[76TWIN]

I stumbled upon this little gem while searching the web.

Twin Cylinder Motorcycle Electronic Ignition System Kit 12v volt NEGATIVE earth - Gammatronix

Has anyone had any experience with this EI?
I'm liking that the ignition modules have LED's built in for timing.

 

[jd50i]

It still uses point and mechanical advance, reason I went with a PAMCO which eliminates both of them. Points will still need periodic adjusting and advancer springs get weak over time.

 

[76TWIN]

Yes it does require points and the mechanical advance but then so do the other EI's out there like the ones from Charlie's Place
And at 42.95 GBP (approx. 61 USD) it is more affordable than most.

 

[Rob Axel]

I have read about "similar" types of ignitions.. they convert the points to a "switch", eliminating arc and wear spots on the contact surfaces.. but let's not forget.. that isn't the only "wear" spot on points.. you have the rubbing block... and don't forget that spring is made of metal. With heat, and use.. the "points" I'm sure will need adjustment at some time..
If you are set on keeping the mechanical advance, go with the Dyna, I put one on my shovelhead.. it did the job well, and was reliable.. AND fairly inexpensive..
All E.I.s have good points and bad..it is a matter of doing your homework, and deciding what you want and what you want to do with your bike..

 

[Lost_Cause]

Rob the way you said all EI. Have good "points" and ...

I was like wth does that mean lol.

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[Rob Axel]

That was totally accidental!!!
But funny as SH*T!!!
.. I get your point..

 

[76TWIN]

I like the fact that with an EI system like this Gammatronix , it would take but a few connections to go back to points. Basically should it ever fail you can always go back to points and never be stranded.

I did run a PAMCO for quite a while and it worked great until it didn't and left me stranded on a side of the road one Saturday (a holiday weekend no less) afternoon.

 

[Rob Axel]

Out of curiosity.. how long was the system on your bike? Miles? And did you ever diognose what may have caused the unit to fail?

 

[76TWIN]

The PAMCO was on my bike for a bit over a year. The first time it stopped working I was able to trace the problem due to a couple loose and broken wires that were soldered onto the right cylinder pickup sensor and I was able to resolder them to get it working again. The second time (and last time) it stopped working it was one of the wires that was soldered onto the e-advancer board had also broken from the soldered joint. This I tried to fix but due to there being so little space to work with my fat fingers and a soldering gun I was not able to repair it successfully. Pete opted to refund me for the unit instead of exchanging for another since he said he didn't have one in stock.

If I could make a couple suggestions to make the PAMCO better and more reliable, it would be
1. Use larger gauge wires. The ones used on them now are tiny and way too flimsy IMO.
2. Potting the electronics to protect them from shock, vibration, and moisture. Hell, even some hot glue on the various stress points on the boards would help I think.

 

[76TWIN]

 

[Rob Axel]

Funny you say that.. I used a some hot glue in strategic places to eliminate movement and possible water entrusion..
Plus I added dense seat foam between the board and frame.

 

[76TWIN]

If that was my PAMCO and knowing what I know now I would also hot glue all the wires onto the board also. That should help relieve the stress on them.

 

[Lost_Cause]

I encase my circuit board in non-expanding foam on all sides

Also i sealed the blue box in silicone; and put locktite on the screws.

About to happen is the pamco itself will be vibration-dampened in it's mounting place

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[76TWIN]

Yeah it should help a lot IMO. You're basically potting the electronics as is with the foam and silicone.

 

[Rob Axel]

Gonna do more AFTER my warrenty expires...I had read about wires / solder joints coming loose, and after receiving my Pamco I inspected the connections, noticed where the cuircut board created a "wear spot" on the side of the box. I just wanted to give this system EVERY opportunity to work, survive, and eliminate a possible "weak point" before it surfaces..
I currently have it on my wifes CB450, she assisted in installing it. She swears it is like a new bike, (easier starts, better low idol, and more pickup)...
I will comfess.. I DIDNT adjust the cam chain or adjust the valves.... I also STILL havnt put a timing light on it.. did it by ear/feel.. I did however get new plugs...
I am currently on page 33 of 125 page Pamco thread... my hats off to Pete! He developed this system from the ground up.. and even progressed with e- advance. Only a couple of "unhappy" people..

 

[jd50i]

Make sure your sealant is electronic safe or doesn't smell like vinegar, it will corrode electronics.

 

[76TWIN]

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electronic-Grade-Silicone-Squeeze/dp/B0063U2RT8/ref=pd_sim_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0063U2RT8&pd_rd_r=ZD9GZYGZ5EPTXTTBYXE3&pd_rd_w=bmkf5&pd_rd_wg=Vedrj&psc=1&refRID=ZD9GZYGZ5EPTXTTBYXE3

 

[Lost_Cause]

Make sure your sealant is electronic safe or doesn't smell like vinegar, it will corrode electronics.

The silicone I only used on the outside of the box.
The inside doesn't have any sort of liquid sealant like the others have been talking about... just the solid foan.

Did you mean contact with the fiam itself?

I know that the foam is flame retardant & non-electrically conductive.

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[jd50i]

The silicone I only used on the outside of the box the inside doesn't have any sort of liquid sealant like the others have been talking about did you mean contact with the phone itself I know that the foam is flame retardant & non-electrically conductive.

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I really don't understand most of this.

The fumes from the sealant is what does the corroding.

 

[Lost_Cause]

Editted for clarity. Was multitasking.

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