Honda Twins banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Right cylinder bogging down . thoroughly cleans carbs . moved onto points .Noticed right points sparking erracticly and excessively strong spark .Have replaced condenser and points. checked the coils with a multi-meter and they seem ok. Removed advance mechanism and the springs seem weak (doesn't spring all the way back) Could this be the problem and how to fix.? thanks Kanga
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Excessively strong spark? Trade your points with one of the many folks with weak spark and it’ll all balance out... :D

Kidding. Is the new condenser still grounded to the frame? If you’re getting ferocious sparks through the points, you might have a weak ground and the engine is grounding through the points instead of the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks ,is the condenser grounded by the earth wire (black wire)
or where it bolts onto the frame that the coils are in? (sorry bit of a novice)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
it is only happening at right points..If the there was a weak ground ,would it show up at both points?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,510 Posts
If you swap the points and coil wires at the condenser, does the arcing move to the left, or remain on the rt?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thanks Doode I will give that a go in the morning and let you know.It is 8.30 pm here
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
thanks ,is the condenser grounded by the earth wire (black wire)
or where it bolts onto the frame that the coils are in? (sorry bit of a novice)
Black wires should be battery power, not grounds; grounds should be green, usually a fairly dark green. If, that is, the wiring is still original. The stock type dual condenser gets ground through the contact with the frame, through the chassis to the heavy cable at the transmission mount. A poor ground to the dual condenser should have similar effects on both points, though.

If you haven't, pull the bolt that holds the battery cable to the frame and make sure the terminal is clean, and also the mating surfaces of the engine hanger and transmission case. It will just run better if you do this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
hi doode I swapped over the coils and condenser . The bike won't start when I do that... does that mean anything .? Also checked wiring from points to coil and condenser .. that is good .. I have a new condenser . The spark is arcing really badly only on right points
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
should have said the bike still runs on the right cylinder but boggs down at low RPMs .The left cylinder work fine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,510 Posts
It would be coils and points wire swap, at the condenser, not coils and condenser.

Is you ignition timing spot on? Maybe confirm tdc on the flywheel positioning is correct. To quickly eyeball it, I remove a plug and stick a long straight piece of metal(screw driver, Allen wrench etc) in the plug hole and watch the ride and fall. Maybe your rotor is slightly off and giving you this issue?

Your timing the rt side to "F", correct? Not T.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
On my bike the right coil has the blue wire the left coil yellow wire. I plugged left(yellow) points into the right coil(blue) and right (blue)points into left(yellow)coil. Swapped condenser wires over. I thought that would be a coil swap .The bike wouldn't start at all so I swapped them back. The arcing of the points causes the right plug to eventually not burn the fuel and when I remove it it is wet. put another plug in and it is ok for a few minutes and the same thing happens. though a new condenser would be the fix but hasn't helped . . I am sure the timing is correct. don't think rotor is off as the right cylinder is timed to the Front Left mark and works fine. Cleaned all the connections. Appreciate the help . I also did a coil test with Muti meter and they were both ok.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,510 Posts
Is it a typo when you say the right cyl is timed to the Front Left mark?
By front left mark, do you mean LF? Should be F, without the L
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
yes sorry my mistake. What is happening in this video is the same with my right points and I think a new condenser is the fix.. I replaced mine . now I am beginning to think the new one is faulty. wasn't able to get one here . have to order another one from the States
Can i swap the condenser leads between points .?thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
On my bike the right coil has the blue wire the left coil yellow wire. I plugged left(yellow) points into the right coil(blue) and right (blue)points into left(yellow)coil. Swapped condenser wires over. I thought that would be a coil swap .The bike wouldn't start at all so I swapped them back.
Umm ... you also have to move the spark plug wires, or the bike will not start.
The arcing of the points causes the right plug to eventually not burn the fuel and when I remove it it is wet. put another plug in and it is ok for a few minutes and the same thing happens. though a new condenser would be the fix but hasn't helped . . I am sure the timing is correct. don't think rotor is off as the right cylinder is timed to the Front Left mark and works fine. Cleaned all the connections. Appreciate the help . I also did a coil test with Muti meter and they were both ok.
So, the points arcing is causing a weak spark on the right side. It could be a failing coil, but I've never seen one fail in quite this way.

And, yes, you can swap just the condenser leads, to find out if that is the actual problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
G'day Rick.. didn't realise had to swap spark plug wire so.. thankyou GOOD NEWS swapped coils without any difference at point THEN swapped condenser plugs over and the " mad spark "shifted to left points. This is new Honda genuine part condenser. I think the old did the same thing but I am about to put the old one back... apart from being faulty condenser where else should I be looking? Thanks again doode and Rick really appreciate your help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
So, two condensers, old and new, seem to exhibit the same problem. That means you have two good condensers, and two bad ones, so you can bolt up both dual condensers, and use the good ones, leaving the weak ones disconnected. Worth a test, anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Hi Rick the old condenser is fine . and for the first time since I started repairing the bike it is firing beautifully on 2 cylinders . When I first got the bike going it was bogging down on right cylinder so I replaced condenser. When in fact it was right Carburettor float .. which you diagnosed for me earlier...( I probably bumped it while cleaning carbs ) thankyou for all the advice you have given me during the rebuild including replacing the gear shafts and clutch. Kanga
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
Glad to be of help, as, I assume, the others here who helped explain things. Stick around, and you may do the same for the next new quy:thumbsup:
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top