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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Adjusting the ignition timing of my K1 CB450, the bolt used to turn the flywheel (stator) came loose. I tightened it by giving back-pressure with the kickstarter- this doesn't seem to be right, though, because it's causing the washer on the bolt to deform, like it's over tightening.
Also, virtually every time I turned the flywheel in the proper direction (counterclockwise), it it kept coming loose. I was able to more-or-less finish my ignition timing, but it's not exact and I can't get a good grip on the flywheel to keep it steady.

Is there a way to properly tighten this bolt? :confused:

Thanks!
 

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That bolt gets about 24 lb-ft, which should be in range of a good strap wrench holding the rotor. Also, there is no washer under the bolt, as it should be a flange head bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What if you put it in 3rd and apply the rear brake?
Good idea!

That bolt gets about 24 lb-ft, which should be in range of a good strap wrench holding the rotor. Also, there is no washer under the bolt, as it should be a flange head bolt.
Interesting. There is definitely a washer there I suppose from my dear PO. Is it safe to remove the bolt to take the washer off?
 

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I'd take a look at a parts diagram and get the correct bolt. It has a pretty big flange on it. Sounds like the proper one may have been misplaced.
 

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My parts list shows the Honda part number as 90014-286-000, but unlike other bolts, doesn't give the size. Other data I have says it is an M8; you may get lucky at a hardware store, as long as the flange fits the space. Perhaps measure the depth, and get one almost as long as the hole is deep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here is a picture of the bolt and the stator rotor. Looks like I'll need a fairly large flange bolt indeed.

Will report on what bolt works.

Thank you for the part number!

IMG_1479.jpg
IMG_1480.jpg
 

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If it loosens if you use the correct torque, perhaps try some blue loctite in there. But it is best to use a heat gun when you remove it afterwards (and probably easiest to remove with the pneumatic impact gun). Repairing crankshaft threads can be very costly (but still definitely better to use loctite, than too much torque)...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I appreciate the words of caution. Locktite is a good idea. I just picked up a proper flange bolt at my local hardware store for $1. Looks better than what was on there!
 

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Yeah it looked odd to me too then I realized it was the deformed washer sitting on it. It also has CL450 stamped in it.

The correct bolt has a larger flange than that new one you bought. Like this

engine.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you all for your help and guidance while I troubleshooted this. I tried a couple different bolts before I found one that fit perfectly. The standard flange size I found at my hardware store, while looking smaller than the original bolt to some of you, worked perfectly on my rotor. It may have only fit due to the "deformed washer" that is sitting on my rotor, but I couldn't pry the washer off, so because it wasn't affecting rotor function, I just left it in place.

The bolt that I found worked best was completely threaded and specified as follows:
Steel Hex Flange Screw 10.9
M8-1.25 x 35MM zinc.

I installed it with blue loctite to 24 ft. lbs by putting the bike in 3rd gear with the back wheel on the ground and brake applied.

Good luck!
 

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that looks like it will contact the rotor cover? The OEM Honda Bolt has a large flange and is low profile and it only just clears the cover once it is bolted on, if there is any side to side crank movement it grinds on the cover which is a good indication of a crank in need of a rebuild but your stacked setup might contact the cover as it is, check it for clearance. This is stuff that I prefer to avoid "that'll do" solutions, keep a close eye on it if you want to run it like that.
 

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Just FYI;

Stator- Stationary
Rotor- Rotating
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
that looks like it will contact the rotor cover? The OEM Honda Bolt has a large flange and is low profile and it only just clears the cover once it is bolted on, if there is any side to side crank movement it grinds on the cover which is a good indication of a crank in need of a rebuild but your stacked setup might contact the cover as it is, check it for clearance. This is stuff that I prefer to avoid "that'll do" solutions, keep a close eye on it if you want to run it like that.
After putting everything back together and riding fairly constantly this past week, I can say that the rotor bolt is not rubbing on the rotor cover. So far, so good. I did grind off a few mm of the bolt head before placing the cover on, just in case.
 
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