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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all-
After replacing most of the perishable items on my 1970 CL350 she is running better than new. YES!! From an electric standpoint I had a new rectifier installed, end. No problems, bike rips for 1000 miles.
Coming home from a long ride for me (50 miles), I blow a fuse. Also, I started running the Hi-beams for the first time.
Change the fuse and she fires up. I'm 6 blocks from home. 3 blocks from home she dies again. Being prepared I have another spare fuse and get home.
Ready for a ride the next day. I'm convinced it was running the hi-beams too long. She fires up and I ride away. Turn the low-beams on and she dies. Make it home again and open the bucket to investigate.

There is a double blue/blue connection from the headlight bulb that charred. The outer plastic around the male connector is gone, if there ever was one. The double connector the male goes into is "burned" in that female section. Looks to be a slight deterioration of the end of the blue cable on the mentioned male side. Not bad though, very minimum. I wrap in electric tape. Plug barrel in, turn power on and engage low beam and instantly blow fuse.

Bike runs great with headlight off.

Nothing else obvious sticking out to me. I did pull and re-pull the switch cables out of and back through new handlebars. But again, ran 1000 miles with zero issues. Maybe some cable frayed and is shorting? Something easier I'm missing.

Looking for suggestions.
As always, thanks!
 

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Sensei
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Two possibilities ....Your assumption is correct and a "hot" wire is grounding out due to strain or insulation failure, OR you are using the wrong fuses and the connection clips are now damaged.......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was using Bussman 15A glass fuses 1/4x1". The connection clips look better than expected, shiny and free of cracks. I'm thinking it is internal, maybe at the switch.

I ordered OEM fuses to try first.

Thanks!
 

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Remove that old fuse holder and wire in something like this: Amazon.com : blade fuse holder inline
The blade type fuses are more vibration resistant than the old glass type and easier to find these days. You can also plug in a blade type circuit breaker into that spot while you hunt that elusive short and save money on fuses.
 

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Sensei
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27,018 Posts
I was using Bussman 15A glass fuses 1/4x1". The connection clips look better than expected, shiny and free of cracks. I'm thinking it is internal, maybe at the switch.

I ordered OEM fuses to try first.

Thanks!
Those are SAE sized fuses and the heating damage has already been done to the fuse clip terminals (loss of spring temper)....BTW, it was that same overheating at the contacts/clips that CAUSED the fuses to "blow"......Now that the clips have lost some temper, they will NOT hold even the correctly sized (Metric) fuses tight enough to prevent overheating again, resulting in another "blown" fuse....... Listen to Mike, but make it a permanent repair......
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Man, you guys saved me a lot of undo fumbling.
I ordered a NOS version. To keep it period for now.

Thanks so much guys!
Best-
 
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