[nest711]

Hey guys, been considering upgrading my CL360 gauges to a single needle tach with a digital spedo. In particular I'm looking at this one, link https://www.dimecitycycles.com/acewell-ca085-551-classic-multifunction-12k-tachometer-black-cnc-white-face.html I also plan on buying the conversion spedo cable, link https://www.dimecitycycles.com/acewell-digital-speedometer-conversion-cable-for-honda-cb-cl-yamaha.html so that the connection is easier. Being a conscious buyer I went ahead and took a look at the manual before I even thought of purchasing linked here, http://www.acewell-meter.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/CA-085-1XX_2XX-Series-V01-USER-MANUAL-EN-20150211.pdf , and I've run into several questions.

1. On the second page under the Wheel Circumference Table on bullet point 5 it mentions that if i am using a cable drive speed sensor, which I assume is the conversion cable I linked above, I need to enter in the number of turns the cable makes per turn of wheel into the pulse screen. How on earth would I even begin to find this value as wouldn't the rotation be internal, i.e. inside the cable where I cannot see the rotation?

2. Under the Clock, RPM, Wheel, Divider, Unit, Maintain etc. heading bullet point 6 it says, "It displays "RPM SP 1r1P", the default value is 1r1P; there are 5 options: 1r1P, 1r2P, 1r4P, 2r1P, 3r1P, “r” means the numbers of engine rotation, “P” means number of signals from engine. For example the value 2r1P means the engine rotates 2 turns to output one signal." Once again this is confusing, or perhaps I am over thinking it because on first glance I believe it would simply be 2r1P; please add any insight / correct me if I am misinformed.

3. Under the previous heading bullet point 10 it mentions different speed sensor type settings. Given that I am using the conversion cable my setting should be the gear sensor one as I am not using any rEED or HALL magnets, correct?


I understand this is all a little tedious, but any insight would be appreciated as I am wondering if this gauge will even function properly on my machine. Thanks

 

[middletons]

Use tape on the wheel to mark a spot and roll it. Count the revolutions of the existing speedo cable by disconnecting the gauge end and watch it turn. It'll be the same revolutions as the conversion cable.

Can't help with your other questions

 

[nest711]

That's a really clever way to do it; would've taken me ages to think of that. Thanks a lot middletons!

As for question #2 I'm thinking the pulses may have a relationship with the spark plugs. So since the bike has two spark plugs, every time the engine rotates there would be two pulses. This means the setting would be 1r2P. Worst comes to worst there are only five settings so I could always hop on the bike and take a ride for each setting until I find the proper one where the RPMs actually match correctly. This method could also be used for question #3 as there are only three options for the spedo setting, so once again hop on take a ride for each setting until I find what works. I'd still love it if someone else could possibly chime in and shed a little more light on these two settings as well as any other possible issues I could run into while installing this baby.

 

[ancientdad]

The 360 is a 180° crankshaft, so there would not be 2 firing pulses each rotation as there would be on a 360° crankshaft like a 175/200/SOHC 400 does where one spark is a "wasted" spark

 

[nest711]

That makes total sense in context with the process I went through to time the engine, rotations and all, so thanks for the insight Tom. I also found some mathematical calculations off a site that said that for a four-stroke engine it is 0.5 * the number of cylinders to find pulses per engine rotation, so that would be 1 rotation 1 pulse for my bike. This all means that the tach/spedos default setting of 1r1P would be the setting I should try first as it appears to be the one!

Another quick side question, the instructions say to tap into the primary side of the coil and looking around the various forums I've found that it's recommended to do so on the negative side of the coil. So that means I would be tapping into the wire going into the points as that is part of the primary circuit, but on the negative side of the coil. Linking image that show cases my reasoning: https://thumbsnap.com/s/vDzD0GZU.jpg