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Discussion Starter #22
Man. Okay, things to think about. I knew they could rev higher (10k redline on the tach), but it sounds like it's crying for mercy after 6000rpm. I'll have to do some experimenting when I get it back on the road in March. With the vibration, I can make believe I'm getting a cheap massage. :)

Thanks again for your thoughts. Great stuff.
 

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IF you want to hear "crying for mercy", type Honda RC 149 into your search bar......This 125 cc engine would spin 20,500 RPM , produced 34 HP and would go 130 MPH......

OR Honda RC 166, OR RC 116 OR....Etc......

This is back in the mid 1960's.........Honda USED the lessons learned racing them......
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
This 125 cc engine would spin 20,500 RPM , produced 34 HP and would go 130 MPH

Holy crap!! I don't think I'd want to be in that saddle.

-edit-

Okay, I just searched as you suggested. A five cylinder 125cc! I'll say it again. Holy crap!
 

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My REAL point is that Honda was well aware of what the appropriate rev ranges were for its bikes.....
IF you keep yours below the redline, but in the upper revs, it will still perform properly and reliably......
They are designed to gallop, not just trot......
 

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With the vibration, I can make believe I'm getting a cheap massage. :)

Thanks again for your thoughts. Great stuff.
You should feel what's it like after a 600 mile ride, Ensenada Baja to Santa Clara CA. Every part of you is vibrating hours later :?:lol::lol:
One thing that may help is replace items 3 and 4 in this fiche. Those vibration dampeners harden up with age and transmit instead of dampening.
https://shop.westernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3640561&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1981&fveh=1699694
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Good to know about those dampeners. Thanks!
 

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Jim, I'm not sure what you mean by that. My comfort factor on this bike is in fifth at 3500-4000rpm. It seems like it's happy there, too. And I still feel like a twist of the throttle will get me moving as quickly as I need to. Are you saying it's more efficient or meant to be driven at 4k minimum most of the time?
Under 4k is "lugging" the engine and it isn't good for it. Most of these bikes are designed to be revved higher, don't be afraid to do it. It isn't a Harley.
Wow, I've been lugging my engine big time. I usually upshift at around 3000 rpm. At around 60 - 65 I think it is only revving at around 3500 to 3800 rpm in 5th gear. I may be mistaken, since I have only driven it that fast 3 to 4 times.

I will try to take it beyond 3000 before upshifting now. See how she does. Thanks for the info!

Is 3500 to 4000 rpm normal at around 55 to 65 mph in top gear?
 

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Is 3500 to 4000 rpm normal at around 55 to 65 mph in top gear?
Unless the speedo is no longer as accurate as it once was (and they weren't perfect even when new), the overall gearing - trans ratios, primary drive ratio and final drive (chain and sprockets) ratio - are all predetermined and the rpm range you see in each respective gear is what it will be. Unlike any version of automatic trans or drive, where there is some slippage (except for modern cars with lock-up torque convertors), manual transmissions do not vary and will always read the appropriate rpm for the gear selected.
 

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Speedo reading fast, tach reading slow, different sprockets from stock can all be making the readings off.
In 5th gear at 55 mph you should be hitting @4800 and at 65 a little over 5600.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
...
One thing that may help is replace items 3 and 4 in this fiche. Those vibration dampeners harden up with age and transmit instead of dampening.
https://shop.westernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3640561&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1981&fveh=1699694
Looking at that diagram in the fiche, I have a couple of questions. For part #4, it indicates two required, as pictured. But for part #3, it shows four required, though the pic shows only two. Is that a mistake? If not, where would the other two go?

Also, just how involved is it to replace those parts? Or another way to ask is how likely am I to screw something up and not get everything back together again? Does it really require pretty much dismantling the whole handlebar and tree assembly as it appears to?
 

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Fiche is in error, 2 of each part number needed.
Pretty simple to replace. Remove #'s 11, 12 & 13, lift assembly up and change the rubbers. Reinsert and tighten. No need to remove the bars from the holders, #2, unless you run out of cable movement room.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Good to know. lThanks. I may have a follow-up question or two when I take a closer look when the bike comes out of hibernation in the Spring. :)
 

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With the vibration, I can make believe I'm getting a cheap massage.


Thanks again for your thoughts. Great stuff.
You should feel what's it like after a 600 mile ride, Ensenada Baja to Santa Clara CA. Every part of you is vibrating hours later
lol:

One thing that may help is replace items 3 and 4 in this fiche. Those vibration dampeners harden up with age and transmit instead of dampening.
https://shop.westernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3640561&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1981&fveh=1699694
Where can someone buy these #3, #4 & #11??? Mine were completely hardened with age and completely unsafe - I did find a way to tighten them up, but I would rather replace them correctly!
 

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You can try partzilla. I have also been able to find parts on Ebay by typing the part # into ebay search bar.
 

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Best way to find that out is to search by part number for each part, provided at the link Jim posted. Here are some quick search results for each part number, one of the rubber mounts is available at a few different places (one of which has the washers as well so maybe combine shipping)

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/90535-292-000

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/53133-385-000

https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-53133-385-000-RUB-HANDLE-CUSHION/dp/B00I87IQ7Q

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/honda/53133-385-000/b680436

https://4into1.com/genuine-honda-handlebar-rubber-damper-53133-237-680-cb350-cl350-cb360-cb450-cl450-cb500t/

And you could also check those part numbers at David Silver Spares as they don't show up in Google searches very often but many times have the parts
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Also, check your local Honda dealer if you have one. As mentioned above, all you need is the part number from the fiche. I ordered a few parts from my local dealer and I'll pick them up to avoid shipping costs.
 

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Also, check your local Honda dealer if you have one. As mentioned above, all you need is the part number from the fiche. I ordered a few parts from my local dealer and I'll pick them up to avoid shipping costs.
I was also able to get some honda parts from the local marina because there is some crossover in parts from Honda's outboard motors.
 

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That would be a valuable cross reference. The only part I've ever been able to reference successfully to Honda Marine was the cork fuel cap seal from my old CM400, it was used on outboards, scooters and even Honda generators.
 
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