[vancouvercafe]

Trying to figure out why my battery isn't charging on a 72 Honda CB350. (not getting a 13+v reading while reving)
I want to test the AC volt output on the stator, but my manual isnt here yet. I'm just wondering what readings I should be getting. it is a 3 wire, should I be getting readings across all three?
any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[vancouvercafe]

when I take readings across the 3 wires, in AC volts i get. 20v, 15v, 3v. (sorry can't remember which wire is which) that is at idle. when i rev it the 20v and 15v go up to 50v+ around the 5k rpm mark. but the 3v only maxes out at about 9v.

I'm new to stators and just wondering if those numbers should be all 20v at idle, or if its normal for one to be lower.

 

[66Sprint]

Hopefully, you are reading between pairs of the stator wires, not from any one of them to chassis ground........Your largest voltage reading should be between the Yellow and Pink wires, and 20 to 50VAC indicates a good stator...... The lower readings are simply because you are reading across less windings...... If you aren't charging the battery with this much output, either the battery is bad (won't charge) or something is amiss in the regulator/rectifier area....UNPLUG the regulator and see if the voltage (DC) at the battery wires increases (if it does, bad reg. if it doesn't, bad rect.)...Don't rev TOO high as it is possible to throw 25+V at the battery without the reg in service.....

 

[vancouvercafe]

thanks so much for the reply.
I just got the bike and am trying to work my way through it
I will test the regulator/rectifier. It isn't the oem one for the year of the bike, it is a combo one from a newer bike not sure which model though.

I put the battery on a trickle charger after the bike wouldnt start and it fully charged back up and I can run and start the bike no problem, just won't charge.

I will take a good look at the r/r today.

It's just good to know about the outputs from the stator, I was worried about the low number.

 

[66Sprint]

The disadvantage of the "modern" combination rect/regs is you can't properly test (isolate) the separate functions......If anything goes "bad', you must replace the whole unit without actually knowing which area/function failed (or why)....Personally, I prefer the original two unit set-ups..........

 

[Sonreir]

I just underwent a similar problem in my CJ360. Turned out to be a bad fuse (even though it looked good, it failed a continuity test).