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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Gold 1968 Honda CB350

I just picked up a 68 Gold CB350. I read that in 68 they came in three colors red, blue and green. So why is this one gold? I've taken covers off to see if there is a different color underneath but I only see gold. So is this maybe not a 68? I don't have the title yet but can anyone tell why it's gold?
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What number does the serial number start with? The '68 (and '69) had white side covers, a white headlight, and two-tone tanks, the primary color over white. The '70 model came in gold, and the headlight and side covers were gold also. The tank was still two-tone, gold over white.
 

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That's a correct number for a late '68 model. It's either been repainted (the '68 and '69 CB tanks had rubber knee pads on them), or has bodywork from a newer 350 on it. At least, that's my guess without seeing any pictures.
 

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Yes, I see the picture. Looks to be mostly a '68, with a few parts from later models. The front fender is definitely from a '70 or '71, and the '68 didn't have yellow reflectors on the front forks. The tank is either a '70 model, or the rubber knee pad mounts have been removed and covered over with body filler.
 

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An excellent project bike.
Very restorable.

Yes many PO changes including a repaint job of questionable care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all. So far I've rebuilt the carbs, cleaned out the gas tank, new plugs, new gas lines, and misc. It has spark so I'll put some gas in and see if it will start when I get home from work. Wish me luck. The last it was registered was 1997
 

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If you haven't already done it, change the oil and squirt some onto the cam, rocker arms, and valve stems before you start it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good advice, I will do so. Let me ask you this. I've been told to put a little oil or ATF into the cylinders to loosen up rings. I did this and after a few days, kicked it over (with the plugs out) to remove the excess fluid out and nothing came out. I checked the crank oil and it was high, I'm guessing the ATF leaked passed the rings and into the crank, do you think this means I need new rings? Or do I need to get it warmed up to really tell whats up? Cold each cylinder is about 120 psi on the compression test. Odometer shows about 30K miles.
 

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Nothing to worry about - rings aren't oil tight on an engine that isn't running. Just change the oil and you'll be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I haven't been able to see if the bike will run yet, I got everything hooked up last night and hopefully can give it a try tonight.
I read in the manual that the bike takes about 2 quarts of oil but couldn't find anywhere what oil is recommended. I found on a site they recommend 10W-40 but do I need a specific type for the clutch? Any oil recommendations out there?
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A lot of people use 15w40 Shell Rotella T4 oil, which is available at auto parts stores, Wal-Mart, etc. You can also find motorcycle-specific oil at many of the same places. Honda sells GN4 oil that's good for these bikes, but it's a little pricey. I wouldn't use regular "car oil" in it because of the lack of proper additives and the presence of friction modifiers that may not be good for a wet clutch.

I wouldn't dump in the entire 2 quarts. Pour in about 1.5 quarts and then check the dipstick level and fill the rest of the way accordingly. BTW, don't screw the dipstick in when checking the oil level - just let it rest on the case opening, and the bike needs to be level, not on the sidestand.
 

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83xlx said, " I wouldn't dump in the entire 2 quarts. Pour in about 1.5 quarts and then check the dipstick level and fill the rest of the way accordingly. BTW, don't screw the dipstick in when checking the oil level - just let it rest on the case opening, and the bike needs to be level, not on the sidestand.[/QUOTE]

If all the old fluid is drained, there's no reason to purposely under fill your crankcase. Put in 2 quarts.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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The owner's manual states a capacity of 1.9 quarts. When you drain the oil, 100% of the old oil never comes out. I wasn't suggesting under filling the sump - I was suggesting checking the level before dumping the entire 2 fresh quarts in. My experience is if you put 2 quarts in and then check it, it will be a little over the full mark on the dipstick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
A buddy that's a mechanic said on engines that have sat for a long time (mainly cars) he will put in around 20% ATF with the oil to clean the motor. My plan is to put in fresh oil, with some ATF, run the motor for a bit (if it will start), drain the oil and put in fresh oil. What do y'all think?
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When I was ready to see if mine would start (it had sat for over 20 years), I drained the old oil, which actually looked pretty good, and refilled it with 10w30 and a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil. Ran it for a few miles and drained it. Refilled it with 10w40 and was good to go. I've never put ATF in one, so I can't give you any advice one way or the other.
 
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