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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have restored this CB200t and had it running but then let it sit for a few months while I moved. When I started it back up it ran once and even drove it around the block. I did notice the starter button stuck and the starter kept going after the engine started which I turned off the engine right away. I rebuilt the switch for the starter button and put it all together again but now when I push the starter button to start the headlight goes out and it does not kick over the starter. I rechecked all of the wiring multiple times, replaced the starter solenoid and bypassed the solenoid to make sure the starter still was working and it does still work. It does have a new battery that is charged up. I have double checked the switches and all the wiring is good and connections are good. This makes no sense to me at all. I am stumped as to why it is bike in no longer starting. Any suggestions from the Honda Twins community are greatly appreciated.
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Look for a short between the starter button and the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I double checked all of the wiring with my multimeter and they are have continuity. The switch is also working per my meter and still the bike is not starting.
 

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The headlight is supposed to go out when you press the start button, to allow more current for the starter. If the headlight is on when you turn on the ign switch then you have 12v to the start button on the black wire which it is supposed to have. So now check the yellow/red wire to the starter solenoid and see if you have 12v there. If not you have a contact (S2) in the switch not completing the circuit or there is an open between the switch and the start solenoid coil. If you have have 12v on the yellow/red wire then check for a bad ground on the other (black?) wire on the solenoid coil. You could also have a bad solenoid, check by jumping the 2 small wires with a spare battery or 12v charger, you should hear the solenoid pull in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The headlight is supposed to go out when you press the start button, to allow more current for the starter. If the headlight is on when you turn on the ign switch then you have 12v to the start button on the black wire which it is supposed to have. So now check the yellow/red wire to the starter solenoid and see if you have 12v there. If not you have a contact (S2) in the switch not completing the circuit or there is an open between the switch and the start solenoid coil. If you have have 12v on the yellow/red wire then check for a bad ground on the other (black?) wire on the solenoid coil. You could also have a bad solenoid, check by jumping the 2 small wires with a spare battery or 12v charger, you should hear the solenoid pull in.

What do you mean by a "bad ground " on the other (black?) wire on the solenoid wire. How do I check for that?
 

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Every circuit needs a ground path back to the battery negative terminal, if not it's a "bad ground". If you have 12v between the yellow/red wire and battery ground when pressing starter button, which you didn't confirm here, then the coil inside the solenoid is bad or the path to ground is open. Also explain exactly how you by passed the solenoid. Do you have a multimeter, cause you will need one to solve this problem or diagnose any other electrical issue? You only state the connections look good, but I'm not sure how you determined that. What is voltage on the new battery, some new batteries are bad or ruined during initial charge. Sorry for all the questions, but they are needed to solve what IMHO is a simple diagnosis that should be solvable in less than 5 mins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Every circuit needs a ground path back to the battery negative terminal, if not it's a "bad ground". If you have 12v between the yellow/red wire and battery ground when pressing starter button, which you didn't confirm here, then the coil inside the solenoid is bad or the path to ground is open. Also explain exactly how you by passed the solenoid. Do you have a multimeter, cause you will need one to solve this problem or diagnose any other electrical issue? You only state the connections look good, but I'm not sure how you determined that. What is voltage on the new battery, some new batteries are bad or ruined during initial charge. Sorry for all the questions, but they are needed to solve what IMHO is a simple diagnosis that should be solvable in less than 5 mins.

I did check the continuity of the wires with a multimeter. I did get 11.7 volts on the battery and down the yellow/red wire. I did check the solenoid like you suggested and it does click when I touch the two wires to power.
 

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Ok, so the solenoid has been clicking all this time when you pressed the start button. Then the next step is to verify 12v on one large terminal of the solenoid switch ( the one that goes directly back to the positive side of the battery.) This should have 12v at all times. If so then check the opposite terminal (the one leading to the starter) for 12v only when the starter button is pushed. If no voltage, you have a bad solenoid, if you have 12v then you have a bad starter, simple as that. By the way the battery should have 12.6v when it is charged. Your battery sounds like it is currently under charged or it isn't capable of producing the required AH to spin the motor even if everything else is working correctly. Also make sure the ground cable on the negative side of the battery has a clean connection to the frame. If bike has been repainted or especially powder coated the grounding points will need the paint removed, as contact is just as critical on the grounding points as the positive points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, so the solenoid has been clicking all this time when you pressed the start button. Then the next step is to verify 12v on one large terminal of the solenoid switch ( the one that goes directly back to the positive side of the battery.) This should have 12v at all times. If so then check the opposite terminal (the one leading to the starter) for 12v only when the starter button is pushed. If no voltage, you have a bad solenoid, if you have 12v then you have a bad starter, simple as that. By the way the battery should have 12.6v when it is charged. Your battery sounds like it is currently under charged or it isn't capable of producing the required AH to spin the motor even if everything else is working correctly. Also make sure the ground cable on the negative side of the battery has a clean connection to the frame. If bike has been repainted or especially powder coated the grounding points will need the paint removed, as contact is just as critical on the grounding points as the positive points.

Rizingson thank you for the valuable insight. I did figure out the problem and it was was a bad ground and I even found another wire that needed some repair but its all good now and the bike started right up. Going for a little ride tomorrow and I can't wait.
 
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