[Hawkeyefxr]

I noticed my engine was lazy to start cold, a squirt of an oil can in each plug hole and it started perfectly, the bike has stood for some years so i'm thinking gummed up rings, no problem.
Until i came to strip the engine down, got as far as cracking the head bolts and the two inner right hand bolts will not move. That's to say yes they crack at initial twist like the other six but they are seized in the crankcase, i have tightened and loosed them but you can feel the bolt (7-8in long) just twisting.
I can't see why they are seized as they have been splashed with oil all their lives.
Anyone got any ideas on this, applying heat is out as you can't get to that section of the crankcases.

 

[DD23]

Welcome.....

From memory the 4 inner head bolts are naked and open to all the water, salt and road crap.

You have access to an oxy acetylene torch ? Dam predictive text.....

Heat the crank case rather than the bolts.

This is probably Gunna end in tragidy....

Heat and lots of please God's...

It would be an idea to tighten all the head bolts back up before you try...

I assume engine is still in frame ?

You can try several sessions of thermal shock, heating and sudden quenching....then final heat and gentle torque, thick about water as lub/flush.....

I wish you luck.

Ask yourself is there any other method of freeing off stuck piston rings ?

ATF and acetone seems good but where to get acetone in UK ?

Heat also can be your friend.....

How is compression ?

Bike been in storage for years, hope you also checked for stuck valves, clutch was stuck ? Yes ?

 

[Hawkeyefxr]

Welcome.....

From memory the 4 inner head bolts are naked and open to all the water, salt and road crap.

You have access to an oxy acetylene torch ? Dam predictive text.....

Heat the crank case rather than the bolts.

This is probably Gunna end in tragidy....

Heat and lots of please God's...

It would be an idea to tighten all the head bolts back up before you try...

I assume engine is still in frame ?

You can try several sessions of thermal shock, heating and sudden quenching....then final heat and gentle torque, thick about water as lub/flush.....

I wish you luck.

Ask yourself is there any other method of freeing off stuck piston rings ?

ATF and acetone seems good but where to get acetone in UK ?

Heat also can be your friend.....

How is compression ?

Bike been in storage for years, hope you also checked for stuck valves, clutch was stuck ? Yes ?

Hi, thanks for the reply, i have done the 'please Gods" but he was not listening or just **** off lol.
All eight bolts screw in the the top half of the crankcase not all the way through so no corrosion from water has taken place.
Tried re tightening and loosening again

Heating the crankcases is out as the case would be damaged before the heat was where it's needed.
Compression is 125 psi cold 150psi wetted with oil down plug hole.

I will be assembling the engine and trying you idea of Acetone but with Reddex as that's an old additive for stopping piston ring gum.

Off to look for Acetone now. 👍

 

[Hawkeyefxr]

Forgot to ask what mixture of Acetone and ATF would you use?

 

[DD23]

Check out CMSNL.com to see which side of the centre head bolts have the built on seals.

If you don't want to head the casing, chill the bolts...but heating the casing the casing will expand the alloy a bit.

Back in a moment...

 

[DD23]

The left centre head bolts, flywheel side, have the built on seals and usually don't give trouble coming out, but can and do leak oil.

The right hand side centre head bolts, clutch side, don't have a built on seal, so are prone to water, road salt and crap. Draw your own conclusion on that one.

I have come across this problem many times, people use sealer when reassembling, sealer down the c/case holes will burst the casing with half the hole sitting on the sump floor. I have seen this many times. Mr honda must be spinning in his grave, or laughing his head off.

I can't get acetone so use the redex way with some heat, or strip the engine down, bolt dependent.

Heat is going to be your friend which ever method you use.

Local intence heat if your removing the cylinders, much less intence if your not.

Any signs of the head, cylinders and/or crank cases being taken apart before, such as sealer on the centre head bolts where they go into the c/case, or on the horizontal c/case joint ?

Honda bond is light tan brown ish, cylinder base oe gasket is green as is the clutch cover gasket.

Do you know anybody into home wine making, 80 percent alcohol ?

Do not drink that, you will go blind or die!!!!!!!!!!!! Even getting it on your skin will cause trouble, so be warned !!!!!!!!!

 

[Hawkeyefxr]

Thanks for the info about the bolts and seals.
Acetone is easily available over here (Nail varnish cleaner) though i will get the 100% pure stuff.
I'm pretty sure the engine has never been apart, the top mounting plate bolts are like brand new when taken out, plus the mileage like a said.

 

[DD23]

Oh brill, when you get some please can you post the suppliers address, I would like some.

I wonder if you can get some ether, castor oil and iso propyl nitrate ?

No, I am not a terrorist.

I am UK based.

 

[Hawkeyefxr]

Get it on Amazon, 1ltr bottle.
Castor oil not so good, smells fantastic when burnt in a engine but does not mix well with mineral oil. It was used in my time in racing engines, the smell is mmmmm lol
Will try the Acetone first as i have some coming