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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks!

Had a thread going in the member introduction section, but thought I'd migrate over to the project log space.

New to the forum and to bikes in general! I recently came into the possession of a 1975 CB360T, when I was chatting with a friend of mine who now lives out of province. He asked if I wanted his bike as he had no more use for it and didn't want to see it collect dust. So with that, I now have this beauty sitting in my garage.

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While traveling Vietnam a few years ago, I bought a 110cc Honda WIN and rode it down the country! Had never ridden before, and wasn't sure if I'd make it my first two days on the bike, but soon after, I fell in love and have been wanting to get back on one every since!

To my knowledge, it hasn't run in about 5 years, but has been kept stored in a garage. I have no mechanical experience whatsoever, but willingness to learn and get my hands dirty!

So far from checking out this forum, I believe my first steps are to run a compression test, adjust valves if needed, rebuild the carb, and clean out the gas tank which has a bit of surface rust inside. Hopefully, I can get her running with that, and then dig deeper.

- Compression is good, reading about 165-170psi on both cylinders.
- Valves are adjusted (though I stripped the screw heads a bit stripped because I didn't use an offset wrench. Oh well.)

I'm going to try and clean the carbs tonight. I bought spray carb cleaner, so I imagine I just:

1) Disassemble the carb
2) Remove all plastics and o-rings
3) Spray the cleaner on thick (What's the best way to clean around the diaphragm?)
4) Wipe clean with a towel (do I need to rinse off with water? do I wipe dry or let dry by itself?)
5) Reassemble carb using the rebuild kit I ordered

Let me know if this looks accurate or if I'm missing any steps!

Thanks and looking forward to all the support!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've cleaned both carbs (accidentally didn't dry one completely and let it sit so a little rust built up, ugh) and now it's time to put them back together...the thing is, I took some parts off one and not sure how to put the parts back on. D'oh. The photos I took don't really help me put them back together. Any thoughts on what goes where?

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Sensei
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look at the drawing in the previously referenced link....You have several parts on incorrectly now.....
 

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Remove the chrome tops and take slides out before you do any spraying anywhere near diaphragms (or buy new ones at about $90.00 each or JBM around $50.00 a pair)
The diaphragms will tear if you get carb cleaner on them plus, slides have to come out to be able to remove primary discharge nozzle from body (carb cleaner won't touch what's likely on it)
You need to remove the pulley to be able to relocate the spindle in carb, cutting corners to 'save time' just about always creates much more difficult to fix problems
Pay attention to the way the 'C' clip, thrust and steel washers fit.plus which are on each side of pulley wheel
I'm pretty sure you can't lock down the nut or tab up the washer the way you have carbs at present
The tab washer in picture goes under bolt head of link bar
 

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Nice looking bike ... I have the same one ... just finishing up my build ... good luck, ping me if you need help finding parts ...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
look at the drawing in the previously referenced link....You have several parts on incorrectly now.....
Which parts are you referring to specifically? Everything seemed to be in order, other than the link set not being in the proper position.



Remove the chrome tops and take slides out before you do any spraying anywhere near diaphragms (or buy new ones at about $90.00 each or JBM around $50.00 a pair)
The diaphragms will tear if you get carb cleaner on them plus, slides have to come out to be able to remove primary discharge nozzle from body (carb cleaner won't touch what's likely on it)
You need to remove the pulley to be able to relocate the spindle in carb, cutting corners to 'save time' just about always creates much more difficult to fix problems
Pay attention to the way the 'C' clip, thrust and steel washers fit.plus which are on each side of pulley wheel
I'm pretty sure you can't lock down the nut or tab up the washer the way you have carbs at present
The tab washer in picture goes under bolt head of link bar
Carbs were taken apart, diaphragms removed, and put back together with a rebuild kit. Yes, I was confused about the link set assembly but seem to have figure it out!

Next step it to synch the carbs, but I have to get it running first! Next up is an oil change, new battery, and I'll give it a go!
 

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Oh, in the first picture, carbs are not fitted right. They need to go into manifolds at least another 1/4"
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi everyone. I'm trying to remove the kickstart pedal so I can do an oil change but I can't seem to get it off! I've been banging at it with a rubber mallet in frustration but it only seems to budge the same amount.

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I sprayed some WD40 into where it connects but it's doing nothing. Would really appreciate some help!

Thank you!
 

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You need some sort of 'fork' to pry it off or use the end of lever and something at bottom to pry back and forth. They are usually 'loose' on splines when bolt is removed but still too tight to easily slide off.
Opening the slot slightly with a large flat screwdriver or pry bar may help
You don't need to remove kick starter to do oil change, only to check pick up screen and clean filter.
99.999% certain you will need new clutch cover gasket
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You need some sort of 'fork' to pry it off or use the end of lever and something at bottom to pry back and forth. They are usually 'loose' on splines when bolt is removed but still too tight to easily slide off.
Opening the slot slightly with a large flat screwdriver or pry bar may help
You don't need to remove kick starter to do oil change, only to check pick up screen and clean filter.
99.999% certain you will need new clutch cover gasket
Thanks, PJ! I'll give it a try. Didn't want to force anything if there was an easier way to do it. And yes, looking to clean the screen and filter, that's why I'm looking to get the crankcase cover off. Will look at ordering a new gasket too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi everyone!

Working on the front forks of my CB360T and having difficulty getting the allen bolt off the bottom of the fork. Seems to just keep spinning and not sure how to remove. Any helpful tips?

Thank you!
 

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Hi everyone!

Working on the front forks of my CB360T and having difficulty getting the allen bolt off the bottom of the fork. Seems to just keep spinning and not sure how to remove. Any helpful tips?

Thank you!
If you've removed the fork tube cap and spring, put 'em back on. You need to break that socket head cap screw loose while it's under compression by the spring.
If the cap and spring are still in place, you may need to resort to a pneumatic wrench- the combination of torque and impact may help to break the bolt loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks, Putz! I did have the cap and springs removed. I'll give that a try later tonight. Makes sense for it to need a bit of friction. Will update on results!
 

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You may need to take it to a shop.
'We' used to do them all the time for people 'for a pint out the back door' as it only takes seconds with an air impact (and often free if anyone was doing forks at the time)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I read about cutting a broomstick to the length of the fork and putting it in the tube to create some friction against the piece inside, but it still just spins. This one day job is turning into a two-week, wait for a friend who has an impact driver to be free to come over, job. Sigh.
 

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Have you tried tightening it first? Then break it free again with a sharp blow to an allen wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't know if I'm cut out for this. I need some advice please, I think I made a big boo boo. Finally was able to get the allen bolt out of the bottom of the forks, but the seals themselves were a different story. No amount of prying or pulling were getting them out, so I thought I'd drill some screws into the seals so I could grab hold with the back of a hammer and work them out millimeter by millimeter. The seals eventually came out, but while drilling into the seals I managed to carve out substantial valleys into the insides of both bottom cases of the forks.

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I assume this damage puts me at risk of leaking ATF and scratching the fork pipes. Any thoughts on what to do? Will trying to sand the edges smooth with 1000+ sandpaper help at all? Can I fill in these scratches somehow? If there was a cheap method that required a lot of elbow grease, I'm all ears! I hope these don't make the bottom cases useless or damaging to the rest of the fork!
 

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Just clean up the burrs as smooth as you can. The seals ride above that area and the tubes are harder metal than the aluminum. They should be fine.
 

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Heat and prying works. Use a small propane torch to get tops hot and seals almost 'fall' out
 
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