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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to the forum, and I appear to have put my post in the introduction section. Sorry about that...

I am the fortunate new owner of an all original CB160 that is need of new fork seals. For the life of me I cannot get the uppers and lowers apart, and I don't want to do any damage in trying. The fork seal holding upper does thread into the lower, right? I have tried a half dozen heat cycles and sprayed a gallon of WD40 into the upper to try and get some lubricant into the threads, but I'm starting to think that maybe they're not threaded. I fashioned a pin wrench to use in the four holes that hold the dust seal, but still no success.

I would appreciate it if someone would point me in the right direction on this project. I suppose once I get them apart my next big challenge will be to get the old seals out and find replacements. Ah, first things first...

Thanks for any offers of assistance.

...Brent
 

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Welcome Brent - and don't apologize, at least you actually posted in the introduction section... so many now just want what they want and get right to the point, no pleasantries. I got into these bikes when they were current and I was a young man, but unfortunately just after the 160s were commonplace and so I never worked on any of them in my dealership days. There are many here with great experience on them who will be along to help soon...
 

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I'm new to the forum, and I appear to have put my post in the introduction section. Sorry about that...

I am the fortunate new owner of an all original CB160 that is need of new fork seals. For the life of me I cannot get the uppers and lowers apart, and I don't want to do any damage in trying. The fork seal holding upper does thread into the lower, right? I have tried a half dozen heat cycles and sprayed a gallon of WD40 into the upper to try and get some lubricant into the threads, but I'm starting to think that maybe they're not threaded. I fashioned a pin wrench to use in the four holes that hold the dust seal, but still no success.

I would appreciate it if someone would point me in the right direction on this project. I suppose once I get them apart my next big challenge will be to get the old seals out and find replacements. Ah, first things first...

Thanks for any offers of assistance.

...Brent

I'm riding CB125 from 1972. Last year I have done fork oil and seals replacement. The main problem was removing upper, chromed tube. It is installed with L-shaped groove which fits pin at the bottom part of the fork. It was quite difficult to turn this tube and pull this apart. I have asked local workshop for assitance in that task.

It's at 2:45

Maybe this is Your case.
 

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The chrome seal holders are threaded onto the lowers. Unfortunately, corrosion sets in between the steel housing and the aluminum lower. There is a Honda tool that fits into two of the holes in the housing to help turn it, but many people make their own. There is a thread on the Honda 305 site about making those tools, but I can't find it. I have had similar difficulties with CB77 and CB450k0 seal housings, which are just about the same. Patience, judicious use of heat and lubricant, a bench vise and a good tool for turning the housing are what you need. Some people have had luck with a pipe wrench padded with pieces of rubber, but many have damaged their chrome housings.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BSA-Triump...h:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateEnvelope!40165!US!-1

Here is a link to the Honda 305 thread. It is for CL77 forks, but the tool and the process are the same.
Honda305.com Forum :: View topic - Front fork disassembly
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for responding. Can the fork seals be removed after removing the circlip? I continue to heat and reheat the fork seal holder, and the WD40 is beginning to seep out, but the doggone thing still refuses to budge. It's funny that that tool on eBay references the BSA 441. I own one of those, which I rebuilt. Never needed this tool to rebuild the forks....

Thanks again for your assistance.
 

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Once upon a time I used bearing balls and radiator hose clamps to get them loose. Get four bearing balls that are just a little bigger than the diameter of the holes in the seal holders and hold them in place in the holes with several wraps of masking tape. Put a gear drive automotive hose clamp around the row of balls and tighten it as much as you can, the balls should be making dents on the id of the hose clamp. Secure the fork leg in a vise and put on a pipe wrench so one of the jaws is against the screw on the clamp and turn. The masking tape will protect the chrome and the clamp/balls will give the pipe wrench enough traction to turn without slipping.
 

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Once upon a time I used bearing balls and radiator hose clamps to get them loose. Get four bearing balls that are just a little bigger than the diameter of the holes in the seal holders and hold them in place in the holes with several wraps of masking tape. Put a gear drive automotive hose clamp around the row of balls and tighten it as much as you can, the balls should be making dents on the id of the hose clamp. Secure the fork leg in a vise and put on a pipe wrench so one of the jaws is against the screw on the clamp and turn. The masking tape will protect the chrome and the clamp/balls will give the pipe wrench enough traction to turn without slipping.
Good idea! Sure can't hurt to try. I've had a 160 leg on the bench for a few months now putting off making a pin spanner till a suitable piece of scrap turns up.
 

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001.JPG
I made one out of a piece of thick wall steel tubing and some bolts. Drilled and tapped holes in the tubing, ground down the ends of two 3/8" bolts, two 1/2" bolts for handles.
 
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