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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,

Since synthetic oil is available on the market, the discussion about using this type of oil in older bikes is somewhat overheating now and then, despite the ability of oil in general to lubricate.

Clutches will slip, the viscosity is too low etc, breaking in is difficult etc, there are a lot of opinions, rumours and prejudices.

Personally, I don’t recognize any of those issue’s, regarding the fact that I always use these type of oils since they became available. Over the years I wrote a lot about using oils in my classic bikes, mostly on the Honda305 forum, sohc4 forum but also on this forum.

As you all know I ride a CB450 K0, got the bike when the odo showed 1533 miles from new. Since I don’t know if the odometer showed the correct mileage, I decided to build up an extra engine (K0), and use a full synthetic oil from mile 0 (also breaking in procedure).



The engine is build to Honda spec, with new cranck bearings (all rollers are replaced), nice but not new camshafts, new cam followers, and new valve springs (with the maximum torque). The valves and valve seats are milled to spec, the transmission is used, but all small parts are replaces, just as the clutch. The pistons are NOS, piston clearance is set to 0,015 mm.

The only thing that isn’t standard is an oil filter set-up from Cappellini, and the use of a CB500T oil pump (NOS). The reasons for using an oil filter setup from Cappellini is described in the text below, copied from the Honda305 forum (written by me).

Jensen

Maybe I wasn't clear why the spinner oil filter doesn't work as good as a paper filter, and I apologizes for that, I'll try to explain it in a better way.

The principal of a spinning oil filter seems to be simple but isn't when you look at the details.

The idea is that by centrifugal force particles are driven toward the edges of the filter where these particles will accumulate. Once in a while you clean the filter and the process starts over again.

The centrifugal force on the particles is depending on the circular speed of the filter and the weight of the particle and the distance of the particle from the center.

F[SUB]c[/SUB]= m*w[SUP]2[/SUP]*r

F[SUB]c[/SUB] is the centrifugal force
m is the mass of the floating particle
w is the circular speed
r is the radius or distance from particle toward the centre

In this particular case (honda 305) the w (circular speed) is not constant, it changes linear with the rpm, it's influence in the formula (thus on the particle) changes with the square of that.

The first experiences with full synthetic oil (5W20) I had were with Honda SS50 / CD50 engine.
I experienced that, when I used the oil, the engine was cleaned within a few hundred miles, and everything what was lying around in the cases would accumulate in the spinning filter (part of the clutch). So, in this case the spinning filter is working fine.

Later I experimented with full synthetic oil on larger engines (CB72) and found the same results.
The first conclusion was that the spinning filter works fine with full synthetic oil, so I started using this oil in a rebuild engine (and a new oil pump). Every 1000 km I cleaned the spinning oil filter and every 4000 km I changed the oil. After 12.000 km I was curious how the internals of the engine would look like, so I decided to open it up. Everything was in as new condition and measurements after 12.000 km where comparable with the initial values before installation.

So nothing wrong here ? Yes and no. I also inspected the oil pump and I found wear at the oil pump gears (as stated it was new 12.000 km ago). I checked with the oil pumps used in the
small displacement engines and there was no sign of wear. Time for looking for differences.

It took a while, but in the end I found the few reasons for the wear on the oil pump in the CB72 engine. The mean reason is the difference in construction between the oil filters, and I will explain with the formula above.

When I compared the values in this formula for the two engines I found a few differences.

Mass off the floating particles in both engines are (assumed) the same.

The radius of the area where the particle is (toward the centre) in the centrifugal filter is depending of the radius of the filter itself, and here I found a difference in construction. The radius of the small displacement engine is a little bigger then in a CB72, so the force on the particle is higher.

The circular speed (w) is depending on how fast the filter is turning around, and here I found the also construction differences. In the small displacement engine the oil filter is attached to the clutch (part of the clutch) and this clutch is directly attached to the crank. Therefore the speed of the filter is the same as the crank speed. In the CB72 it’s not directly attached to the crank but the power is transmitted by a chain. The chain gears on the crank and oil filter would be the same there isn’t any difference, but this is not the case. The filter runs with a higher speed then the crank, not much, just a little (24/22 teeth).

The difference in driving styles are also responsible for a difference in speed of the filter.
Since the crank speed is depending on the rpm, the rpm of the engine dictates the force (Fc) on the floating particle. I ride the small displacement engines with much higher revs as the CB72 engine, because of the lack on power at certain speeds. Where I tend to run my CD50 at a constant speed of 55 km/hour the engine is running over 7500 rpm. I calculated with an average of 7000 rpm. At the CB72 I’m not running this rpm as often as I do on the CD50. I calculated with an average rpm of 4500 for the CB72.

So, when we look at the impact on the force on the particle, with the data above :

Fc for the CB72 compared to the Fc for the CD50 :

Mass of particles is the same, so m[SUB]cb72[/SUB] = m[SUB]cd50[/SUB]

Radius of the CB72 is 0.8 of the CD50, so r[SUB]cb72[/SUB] = 0.8 r[SUB]cd50[/SUB]

Circular speed of the CB72 is 0.64 of the speed of the CD50, so 0.64 w[SUB]cb72[/SUB] = w[SUB]cd50[/SUB]

The construction factor between CB72 and CD50 is (24/22), so 1.09 w[SUB]cb72[/SUB] = w[SUB]cd50[/SUB].

When filled in :

F[SUB]c[/SUB] [SUB]cd50[/SUB]= m*w[SUP]2[/SUP]*r and F[SUB]c[/SUB] [SUB]cb72[/SUB] = m*((1.09*0.64)w)[SUP]2[/SUP]*0.9 r
F[SUB]c[/SUB] [SUB]cd50[/SUB] = m*w[SUP]2[/SUP]*r and F[SUB]c[/SUB] [SUB]cb72[/SUB] = 0.43 m*w[SUP]2[/SUP]*r

This means that the centrifugal force on a floating particle in the CB72 is a halve of the centrifugal force on the same particle in the filter of the CD50

A full synthetic oil is a very powerful detergent, it will clean the engine very good and drop the particles in the filter due to the above explained principal. The very small particles (like cool) are not filtered out by the filter, but don’t do any harm to the engine either.
But if the detergent power of the oil exceeds the influence of the Fc on the particles in the filter, these particles will not be held in the filter and start floating around in the oil.

This means that when the running speed of the engine is low (rpm) the oil starts cleaning the filter itself, and this is probably why I found wear to the oil pump gears. In the breaking-in process I never push the machine to it’s red line, so dirt collected in the filter was washed out and went through the pump.

The conclusion of the oil analyse was that there where a lot of particles floating around in the oil, which should be filtered out.

After this "discovery” I drained the oil more often, found less particles in the drained oil, and the oil pump stayed within specs.

This is the reason why I developed an oil pump with a paper filter, sometimes I like to ride low rpm’s (as a tourer) without the knowledge of ruining my oil pump, and I don’t want to change the oil every 1000 km or so.

I analysed the oil and after 2000 km, the oil is still good enough to use.

Like I stated earlier, with this oil filter solution I can use all the benefits of a full synthetic oil without the problems it causes at low revs.

So before you put a half synthetic / full synthetic oil into you engine, make sure that your oil filter is clean. If there's any sludge in your engine cases it will be (partly) washed out by the new oil and dropped into the spinner oil filter. Needless to say you have to check the oil filter within a very short period after using the new oil, depending on how clean the internals are.

I hope this explains a little more about the choices I made.
The test verdict is the new Castrol 10W-60 EDGE oil with FST (Fluid Strength Technology)

A few weeks ago I transplanted the engine in the bike, and filled her up with the test verdict.

In this thread I will rapport and write down how the engine behaves from day 1.


Disclaimer :

I don't have any relation with Castrol, other then customer. This test is done at my own costs, and own responsibility. I'm not responsible for any damage when other people try the same.



 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The breaking-in procedure:

From the first start I use the Castrol Full synth. 10W60 Edge. I assembled the engine with this oil, including the piston skirts and piston bore. Before I started the engine for the first time, I checked if the oil pump was working properly by turn the engine with starter motor untill the oil came at the cam followers (engine still out of the frame).

This oil will be in the engine for the first 5000 miles, the oil filter will be replaced at 1500 miles.
At 5000 miles I will replace the oil and filter. Of course I will keep the oil level constant by filling oil when necessary.

Since I have lot's of dynojet curves, compression ratings etc, from the other cb450 K0 engine I can compare both engines.

Jensen
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
100 miles report :

The carburettors were dialled in great, and I swapped them from the original engine to this one, this way I was sure that the engine wouldn't be too lean.
Filled the engine with oil, 3 mm above the highest point on the dip stick and started the bike. The engine did start quickly, but was running irregular, as expected, I had to adjust the idling because it wanted to stall every time.

Day1:

After warming up I rode 5 miles and did put it back to rest to cool down. Just a nice ride, keeping the needle of the rev-counter between 2k and 5K, using the first and second gear. Back home I inspected the bike, everything was doing well. Idling went from 1500 to 2000 rpm, so I adjusted it back to 1500rpm.

Day2:

After warming up I rode a nice 30 miles ride, in first, second and third gear, between 3K and 6K rpm. Back home I measured the oil temp, 93 degrees celcius, quit warm, but not something to worry about. Engine is running better, and I adjusted idle, because after the first longer ride the idle went from 1500 rpm to 3000 rpm (rings are getting seated). Oil level checked, was good.

Day3:

Early morning ride, 65 miles ride ahead of me. After warming up the bike, I kept the bike between 2,5K and 7K rpm, shifting constantly. Personally I don't like to drive at constant speeds when breaking in, so I went for some empty roads. Took the engine to 8k in second gear a few times, and went through all the gears. Back home I adjusted the idle from 2000 rpm to 1200 rpm and checked the oil level and added 50 cc of oil.

The first 100 miles were done, so time to inspect and re-torque the head and engine bolts. The next day (cold engine) I removed the gas tank, top engine hangers, air filters, carburettors and small parts, to make room for taking the valve covers off. After removing the covers I saw that the cams were fine, no damage or issue's here.

I always set the valve clearance of a new engine way beyond specification for the first start, and for a CB450 I set them to 0,10 mm (0.039 inch), better safe then sorry. It makes some extra noise, but I avoid the risk of damaging the cam shaft followers and cams. I lowered down the valve clearance to 0,06 mm (0.0023 inch) for the exhaust valves and 0,05 mm (0,0019 inch) for the intake valves. I narrow this gap down within 5000 miles to 0,04 mm (0,015 inch) for the exhaust valves, and 0,03 mm (0,011 inch) for the intake valves, while keeping an eye on wear at the backside / opposite of the (cam)lobes.

Before I install new or replacement cam's I always sand the backside / opposite of the cam lobe with sandpaper 1200, and make sure the structure is perpendicular to the rotation axis, this way it's easy to see if the cam follower touches the backside / opposite of the cam lobe. In my life I have seen enough butchered 450 cam's.

After re-torqued the head, I made sure that the ignition timing was spot on (statical) and lubricated the points and points cam. I measured the battery voltage (since the starter motor was hardly turning the engine, but it was a nice 13,06V, which is excellent. I adjusted the camchain adjuster, and did re-adjust the chain slap (secondary chain) to the rear wheel. After that I assembled everything again, ready for the next trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Somebody even interested in this thread ? Personally I don't see the point in spending time in a thread, when I also can ride bikes.
 

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Well that sure is a sweet looking bike!! Enjoy
 

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That's interesting I did respond yesterday but for some reason its not here now. I'm interested to see what happens as I would like feed back on that Oil filter system since there is very little on this site thus far. I would like to put one on my bike as I plan on riding mine, not working on it all the time.

AS it is Jensen and I know I tell a lot of new people this. Some times it takes time for threads to be responded to especially when they are as specific as this one was. It's been two days since your original post and so far you had 84 views, which is not bad.

If you like a mod can must remove this thread altogether, however I wish you would at least let us know your thoughts on that filter system either here or in another thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hi,

No worry's, and like I said, I would like to see some return on investment, writing a thread in an other language is time consuming, I can spend my time only once.
Most people on this forum are speaking English on a daily bases, the density on this forum with people who do not, is very thin.

What I'm wondering, does anyone understand what is written ?, I can't imagine that no one has questions.


Jensen
 

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Your English is near perfect.
The first time I checked it, all the text had been removed, but now I read through it.
Very interesting, thank you.
As said, it is a very specific topic and way above my head.
Great info for sure. Thanks
 

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I think the fact that you're posting an informative thread rather than asking a question contributes to lots of views but not a lot of responses. With all the discussions about oil over the years I find one with a fresh approach to be very interesting (guess I'm probably responsible for more than my share of the views). The concept of a more "modern" oil that works with our clutches is an option many of us didn't know we had.

I'm also kinda "old school" and new/rebuilt engines get oil changes an 100/500/1000 miles (or 5/25/50 hours). Did you use your current approach on new engines with "conventional" oils?
 

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Nice, informative break-in reporting. Sounds like things are going as expected.
I do have a question, though, which I couldn't find with a simple search: where does one find replacement oil filters? The Capellini site doesn't mention what filter is used, and I couldn't find a thread with replacements mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
@ WintrSol :
where does one find replacement oil filters? The Capellini site doesn't mention what filter is used, and I couldn't find a thread with replacements mentioned
The Cappelinni filter set-up uses a very common Suzuki filter, if you want I can provide the Suzuki part number This filter is also available at many after market filter manufacturers. It's is used in several Suzuki's like the Burgman 400, GN250 and many others.

@ J-T:
Did you use your current approach on new engines with "conventional" oils?
No, this approach is used at modern cars which are breaking in with this type of oil. The reason is that this type of oil is indeed very slippery, and if removed to soon, the engine won't break in. The very small metal parts are needed for the breaking in procedure, so they have to stay around for a longer period of time.

At the moment the idle speed is constantly increasing, and that's a good sign, meaning the rings are getting seated, the friction is lower than when started the breaking in procedure. The compression is also higher, which means that the efficiency is becoming better.





As I understand from your questions, the experiment / test covers more then the use of synthetic oil in this type of engine, and I feel I have to give some more background about the test set-up.

Things you are interested in :

- how does the Cappelinni filter set-up behave, this has ofcourse nothing to do with synthetic oil, but I will include it in the reports, the first report at 1500 miles.
- how does the clutch behave with this oil, does it slip ? After 5000 miles the bike will take the stand on the Dynojet, and clutch slip will be measured, if there's any.

Things that I am interested in :


Since the introduction of the torsion bar set-up in the CB450 models, the problems of excessive wear on the rocker arms and cam's is known and notorious. Since Castrol claims that the oil film of this type of synthetic oil with FST technology is much stronger under extreme conditions (pressure, temperature etc) I felt that Castrol did throw the gauntlet to me, as I picked it up.

If there is any oil on the market that would be capable of reducing wear on these typical problem area's, it will be this one.

Like I said earlier, I always use synthetic oil in fresh rebuild engines in my classic bikes, but this is the first time I use another breaking in method (because of the filter set-up) and it's the first time I use this type of synthetic oil with FST. It seems like an advertsiment / selling point, a marketing thing, but I think it's not. Castrol had to buy a complete oil company to get this technology (Castrol didn't developed this themselves), so my expectations are high.


My test-rig :

CB450 K0 engine, early type, standard (no modifications for gaining more power or torque). like I mentioned, I build this engine to Honda specs, meaning that every tolerance is within the Honda specification, or better. Standard CB450 K0 carbs are used, as the mufflers are standard K0 mufflers too. The bike has contact breaker points, standard ignition coils, and 5K resisters in the plug caps, spark plus are 7 instead of the more standard 8 (no R-type). The needles are 0,3 mm higher than standard, the rest is as Honda made it, all original.

What is new / done in the engine ?

- piston's and rings (0,25 mm over), the piston clearance is 0.015 mm (0.0006 inch), bores are bored and honed (two-step Plateau honed), see for more info: Cylinder Bore Surface Finishes - Engine Builder Magazine
- all cam followers are new, as I want to know precisely what's going on here.
- valve seats are cut, re-used the original valves, valves are re-cut too, the area between valve and seat is 1.0 mm wide (unleaded fuel here), seats are cut in three angles.
- valves are shortened according to the original set-up angle of the valve excenters
- all torsion springs are replaced by new ones, assuring the highest torque and the highest pressure just within specs.
- new clutch plates, metal plates are re-used, new clutch springs (standard length), I use the original six spring clutch.
- new oil pump (CB500T) with 19 mm diameter plunger (angled plunger type)

oil pump.jpg

- all small (springs, pin's, roller's etc) transmission parts are new, doesn't cost too much, and saves a lot of trouble.
- all oil seals are new, as the gaskets. all genuine Honda parts.
- new points and condenser.
- crank has new rollers and conrods (all of them, including big-end rollers and main bearing rollers)

As you can see, it's a standard rebuild, by the book.

It's always nice (and costly) to build something like this, hope the experiment is gonna be successful. The worst that can happen is that I have to re-hone, because of glazing. I don't expect heavy damage on parts, as I have a lot of experience with synthetic oil in older engines.

For comparison in the near future, here's an dynocurve of my CB450 K0 with the original engine (with 1200 miles on the odo). I'm curious how the new engine will behave compared to the original one :

CB450 K0 1965 powercurve and gas analyser.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
100-700 miles report

After building the bike back together (re-torque the head and first check on valve clearance / points etc), it was time to pick-up the break-in process further, but after a visit to the gas analyser. Adjusted both carbs, air screws and idling to a workable level. Left cylinder was a little lean, right cylinder was ok, after adjustment both cylinders worked together well, balanced the burning process until CO2, CO, and O2 were equal for both cylinders. Because of the fact that the left cylinder was a little lean the first 100 miles resulted in a slightly higher HC for the left side compared to the right. with other words, the left cylinder burns more oil then the right. This will resolve in the miles to come (hopefully), seen it before (CB72, and solved after 600 to 700 miles).

day 4:

At last, an opportunity to ride the bike to work and back, just to pick up some stuff. It's mainly highway, but fortunately it is always busy (one of the most traffic dense highways we have in the Netherlands, A1-A10-A4), so traffic is rather slow.
Before driving up to the highway I warmed up the bike carefully on back-roads, but after 10 miles, highway it was. The bike was accelerating good, and went to a smooth 80-90 km per hour (50-60 miles an hour) in fourth gear. At the office, the bike was hot, but everything went well. Another 100 miles covered

btw, it's funny how people respond to such a classic bike in modern traffic. I couldn't count the amazed / surprised faces of businessmen on the A10 (bypass road around Amsterdam), and received also many thums-up from (mostly) older people.

day 5:

At the weekend, a long ride to Friesland (northern province) for a KJMV ride (same as VJMC) was on the agenda, 150 km ride to Friesland, trip of 150-170 km, and 150 km back home, so at least 450 km (300 miles) on one day. Started the cold bike early (around 7.00 am) with a choke closed the bike started quickly. It ran better after the adjustments (more regularly), so off we went. The weather was moderate, no sun, but no rain either.

I went for the back road route the first 120 km, the last 30 km I took the highway. Constantly changing the speed is fun when you get used to it, and on the highway I touched 140 km/hour in fourth gear (85 miles/hour) for a few seconds, bike feld good. At arrival I choped the plugs (colour was good), and checked the oil level, had to ad another 50cc of oil. Aagin I lowered the idle speed, was around 2000, went to 1200 rpm. The KJMV ride was fun, but unfortunately a lot of (too much) youngsters and modern bikes were part of the ride. Next to that, it was going to slow ! I was riding at the rear end of the group, but as soon as we hit a provincial road, I opened the throttle to overtake the group. The CB450 K0 is a super sports, and should be ridden as such, meaning not lower then 3000-4000 rpm (otherwise the battery will discharged) and the bike is showing it's attitude.

After the KJMV ride I checked the battery, voltage was 13,23 V, that's very good. Good enough the ride back with lights on. Left Friesland at 7 pm, so the last hour through the dark. At the way home I took the highway the first 30 km, and for the rest the back roads. At home the battery was showing 12,45 V, so slightly discharged compared to the solid 13,23 V before the ride.

The complete electrical system is bone stock, including rotor, stator and rectifier. Since this is the best rotor I have, I decided to buy signal LED lights, and a combined (5/21W) tail light led light too.

Day 6:

Rode the bike round town, another 50 miles on the odo. Not much to tell, engine runs stable now, idling is steady, no smoke, no strange noises. It makes 600 miles in total after the first start.

Day 7:

Took the bike for a spin the afternoon, and at Bilthoven, accelerating from a traffic light the bike suddenly stuttered. I dropped the throttle, and the stuttering went, but as soon I opened the throttle the stuttering was there again. The bike wouldn't speed up, and I limped to a parking lot. I immediately thought that my contact breakers were dirty, so I took off the cover, but the contact breaker was clean. Checked a few other things but couldn't find anything weird or unusual. Started the bike again, the stuttering was gone, but I didn't trust it, so went for home the shortest route. Took the highway, and went to an average speed of 60 miles an hour, and everything seemed ok. Opened the throttle, and suddenly the bike started to stutter and finally shut down completely. Letting the bike roll to the emergency lane, I started to get a little frustrated. I decide to replace the condenser, because it seemed the ignition was the culprit (I always carry a few spares with me, like inner tyre, breaker points, condenser etc). Found a nice spot at the end of an exit and took my tools to get take the gas tank off. First I closed the fuel cock, and wanted to remove the petrol hose's from the fuel cock until my eye was distracted by the choke lever on the carb. The lever wasn't on it's on position, nor off position, it was somewhere at 20% choke. I immediately put the chock to it's original position and started the bike. After a little coughing and stuttering the bike ran. Did put the tools back in my tank bag and took the first driveway to the highway, everything ok. At home I saw that the little screw, which holds the spring that holds the choke lever was loose, the choke lever wasn't held in position, opening itself because of the vibrations.

Afterwards it was logical that the bike ran well after the first stop, cooled down, the mixture was a little rich, but as soon the bike warmed up on the highway, and with full throttle, the spark plus immediately fooled again.

Why didn't I pulled he plugs ?, as I would have directly noticed that the bike was running way to rich. The reason that I didn't check them is that in my world plugs don't fool, using iridium 7 plugs, it's almost impossible to get fooled plugs. The last time I had fooled plugs was ages ago......, in a time that people used non iridium plugs (can you imagine that ?). Why didn't I think of the mixture being too rich ? Because I measured the mixture with a 4 gas analyser, resulting in an almost perfect mixture, knowing it was ok. The only "old" technology was the condenser, and in my mind it was the only possibility of the failure, being the culprit.

Lesson learned ! Always have an open mind when it comes to finding faults, and not make a short list of possibility's, based on prejudices !!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes, it's annoying. Did fix it (bend the spring, and secured the little screw with loctite), this won't happen again !
 

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Discussion Starter #18
@Wintrsol : Suzuki part is 16510-05240 I bought a few spares, the idea is to change the filter every 2000 km or so, maybe earlier, maybe later, has to be determined.

oil filter.jpg

and this is how it's looking like :

oil filter_2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Day 8:

Today I rode the bike all day long. The weather was fantastic, sunny warm and of course dry ! Did another 200 miles trip, that makes 900 in total after the first start. Here a picture of the bike after the ride :

CB450 in the september sunlight.jpg

As I have two piece mufflers with single walled exhasut manifold, the manifolds are getting really blue after a ride, nothing to worry about. On the picture above the Cappellini filter set-up is very visible, but not really disturbing, detail picture of the Cappellini set-up :

cappelinni oil filter setup.jpg

Today was also a day for testing the stability of the battery voltage. Earlier I wrote that the battery voltage dropped significant during riding (with/without lights), and I decided to replace some bulbs by LED's. For comparison I made a small overview :

no lights on :


ignition (constant factor, so not necessary to know)
neutral light (4W), hardly used (now 0,3W)
brake light (21W)

Lights on (low):

ignition (constant factor, so not necessary to know)
neutral light (4W), hardly used (now 0,3W)
brake light (21W)

Plus:

back light speedo (2 times 4W), now 2 times 0,3W
tail light (5W)
headlight (25W)

this is a energy saving of 8-0,6 = 7,4W

Lights on (high beam):


ignition (constant factor, so not necessary to know)
neutral light (4W), hardly used (now 0,3W)
brake light (21W)

Plus:

back light speedo (2 times 4W), now 2 times 0,3W
tail light (5W)
headlight (35W)
indicator high beam light (4W), now 0,3W

this is a energy saving of 12-0,9 = 11,1 W (almost 1A constant current draw at 12,64V)
The tail/brake light conversion adds another 4,5W to it (tail), plus 19W (brake)

I replaced the indicator lights (neutral and high beam) and speedo back light only, as the tail light conversion to LED's is more expensive, and (probably) not according to the rules. I chose a green LED for the neutral, Amber LED for the high beam, and warm white (2700K) for the speedo back light. This way I safe a little when the lights are off (only neutral). The high beam saves the most, 2 backlights, 1 neutral and one high beam indicator.

Before riding off this morning I measured a 12,34 V, not low, but not high either. After return I measured again, and measured 12,64 V. For the moment I decided not change the tail light, simply not necessary. btw, I also carry the Garmin, which consumes a 300 mA, an extra load of 4W.

solid battery votage.jpg

I already took my precautions a few weeks ago in case the original rectifier isn't sufficient, but I won't install it yet, maybe later. It's a 25A/100V bridge rectifier which is (a little) more efficient than the original part. The original engine for this bike carry's a self made three phase generator and a voltage regulator. It works good, but this engine has a very nice rotor and stator, letting the other engine in one piece, as a replaceable unit.

upgrade not yet made.jpg

Personally I wanted to see the original set-up work, which it does, here's a picture:

bone stock.jpg

And a more detailed picture of the rectifier. It's amazing this piece of technologie is still working, after 48 years ! I'm astonished, really I am. It does not get really hot, this is because the balancing set-up between battery and rectifier, combined with the coil switching set-up. The system is engineered in a way there is just enough power,

original rectifier.jpg

To make quick tests possible, I did put some extra wires between generator and main harness, also for testing / making the double coil upgrade (pink/yellow wire parallel), but it seems it's not necessary either, since the battery holds it's voltage in the original set-up. After the breaking-in I'll remove the extra wires, and connect the generator direct to the main harness, saving another small transition resistance introduced by the extra connectors.

It seems odd, but every connector, especially on older bikes like this introduces an small power-loss. If the resistance of a connector would be 0,1 ohm (very realistic at these bikes / connectors, and in many cases more), the voltage drop over the connector is (at 1A) 1*0,1= 0,1 V, which results in a power loss of 0,1 W per connector. The amount of connectors is way over 30 (including switches), resulting in a total loss of 3W. In case of the generator to harness, the voltage is much higher then 12 V, the current too, resulting in a higher loss.

A moderate connector can have a 0,5 ohm resistance or higher, resulting in a 15W loss.

testwires between harness and generator.jpg

The ride itself :

I did back roads (around 75 miles), small towns (around 25 miles). highway 100 km/hour (62miles/hour and 6000 rpm) for 85 miles and highway 130 km/hour (83 miles/hour and 7800 rpm) for 15 miles. Switched between lights out, lights on and high on (low) and high beam.

At 80-85 miles an hour the engine runes really well, but I soon will replace the rear sprocket for a smaller one, maybe 2 or 3 tooth smaller, because when you only look at the throttle the bike start to accelerate. As a part of my breaking-in procedure I did a few hard accelerations, but not yet full throttle. The highest reached speed today was 145 km/hour, or 90 miles an hour, just for a few seconds, not full throttle and I had left at least 500 rpm to the red. The speeds are measured at my Garmin, so real speeds. The speedo itself is a little off at higher speeds, around 10 miles :eek: (on the speedo I was doing 100 something).

Within the a few hundred miles I can really start to explore what the engine is capable off at top speeds, and at last I can accelerate full throttle ones or twice for the first time :)

Miscellaneous :

During breaking in I also tested several routes for the fuel lines (mainly for the left carb), and the situation as pictured works best for me. The bike immediately starts on two cylinders when cold. The fuel line for the left carburettor runs behind the right carburettor, but over the air filter attachment, then down directly to the left carburettor.

petcock to carbs wiring.jpg

These are the muffles / baffles after the ride, very dry (this was the case from mile 1), and almost equally coloured (this wasn't the case in an earlier stage, the left side tended to appear a little lighter).

left muffler.jpg

left mufler.jpg

btw :

- oil level is good, didn't need to refill, at least not measurable.
- clutch is not slipping, but I didn't yet accelerate at full throttle.
- oil temp directly after the ride (the last 10 miles were on highway) was 96 degrees, outside temp was 21 degrees, no wind and low humidity.
 

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Thanks for the filter part number, and close-up on the filter installation. Doesn't look bad, especially considering the good it does.
Have you read the section on the selenium rectifier in the service manual? Don't get it wet, or expose it to temperatures over 30C for any length of time, and, if let sitting, they start to leak, so slowly increase the voltage on one that hasn't been used for years, to recondition it.
 
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