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Discussion Starter #3
Here are the photos. Not sure why you can see them? Will try this.
"cam chain tension roller" yep, that it could be...........







 

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That is what it looks like! I could not view pics on my phone, but see them on my desk computer.

I am thinking you may be able to change it without tearing down the engine--maybe remove it by removing the tensioner set up behind the cylinders. You can get ones from longer lasting materials now days. I had to have one replaced on my CL350. Used a 'slipper' model (I don't recall why it was better) and had to tear it down to slightly machine the opening for it to fit. It was several years ago and my memory is foggy. Replace it now before you have internal problems.

Please keep us informed on this for further reference.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks Jack. will find out what else if anything else needs to be done at the same time. And to go back with stock rubber, or something else.
Am sure folks will chime in and share their thoughts. It sucks, as its the middle of summer and ride it almost daily. LOL LOL
Will have to lean on his younger brother till its worked out.


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Discussion Starter #7
Looks like the barrel has to be lifted to install........... Is that right? Thanks...........
 

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Sadly, the whole top end has to come apart. You can't remove it without taking the head and cylinders off, and that can't be done in the frame. Though it is starting to disintegrate, it isn't the end of the world quite yet - as long as the cam chain still sounds normal and properly adjusted, it could be run for a while... but it is inevitable, for sure. Bigger chunks will keep coming off the roller and will end up in the bottom, but the good news is the screen on the oil pump will keep the pieces out of the oil flow. We've seen cam chain tensioner rollers here that were half their normal size when the new owner tore it down, and it was running or had been run not long before - so you could enjoy it until the weather gets cold and then have a project for the winter. Nice SL350K0, by the way :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks Tom, have been picking up a few 70 NOS parts for a while now. Plan to go through it "someday".........
Just wasn't planning on doing it "today". As I am in the middle/end stage of a 3 month 74 C&J XL350 resto. Engine apart, etc.
No, it's not really making any funny noises, so 100 miles or so over the next couple months sounds good to me.
But will keep an ear on it. :D And start gathering a few more parts.......... Thanks

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My daily putt....
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Perry - I looked closer at the pics and you're right, one of the pics of the caliper holding it does look like a piece of hose... weird, because the pic not in the caliper looks flat and that's why it looked like a piece of the tensioner roller to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Sorry, didn't see the replies. Here are some better photos. Not fuel hose. Hope these pics help.....

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Looks like it might be part of the raised rib, maybe 1/2 of the raised rib from this photo of a new part. (I dont yet have)

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Discussion Starter #16

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I'd be surprised if you needed the shaft and bushing for it... maybe some of the more 350-familiar guys can weigh in on it, but I can't say I've ever seen the need to replace those two parts, usually just the tensioner roller/arm and the center roller (and maybe the little rubber end pieces but not always those either in my experience)
 

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When it comes time to replace, would love to follow along. I know I have that in my future.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Found this........ might be all thats needed.? (link below) Only $16.00 / 14 euro...
Am going to start getting the parts together for the overhaul.
Runs great, 10800 orig miles. 4000 have been from me. But is probably just time.
And need to be careful as KO parts and K1 parts often get clumped together.
Is there a post or a spot for info that shows engine parts that interchange?
Gasket sets? Seals etc?

https://www.cmsnl.com/products/roller-camchain_14601312000/#.W3nHcc5Kh1s

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A couple things: first, I'd replace both pieces if it were mine, so you don't have the tensioner coming back to bite you later (since you're already there) and second, you'll pay more from cmsnl.com for the shipping for that roller than for the part itself - roughly double, in fact. For some reason the shipping from The Netherlands is really high.

As for seals, the tach drive seal and the cam seal behind the advancer would be good to do in the top end. No valve stem seals on the 350, and I think a top end gasket set would come with the O-rings for the valve covers but if not, might as well do those too since they can weep a bit once they're old, hard and flattened out. Just use a site like cmsnl.com or Western Honda to find the fiches for both years and compare parts and part numbers
 
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