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Diggin' it :cool: Love that front fender!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
leethal said:
Diggin' it :cool: Love that front fender!
You are one of the few. Rat art lovers are few and far between I guess. Very common in the UK. That's where I got the idea from. I had a Harley once. Spent more time polishing that thing than riding. What an easy rut to find one's self in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Light is mounted and the wiring is finished now except for instruments. Light switch powers the signal switch for Hi/Lo beam.

 

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I notice looking at the "pinch" bolts on the top bridge that the "special" washers are absent :eek: (the ones that fit IN the slot with a flat side to clear the tube)...Several (350,360, and 450 in particular) Honda top trees are known for cracking or breaking if improperly tightened and these are critical to help prevent that from occurring.....Since it is a safety issue, I felt obliged to mention it.....

The fromt brake line also NEEDS supported at both ends of the flex area to prevent vibration and fatigue cracking of the steel line..(again, safety first) ....
 

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66Sprint said:
I notice looking at the "pinch" bolts on the top bridge that the "special" washers are absent (the ones that fit IN the slot with a flat side to clear the tube)...Several (350,360, and 450 in particular) Honda top trees are known for cracking or breaking if improperly tightened and these are critical to help prevent that from occurring
Steve, I got paranoid after learning of the special washers, are you certain they are present on the 360 top tree? Heres the fiche I based my build upon... are you referring to part #22 ?
 

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Sensei
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NO... The 360 bridges "tried' a different means of crack prevention in (the shape of) their design.... It didn't work well.....which is why there are several part superceeds (attempting improvement)..... None of them were 100%, but the later CL version is the strongest.....
Hence the relative scarcity of 360 top bridges available........
 

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that is interesting, and important! i had no idea there is meant to be a special washer in there. the top triple on my 450 was broken on both sides when i got it (and no spacer in there), was able to replace with a 500T top triple which I believe has the exact geometry of the 450 one, and looking at schematics I DO NOT see that spacer on the 500T triple.

Am I correct that the 500T does not have that spacer? I am also hoping that it is less prone to failure due to the fact that the gauge mount lugs are positioned differently from the 450 and seem to be reinforcing the area where the 450 top triple fails.

thanks
 

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The 500T bridge does have the same geometry.... It does not use the spacer washer, but as you noticed, was re-designed for better strength....However, you still MUST follow assembly order and torque specs to assure they aren't similarly compromised.....bolt tightening sequence is important/critical ......
Bridge pinch bolts are last, AFTER the top bridge is secured with the stem nut.
 

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thanks for confirming, and I will be sure to torque to spec in the correct order. now i just have to decide if i want to move the ignition up to the triple as the 500T has a loop for it there, or put something else in there, maybe a clock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
66Sprint said:
I notice looking at the "pinch" bolts on the top bridge that the "special" washers are absent :eek: (the ones that fit IN the slot with a flat side to clear the tube)...Several (350,360, and 450 in particular) Honda top trees are known for cracking or breaking if improperly tightened and these are critical to help prevent that from occurring.....Since it is a safety issue, I felt obliged to mention it.....

The fromt brake line also NEEDS supported at both ends of the flex area to prevent vibration and fatigue cracking of the steel line..(again, safety first) ....
The bike had no washer in the "split" of the top or bottom pinch bolt areas would you happen to know the honda part # for these washers or their thickness? I have not read of this issue before and yes I will be clamping the brake hose.
UPDATE: For those of you following this thread, the top bridge pinch
bolt spacer washer is honda pn# 53235-300-000 and runs about $3.54 each. Thanks to 66sprint for pointing this issue out :mrgreen: . If someone has one of these washers and would post it's thickness I would be oblidged.
 

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I for one would like to see a photo of said pinch bolt washer. Perhaps further homemade versions could reduce the spread of the infamous 360 top-tree cancer.... :lol:
 

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leethal said:
I for one would like to see a photo of said pinch bolt washer. Perhaps further homemade versions could reduce the spread of the infamous 360 top-tree cancer.... :lol:
The washer is easy to make. Without looking, I think it's a 10mm washer with one side ground down so it looks like a 'D'. If you have a regular 10mm washer, it takes about 30 seconds to make. In the end, you want to make sure the bridges pinch the fork tubes enough to hold them. This is where the washer thickness would make a difference if it was a critical dimension from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I need to loosen mine before I forget. I boned em down when I put it together :( .
 

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I am totally gonna make one of these washers, thanks fellas for this invaluable discussion :D
 

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As leethal said, great discussion. I found a 360 triple for sale on Ebay last month and knew I would be passing through Roanoke this weekend so I made arrangements to pick it and a few other low price parts up. I figured for the price, it was a good pickup knowing the issues with the triples. I have my forks apart right now getting ready to install the fork seals so I will have to take a look at this washer fix. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Added pods and checked the plugs...good color. Like the stock filters GONE :lol: .



 

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Personally I have never been a rat bike fan, however I am going to make an exception in your case. You have a certain "je ne sait quoi" with this one.

Have to agree with Steves comments (although I didnt know about the special washer on the 350 pinch bolts)
I know you need to support the brake line as that rubber hose will cause a lot of movement and it will fracture.

Would you consider using St St braidsed lines which will be a lot more efficient than the old rubber lines (unless they are and just painted black of course)
 
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