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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1986 Honda CMX450 Rebel,this may sound silly but what other Honda forks will fit this bike to raise the front end a bit and offer stiffer front end movement?
 

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Sensei
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You could improve the damping by using slightly more or heavier fork oil.....and/or heavier springing....
Forgive me me but I'm amused as I'm considering putting a CMX 450 front end on my VT750 DC to Streamline the appearance.....
Stem lengths are different, and I've yet to examine what all would be involved with the bearings,etc........
You may phone to discuss if you'd like.....540-525-5199.....Steve
 

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There are these also, pricing may be better and as a Rebel owner you need to know of this parts source.

All 450 Honda Rebel parts and accessories

I'm looking for something like these, that will bolt on in place of your existing fork caps to extend your forks the few inches you need :

https://lowandmean.com/product/honda-fury-3-fork-extenders/

I haven't found any that'll fit your 37mm forks, but I found a reference on another forum where someone had a set of extended fork caps like this made up for his 450 Rebel by a local machinist. It doesn't look all that hard, maybe ask around for some quotes? Certainly cheaper than new fork tubes if you don't need them.
 

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Sensei
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SLUGS, (which is what those "long fork caps" used to be called back in the day) are to be AVOIDED...
They place considerable shear stress (unsupported) at their joint between the lower bracket and the top bridge
(commonly referred to as "upper and lower triple trees")
and were known to break apart SO FREQUENTLY that they were outlawed in several states....
(Think of it as at least equivalent to the danger of riding with cracked top bridge clamps)
The exemplar aluminum ones would be particularly dangerous as the dissimilar metals also would invite galvanic corrosion,
and/or premature thread failures, additionally weakening the joint and possibly expediting failure......

JMHO......
 

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Thanks 66, that explains why I could only find them for a few models.

Strangely though I did find them for several sportbikes (of all things) but the lengths varied from just 5 to 15 mm. These were purposed to raise trail length resulting in marginally slower steering but much improved straight line stability. I suppose its a factor that can be useful when tuning a bike for a specific track.
 

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Sensei
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Ones that are short enough that the joint would be within the "pinched"/clamped area of the bridge would be fine....The tubes are still clamped in both "trees"....
It is only problematic structurally when the joint is subjected to shear forces in an area where the two components joint can flex which is basically anywhere below the bridge

(I should note that the slugs that generally failed were typically six inches or longer, seriously "extending" the forks)
 
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