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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
has anyone upgraded their 450 k-whatever front disc brakes to something more current? i'm not necessarily looking to keep things stock, or even stock looking. i actually really like this look below. according to the bike's site: Brembo front disc. Brembo front caliper. ABM steelbraided brakehose. that means almost nothing to me so sure, i'm gonna go goggle those now. but anybody wanna chime in with any thoughts?
 

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Sensei
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Brembo= Quality, and VERY good, (but hold on to your wallet!)... It would be just as expensive (or inexpensive) to put late model SOHC 750F forks with dual piston Honda calipers right into the 450 trees, and have your rotor drilled..... Braided stainless lines (hoses) are a good and 'clean' looking upgrade...JMHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks. any idea how i might decipher their application list for my 450? to be completely naive, what size is my front disc AND is that how disc brakes are typically measured, by disc radius? i'm not trying to be lazy here i just really don't know what i'm looking for. if you (steve) felt like putting together a shopping list for me i'll give you my old front brake set up? probably just disc and caliper, right?
 

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There is a newer "floating" style of rotor that will bolt onto a 450 with no mods. I saw it somewhere on the net, but I can't remember for the life of me what model it came from. A person could try searching the SOHC board as the hubs and rotor bolt pattern is virtually identical. So anything that fits a CB750 would fit the 450. Offset and outside diameter would be your only concerns..

VFR something rotors maybe?? I can't remember.. :oops:

Yamaha XS rotors have the same bolt pattern as the Hondas so any "bolt on" kits available for the XS series would likely fit the 450.. I'd hate to spend too much trying it out though..

You can upgrade to dual discs on the 450 and it's not a terribly difficult process..



GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
wow. sounds exactly like what i'm looking for GB. floating rotor is the style i want. if you remember more details please keep me posted. i'll research with what little info i have from my end.

-seth
 

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If you're looking for the floating style rotor to use with your mods, then a search of the SOHC site would probably be your best bet. I'm not over there much at all anymore..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
are the homer awards still active here? is this disc on backwards? which way is right side out? the side i have facing out has the rivets connecting the disc to the mounting bracket slightly more "in-set" than the flipside...

i'm over the floating discs for a while...

-seth
 

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uhohferris said:
are the homer awards still active here? is this disc on backwards? which way is right side out? the side i have facing out has the rivets connecting the disc to the mounting bracket slightly more "in-set" than the flipside...

i'm over the floating discs for a while...

-seth
Mate before spending $$$$ swap your Brake master cylinder for one of these (see link)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT-BR ... ccessories

then replace your front brake line for a modern braided line (plastic coated), you MAY have to get it custom made (i do in OZ) as the nut that screws into the caliper is unique to the caliper. lastly look for some soft pads or buy some old stock "Asbestos" ones and live with the fear :cool:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT-BR ... ccessories

And lastly you can drill the front disc all this will help and the brake will become allot better



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thats awesome otr. i would like to pick up a new lever and master cylinder and probably will from your source. braided lines are def happening as well.

but. still. is my disc on backwards? i still can't tell? these photos aren't much better but can anyone confirm? am i homer or bart?

othed mod updates:
pretty proud of my rear-peg/muffler bracket removal today as well. quick coat of primer just to seal that bare metal. angle grinders are fun. i also chopped the rear fender mounting brackets as i plan to return the frame tube back into itself. frame is upside dow obviously with swing arm removed. should be interesting as i don't weld. maybe magic will work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
and this is why i ask about the disc being backwards...

did i put this back together correctly? how do i adjust my pads to not rub? is there any adjustment here what have i done wrong as my front wheel isn't spinning?
 

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uhohferris said:
ut. still. is my disc on backwards? i still can't tell? these photos aren't much better but can anyone confirm? am i homer or bart?
All good :D you just need to adjust the caliper to suit. :)



Rod from OZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
NO WAY! rod, it looks like i put the bolt inside with the spring! your picture confirms this!!!! thats why i cant adjust this damn thing!!! thanks for posting.

you guys are ALL awesome.
 

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uhohferris said:
NO WAY! rod, it looks like i put the bolt inside with the spring! your picture confirms this!!!! thats why i cant adjust this damn thing!!! thanks for posting.

you guys are ALL awesome.
Yep that'll do it every time :lol: You hold the nut and screw the bolt (in or out) to adjust ;)

Rod from OZ :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
its working P E R F E C T L Y now. thanks again!
 

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uhohferris said:
its working P E R F E C T L Y now. thanks again!
That's great, you know where we are, call any time :roll: Homer :lol:

Rod from OZ :cool:
 

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From in to out: the countersink head screw goes through the floating caliper mount (which has to be free to swing - I shoot a little chain oil on the pivot - then wipe off the excess - when I oil the chain), then through the spring between the floating mount and the fork leg attachment point. The screw threads into that. The nut goes on the outside of the fork leg attachment point to lock the adjustment screw. No washer.

The way this functions: the head of the screw in the floating mount limits how far it can retract from the rotor (keep in mind that this is the fixed pad side of the caliper) and the spring allows it (mount, caliper & pad) to be drawn toward the rotor when the piston side applies pressure to its side. When you release the brakes, the spring pushes the fixed pad (the floating arm) back away from the rotor. you adjust it by turning the screw so that there's a very small clearance between the inner pad and the rotor when the brakes aren't applied, and you lock it in this position by means of the nut on the outside. It requires infrequent but periodic re-adjustment.
 

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KERRY said:
The way this functions: the head of the screw in the floating mount limits how far it can retract from the rotor (keep in mind that this is the fixed pad side of the caliper) and the spring allows it (mount, caliper & pad) to be drawn toward the rotor when the piston side applies pressure to its side. When you release the brakes, the spring pushes the fixed pad (the floating arm) back away from the rotor. you adjust it by turning the screw so that there's a very small clearance between the inner pad and the rotor when the brakes aren't applied, and you lock it in this position by means of the nut on the outside. It requires infrequent but periodic re-adjustment.
Great discerption on how it all works :) typical Honda engineering they think of everything and it works :!:

Rod from OZ :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
anyone know of a supplier of a stainless steel braided (non-coated) brake line replacement for my dried up old rubber line with all the weirdo brackets and 'brakes' in it. that means, the proper length and suited for my stock set up. i'd keep my existing master cylinder and caliper but i'll upgrade if i have to...
 
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