They're probably just rusted in the dampers - they're like studs that bolt into the sprocket and then the stud-like posts slip into the damper bushingsOK so before I start smashing things how are these in here?? I already ordered NOS replacements...
Thanks-
They're probably just rusted in the dampers - they're like studs that bolt into the sprocket and then the stud-like posts slip into the damper bushings
I can't see the picture, but it sounds like you're trying to remove the rear sprocket studs from the drive cushes. That's the easy part, wait until you try to remove the drive cushes. More on that in a minute. Use Kroil or PB Blaster on the studs and tap them out from the back. For the drive cushes, a 1" bi-metal hole saw in a drill press is the perfect size to remove them. You can use a hand drill if you're careful, I've done it.OK so before I start smashing things how are these in here?? I already ordered NOS replacements...
Thanks-
View attachment 222410
I'm about to remove the cushions from a CL350 rear hub, how do you keep the hole saw centered in the bushing?For the drive cushes, a 1" bi-metal hole saw in a drill press is the perfect size to remove them. You can use a hand drill if you're careful, I've done it.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Clamp your hub down firm in a drill press , if available. Before I had a drill press, I eyeballed it with a hand drill. Just have to be very careful.I'm about to remove the cushions from a CL350 rear hub, how do you keep the hole saw centered in the bushing?
My understanding is heat the drum up in the 250-300 range after having frozen the new bushings for a day or so and they will drive in easily.So now that I'm reading these stories about the business removing the drive cushes I'm wondering if I remove the bolts and cushes at all. There was no problem with them as far as I know I was just being anal and replacing anything that looked crappy on the bike. Obviously these haven't been touched since it left Japan. If I do it are there any tricks to getting the new cushes in?
That's what I think, I left them on my racer and my cl. They ain't goin anywhere.So now that I'm reading these stories about the business removing the drive cushes I'm wondering if I remove the bolts and cushes at all. There was no problem with them as far as I know I was just being anal and replacing anything that looked crappy on the bike. Obviously these haven't been touched since it left Japan. If I do it are there any tricks to getting the new cushes in?
After my experience, I would recommend that approach. There's a lot to be said for the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" way of life.So now that I'm reading these stories about the business removing the drive cushes I'm wondering if I remove the bolts and cushes at all. There was no problem with them as far as I know I was just being anal and replacing anything that looked crappy on the bike. Obviously these haven't been touched since it left Japan. If I do it are there any tricks to getting the new cushes in?
Sounds good, but I would also put anti-seize or grease on the bushings before hammering in. Sometimes it takes a press to get them in.OK so after cracking the hub casing my NOS hub arrived and also the new bolts and bushings. Before I make any more sadness happen tomorrow I wanted to check with people here about what I'm about to do. I'm putting the bushings and the bolts in the freezer tonight. Tomorrow I'll heat up the hub with a heat gun (not a torch) and install the cold bushings/bolts by tapping them in with a piece of wood over them and hammer. This sound right to everyone? Also I assume I tap the bushings in first and then the bolts (not put the bolts in the bushings and tap the two part assembly in as one) right?
Thanks-
DW