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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off I'd like to give a big thank you to jayel. Not only did he send me the head and cover, but went as far as to include the advancer plate, points plate and points, points cover, oil seal and tappet covers (which were even labeled). The stuff was in very decent condition too!

So this morning, I brought the head into work, and dropped it in the sandblaster to clean up the port and combustion chambers. After about 10 minutes, the chambers look practically brand new! The head is in such good condition, that don't think I'm going to need any parts from my old head. This is good, because it saves me from sourcing a valve spring compressor...

I'm going to finish cleaning it, make sure the valves move, and let 'er rip. I have a couple of questions though:

1. I'm looking for a solvent cleaner of some type. Basically something I can soak this head in for a day or two, to get the grime off, and free up the valves a little bit.

2. Exactly how hard are the valve springs to compress? I tried pushing on the springs with my thumbs to actuate the valve, and couldn't budge them. I want to make sure they move before I re-install this head.

-MK
 

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and tappet covers (which were even labeled). The stuff was in very decent condition too!
:lol: I don't know how many of those tappet covers have got stripped switching them from hole to hole they all seem to take a "set" and it's best to put them back in the same hole, damn soft stuff

while that head is off a valve job with new valve guide seals would be cheap insurance that thing set outside for 20 years
 

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If you could compress those valves with your thumbs, the springs would be bad..... I can barely do it on a 50cc valve which has a lot thinner diameter wire springs...... I had to use a compressor on the 90 cc and larger bikes......
 

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This is serious- You SANDBLASTED the assembled head?
This needs to be disassembled completely and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. Then boiled and cleaned some more. If you sandblasted the aluminum that sand will be embedded and will come out after a few heat cycles into your oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm pretty sure it'll be okay. I blasted the combustion chambers NOT the inside of the head where the camshaft resides. I used compressed air after that, and I'm going to clean it thouroughly before installation with carb cleaner and engine degreaser.

-MK
 

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:eek: :eek: Once the head was inside the sand blast chamber you committed yourself to a full strip and clean :eek: :eek: You may have only blasted the chambers, but the fine dust generated will have coated the entire assembly and this dust is highly abrasive and needs to be cleaned from every nook and cranny. Take this as opportunity to familiarise yourself with the head and fitting new valve stem seals, clean the valves, inspect for any wear and throughly cleaning the head will give you peace of mind later on and is a good maintenance practice.

Blasting media when used produces large amounts of static electricity, this "-" charges the item being blasted and the fine dust is "+" charged so the two attract and the fine dust coats the entire surface :twisted: . This is the same theory used in powder coating etc. good if you want to paint something :lol: :lol:

When the head is striped get yourself 6, 8, 10 mm bottoming taps and use them to clean every thread then use a nut die in 6, 8, 10 mm to clean every exposed thread. When finished clean the head with kerosine and blow out every hole with compressed air, then do it again. Sorry if this sounds a bit preachy but i have seen firsthand what happens when blasting dust gets into and engine and it an't pretty.

Removing the vales is a straight forward job and compressors can be found fairly cheaply or you can make one from a "G" clamp which ever way you go, you end up with a new tool :D and good experience for the next engine build :lol:
 

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I've got to agree 100%- made the same mistakes years ago, you can spray and rinse and clean everything but when you take everything apart you will still have grit in all sorts of places. Been there /done that. And any threaded holes need to have scrap bolts (and junk spark plugs in the spark plug holes) screwed into them during blasting or the bolts will gall the threads and you will become a helicoil specialist.
 

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Just to reinforce Allen and Tom's warnings.....
There are no "shortcuts" once it's been blasted...You HAVE to do a complete tear-down and THOROUGH cleaning.......
If/before you panic, I have a spare 360 head and camshaft ..... E-mail or PM me.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Stripped the valves out at lunch today. The spring compressor was pretty tight within the spring pocket, but I managed to get them all out. Hopefully I can get them back in now, lol. Managed to only turn one into a projectile too. That ****** had some velocity!

Valve seats all look beautiful, as do the guides. I'm going to thouroughly clean and degrease tonight. Then hopefully re-assemble/install tomorrow. Hopefully by the end of the holiday weekend, you'll see an update in the Project section with some fresh pictures that arent from my garage or driveway...

Thanks again to the whole board for making me do the right thing, and saving this project.

-MK
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Man this whole project has been one big "what next?" I'm hoping to put an end to that with this...

Although with the extent you're going through your 360, I'm sure you know all too well...
 

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mktsc said:
Although with the extent you're going through your 360, I'm sure you know all too well...
Ever since I was old enough to hang out with my grand-dad in his workshop I've loved pulling things apart....its only in recent years I've learned how to put it all back together again. I wouldnt be going to these extremes if I was in dire need of transport. I'm sure the hard parts are yet to surface on my build ( electricals, timing etc) :x
 
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