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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have my CB350 in for its yearly MOT and I have an issue with the rear brake light staying on when the lever is depressed, due to the lever not returning fully to its off position. When you release the lever, it does not return fully causing the brake light switch to stay on.

I can see that there is some play in the brake arm lever. I’ve adjusted the brakes as much as I can, but the play seems to be in the lever itself, not the shoes, so I am wondering if it is the return spring or in the linkage?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

My plan is tackle it this weekend
 

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Maybe it's time to disassemble the brake backing plate and clean/lube the brake cam pivot shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi, thanks for the replies and sorry for any confusion caused by my first post. The issue is with the slack in the front brake lever at the right hand side handlebar, not returning fully and so keeping the switch closed causing the rear brake light to remain on.

J-T - I think you’re right about the return spring, but on the front I think it is part no.14...

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb350k4-general-exportkmh_model16399/partslist/F04.html#results

Mike - I agree, and i’m planning on removing the wheel this weekend to do some balancing, as I have a small wobble at 30mph. I will strip it down at the same time. Other than greasing the pivot points, should I be looking out for anything else?

The front hub has two cams linked together. I was wondering if making any adjustments to the length of linkage would help?
 

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The wobble at 30 mph probably has nothing to do with balancing... take a close look at your front tire tread. If it's worn unevenly or high in the middle from running too low a pressure for too long, it will shake its head at 30 to 35 mph speeds all day long no matter how well balanced the wheel is
 

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The wobble at 30 mph probably has nothing to do with balancing... take a close look at your front tire tread. If it's worn unevenly or high in the middle from running too low a pressure for too long, it will shake its head at 30 to 35 mph speeds all day long no matter how well balanced the wheel is
It's pretty much a 'design feature' of most bikes
Rear wheel balance can cause front end 'shimmy' at low speeds plus a multitude of other little things. Bad steering bearings (or badly adjusted) are another cause
 

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I wouldn't adjust the link between the two levers. The brake shoes have bedded in together, mess with that link and you will only one shoe contacting the drum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the tips on the wheel wobble.

Mike - i’ll leave the link alone. I’ll grease up the moving parts and see if that helps the arm return fully. After that i’ll have to order in a new spring.
 

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You'll probably have to pull the cams out to clean out any old grease plus the rust and alloy oxidation
Don't loose or damage the felt washers, they will probably be hard and dry but soaking in oil will 'restore' them (engine oil is fine).
No need to disconnect the link rod, you can fit the operating arms individually pretty easy
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thanks crazypj. That was good advice. I’ve just stripped, cleaned, greased, oiled and rebuilt the hub. The felt washers were in pretty good shape all things considered. I also rerouted and lubed the brake cable, as there was quite a tight bend in it. Now it works perfectly, with the lever returning fully. Job done. Thanks for all the help everyone.
 

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I think you got 'lucky' with MOT, seems next month the are not required on 40+yr old vehicles?
I was a tester for several years in 80's and stuck by 'spirit' of the rules except on safety equipment (tyres/brakes, bearings, fork seals, suspension)
Judging by some of the 'British' posts, MOT was a a joke on older bikes for several years?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, it seems pretty wild. I’ve got a cb250 (amongst others) i’ve been desperately working on, but could just apply for exemption in May and ride it in whatever state it’s in. Not sure how it will affect second hand sales? I usually count on getting non runners cheaply and getting them roadworthy myself. Guess that’s not a thing anymore?

I have a ‘57 VW van that’s exempt, but I still take it to a guy to have it inspected every year, and get all the necessaries regreased and adjusted. This CB350 has a bit of a dubious past from its PO and I will put it through the MOT for the sake of £22 to make sure it’s okay and then exempt it next year. Probably the same thing with the 250 too. It seems fairly lawless and slightly reckless, but I imagine it’s for all those posh types with their Aston Martins and E-types who can’t get them through the emissions tests!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also, it’ll be interesting to see how the ‘substantial changes’ criteria will eventually affect the custom scene? Looks like it is only in effect for cars, but I imagine hard tailing, or welding loops even, will mean choppers and cafes will all need MOT’s still?
 

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I don't know when Florida stopped doing vehicle inspections? It was before I got here in 1998. You don't see much real junk anymore, traffic is so bad and insurance so crazy people tend to have good brakes and tres even if everything else is screed up. I actually saw a guy driving down I-4 holding the roof down as it had rotted along the gutters on a rusty 70's '3 box brick'I first thought it was a convertible :eek: Probably only wanted the v-8 engine and transmission?
 
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