compare springs. I'll be damned if the springs are not identical in every way. So in theory you should be able to order a new pair of advancer springs (C-clips included) from http://www.mikesxs.com for $8.
Heres 2 pics, the advancer and spring on the left is from my XS650. The advancer and spring on the right is from my CB360:
I just want to thank you for this post and your help. Got my bike idling this weekend! It was certainly a combination of the carbs, points, and timing that wasn't allowing it to idle before. I used the test light method, rechecked my gaps and set them accordingly. The right cylinder was advanced, now it's perfect.
Only problem I have now is the carbs air inlet valve sometimes sticks so I have to open the throttle when I give her a first kick, but it does idle.
Yes, and if you can't get the timing correct on the right cylinder without going outside the allowable point gap limit, compensate by re-setting the left cylinder gap, then reset the left cylinder timing with the breaker plate, then reset the right cylinder timing with the point gap again.
Alright so I have some basic questions before I get to replacing my points and such:
1. Should you drain the oil before this procedure? I remember my first (only so far) attempt at this and my dad was not too happy to see Exxon Valdez on his driveway. I was pulling away at the stator cover and found it to be "stuck", a tug later and oil leaked like mad.
2. When the tick mark and the "F" or "LT" would line up, the static light came on, but it would stay on for I think a full rotation before shutting off again. Is that normal?
Correct. By changing the point gap for the right cylinder. Plate stays screwed down tight. When the timing is set, check to be sure the gap is within allowable specs. If it's not, you'll have to re-set the other point gap and re-time the left cylinder by moving the plate so that you can get the right cylinder correctly timed within the allowable point gap. Fortunately, this rarely happens. I love thumpers - they're so simple.
So I am in the process of timing the CB360 with the Hondaman Ignition Kit installed. I set the gap to 0.013" and I hooked up the timing light to begin static timing. I unplugged the spark plugs, turned on the electricals and started to crank the engine. My timing light is not turning on at all. Do I have to disconnect the Hondaman Ignition to do set the timing?
I got word that the Hondaman Kit should not interfere with timing, and that it should stay connected for this procedure. I am scratching my head on this one :?
Here be some pics of the setup (spark plugs are in because I took these after I gave up)
New Points installed and gap set at 0.013" (green wire is Hondaman Ignition ground wire):
How they are connected at the bottom to the yellow and blue wires:
Thanks! Yes the bike is set to "RUN" :lol: I will try insulating that green wire or moving it someplace. I don't think it contacts the spring, but it would be a good idea to try moving it someplace else. I have contacted Mark about this and he asked for the pictures posted above. I will keep you posted when I get another shot at this (it is currently pouring out!).
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