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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All 馃憢

Just getting the a project log started for a CM450C I inherited from my dad a few years ago after my Grandpa passed (his bike) about a decade earlier. I started with some initial work on it (carbs, minor fabrication, etc.) before deciding to go get engaged and married, so not much has been done for the last two years. I鈥檓 getting back in the saddle and working on it.

Prior to it coming into my ownership, it sat under a patio through Wisconsin winter for the better part of a decade (though it was running when parked). I debated if I should try to restore it or go the cafe route. With the rising price and limited availability of parts, I decided to try my hand at a cafe build- but one that is reversible (no cutting, welding, etc. as much as possible). Parts that aren鈥檛 totally rotten or garbage have been pulled off and saved.

How it sits today:
  • The tank is in surprisingly good shape, so I鈥檓 sticking with a red and black theme. Tank interior is in very good shape.
  • Seat I鈥檒l be using is off of a 1995 CBR600F3, as is the shift linkage and brake master cylinder. Foot pegs are from a Honda moped.
  • Pod filters have been added- I was shooting for ones that have a little more volume (and happen to match color)
  • A small bracket had been fabricated to hold the new dash, choke, and ignition- not sure if I鈥檓 going to keep it
  • Exhausts were totally rotted from mufflers, collectors, and starting up the pipe. They have been chopped, wrapped, and silicone coated
  • Carbs are clean, new petcock ordered.
  • Front end dropped down 52mm, clip-ons added (originally had a cafe clubman bar but liked the way it looked more than the way it felt and the front end sat too high).
Near future work:
  • New battery, spark plugs, and temporarily get the electronics plugged together- I鈥檇 like to see if she fires.
  • Forks have totally leaked out and need to be rebuilt.
  • Bracket to mount seat to frame and the figure out tail light and indicators.
  • Under seat electronics tray and electrical relocation.
  • Front brake caliper needs help.
Other concerns:
  • Slow oil leak- I gave the bike an oil change when I inherited it and it has had a slow leak (2-3 drops per month) coming from the oil pan area. No sure if a gasket didn鈥檛 sit well or what but needs to be addressed.
  • I haven鈥檛 solved the rear brake pedal relocation yet, especially since a muffler has to be negotiated. Anyone see any good relocations so far?
  • The last time the bike was ran, the rear sprocket came off the rim. I bought new sprockets, chain, and components for the rim but looks like the outer edge has a little damage- I would definitely appreciate opinions on if it should be replaced or if it looks normal.
Here is the first picture of hopefully many- I鈥檒l get some more modification and question specific pictures (brackets, rear rim, etc.) in the near future.

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Thanks in advance everyone! Looking forward to your feedback!
 

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looks like you have a plan. I couldn't make out the rear sprocket adequately to see much but that's sure an event I'm not familiar with.

In case you haven't seen it yet, here's a guide you may find useful:

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I got a picture of the hub this morning- you can see some of the metal has chipped? off and caused a taper on the outer edge. I wasn鈥檛 super confident in putting the clip around the assembly to hold it all in.
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Thoughts? Think it鈥檚 worth a low speed close-to-home ride when running or should I be replacing it right away?
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I can tell you that your shift linkage will need to be extended to work properly. If the arms where the linkage rod connects aren't parallel, it's not going to shift well
 

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I'm not familiar with the SOHC 400 series bikes, they came out after I had already left the Honda shops. From what I've seen recently of posts about similar issues with the sprocket and hub arrangement, it appears you might have damage there. Our resident 400 series expert will be along to give you the best advice, he's the one who asked for more close-up pictures of the hub in post #2
 

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So far the damage doesn't look to be of concern, once you get the sprocket off the hub a good picture of the hub will tell me what I need to know.
I had a rear sprocket/wheel failure. Here's a couple pictures
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Discussion Starter #10
I鈥檒l make sure I put some time aside this week or weekend to get the rear wheel off and grab a few quick pictures. I don鈥檛 recall seeing any damage on the outer rim of the hub like that, but the clip didn鈥檛 want to go in the groove the first few tries when putting everything back on. Thanks for the advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Haven鈥檛 taken the rear wheel off quite yet- decided on the front forks first since the parts came in. She was a mess- one side almost dry, the other a mix of oil and mud.
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Also discovered a missing component 4 in the left fork and a bent/warped and rusted component 7 in the other. The washer I鈥檓 thinking I may be able to replace with anything? I will have to go on a hunt for the other.
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Still hoping to get the rear tire off this weekend and get some pictures. Getting the front end put together preceded plugging electronics in which precedes seeing if she will fire. Rear tire isn鈥檛 on the critical path but still on the to do list.

All part of the fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got done rebuilding the forks today (a litttle time with an anvil and hammer to straighten out the ring) and took the rear wheel off as anticipated to get pictures.

So here is the wheel from four different angles. The snap ring popped right off- didn鈥檛 need a pliers or anything.
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After a closer look, I don鈥檛 think the chamfered edge is the problem- I thinkthe snap ring is too wide. Anybody else have this problem? I couldn鈥檛 get the ring to sit in the channel, even without the rest of the assembly in place. The snap ring is new.
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Also, if anybody is looking to do clip-ons and drop the front end a bit,I would recommend 52mm.It works great with the standard cheap eBay clip-ons (just under 50mm) and is a great height to run the air line between the forks through the risers for the handlebar.
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What are everyone鈥檚 thoughts on the snap ring? Grind it down a bit or purchase a different one? Any way there could be build-up on the rim that needs to be filed or sanded out?
 

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I would sand and file all of the corrosion out of the groove, the circlip should be a snug fit. If that doesn't do it then you should source a thinner one if possible. Fiche just calls it at 65mm, no other info.
Note that the sharp edge goes the direction of pressure, in this case the sharp edge is out
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would sand and file all of the corrosion out of the groove, the circlip should be a snug fit. If that doesn't do it then you should source a thinner one if possible. Fiche just calls it at 65mm, no other info.
Note that the sharp edge goes the direction of pressure, in this case the sharp edge is out
10-4. I鈥檒l spend some time with sandpaper and a small file and see if I can鈥檛 get rid of some of that corrosion and widen the gap a bit.

A blessing from taking the wheel off is I had an idea about how to fabricate a rear brake lever- stay tuned on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I spent some quality time with a file and some sandpaper this afternoon, and got good and bad results.

the good- the channel is wide enough and deep enough to accept the clip ring.

the bad- it doesn鈥檛 matter. The ring doesn鈥檛 have enough tension to hold everything down.

as you can see from the pictures, there is about 1.5mm difference between it sitting without tension and me pulling the points together- with the latter, the assembly doesn鈥檛 budge. If no tension, I can pull everything off the hub easily without tool. No bueno. I put the ring in the vice for a bit hoping I could tighten it up but no difference in results. I鈥檓 not sure sure where to go from here other than purchasing another snap ring and hoping the tolerances are different.
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also spent some time with electrical today (not my strong suit). Thank goodness for wiring diagrams because somebody had jury rigged something in the front and back at some point. It wasn鈥檛 quite plug and play like I was hoping, but it did give me an opportunity to wire in the new speedo with dummy lights.
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I think she鈥檚 almost to the point of getting a battery and firing her up. I want to get the exhaust headers on but after that, just do the basic checks, add some fuel and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Mail person brought some goodies today for this bike and my Super Hawk. New spark plugs (iridium) gapped and installed today as well as grips added. Not big stuff but stuff that needed to get done nonetheless.

btw highly recommend Progrip 714BK grips if you guys ever need a recommendation. I use them on my personal bikes and builds. Plenty comfy, easy to trim, and affordable.
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Does anybody know if the CM400 models and the CM450 models run similar electronics requirements? I鈥檓 looking at a battery similar to what was done here (and the tray too) but noticed the battery used is smaller than OEM.
Yes they are essentially identical. The battery runs the lights, horn and starter. It's a 12V 12A battery.
I'll suggest using an AGM battery as well as upgrading the voltage regulator to a MOSFET type. The stock regulator specs are 15V +/- .5V so effectively you're charging the battery at 14.5 to 15.5 volts. Enough to damage modern batteries to say nothing about boiling the water solution out of the traditional lead acid batteries.
I use the MotoBatt MB12U battery. I get my regulators here Home and Matt, aka Sonreir, from Sparckmoto sells a regulator also 12V MOSFET Regulator/Rectifier - Sparck Moto
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes they are essentially identical. The battery runs the lights, horn and starter. It's a 12V 12A battery.
I'll suggest using an AGM battery as well as upgrading the voltage regulator to a MOSFET type. The stock regulator specs are 15V +/- .5V so effectively you're charging the battery at 14.5 to 15.5 volts. Enough to damage modern batteries to say nothing about boiling the water solution out of the traditional lead acid batteries.
I use the MotoBatt MB12U battery. I get my regulators here Home and Matt, aka Sonreir, from Sparckmoto sells a regulator also 12V MOSFET Regulator/Rectifier - Sparck Moto
馃憤 Thanks! I鈥檝e been keeping my eyes on a MOSFET r/r or a Rick鈥檚. Been tossing around the idea of an LI possibly as well- if going to spend the money on an upgrade like that, might as well spend the money. I do like the idea of an AGM sealed battery though versus an LI. Options options.

To keep the price down to start at least to see if she turns over, I ordered an Everstart ST5L-BS for $22 shipped. It鈥檚 the available option these days for the ES5L-BS replacement, which I noticed was used in the under seat tray thread I linked. It鈥檚 an AGM battery like you recommended.
 
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