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Discussion Starter #1
So when I bought my bike, I noticed that the turn signals do not work (turn off when you flip the switch). When I inspected the components under the seat a couple weeks ago I noticed that there was no flasher relay, and that probably is the problem. It looks like I will need a 2 prong one. I am making a run to NAPA/Autozone tomorrow and can I pick up any old 2 prong flasher relay or should I get one from Honda (e.g. online parts fiche)?
 

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Sensei
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An automotive one will work, but the rate at which it flashes is determined by current draw...... Less draw = slower flashing...... It's up to you.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool, thanks! It was getting annoying having to use hand signals to tell cagers where I was going :lol:
 

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Sensei
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Assuming I will be sending lower switch half, I'll toss in a Honda flasher if I have it.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK so I bought a 12V, 2-prong flasher relay from Autozone and I plugged it into the connections (cleaned with steel wool), and nothing. For turn signals I have none in front and 2 stock ones in back. Someone on cafe racer forum suggested that I try an electronic flasher but I think that is for LED aftermarket signals and costs a bit more too. Any suggestions?

66sprint, I know you told me about something about this today, but I totally forgot! :oops:
 

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Sensei
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Mark, It will require the draw from at least two bulbs to flash at normal speed.... Try this: take two test leads (with alligator clips on both ends) and hook up the turn signals you do have like this..... alligator clip from lead #1 runs from one flasher terminal to both the orange and light blue wires from the rear signals.... (Ground both green wires from the signals ...Your wires may be Black with appropriate colored shrink at the plug).....Lead#2 goes from the other flasher blade to the battery+..... Both lamps should light and eventually flash...
IF NOT, Take lead#1 off the flasher and touch that end to the battery+.... if both lamps light, the flasher is bad, if they don't, the bulb/bulbs are bad....Or the battery isn't grounded to the frame, or is bad....
Let me know..... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I haven't tried anything out yet, but someone on the "Do The Ton" forum wrote this reply:

"Only having two lights may be your problem. It could be that you need the missing two lights to complete the circuit. do they work when the missing ones are connected?"

In looking at the Wiring Diagram I don't see any circuit that needs to be completed, I think this is bogus.
 

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Sensei
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NOT bogus...The flasher requires a certain amount of current draw to flash One bulb won't do it usually....
 

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try a electronic (digital) flasher if you only want to run a single light (rear turns only?)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
jayel said:
try a electronic (digital) flasher if you only want to run a single light (rear turns only?)
I'll do some research on that. Thanks!
66Sprint said:
NOT bogus...The flasher requires a certain amount of current draw to flash One bulb won't do it usually....
Maybe I'll invest in some tiny front blinkers
 

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Sensei
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That MIGHT work if the wattage of the bulbs is high enough..... I'm assuming that the back light(s) will come on, just not flash ...(If the lamps don't come "on" at all, you have other problems....)....Correct?......

This is why......
A flasher is essentially a self operating switch... The movable contact is a bi-metallic strip that "bends" as it gets hot (one side/type of metal expands faster than the other, causing it to "curve away")... When that happens, the contact points open shutting the lights off.... as the bi-metallic strip cools, it returms to its original position, closes the contacts, and lights the lamps again.... then the whole thing repeats causing "flashing".
The more lamps (the greater the draw) the faster the strip "heats-up"and the faster it flashes..... BUT, it requires a certain "minimum draw" to heat it enough to operate.... this is the wattage printed on the module..... Without MORE resistance in the circuits, the strip never "gets" to the point where it "heats" enough to open., or it takes a long time to open causing slow-flashes.......
I hope this explains the process better for you..... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah you explained it 100%

The rear (only) turn signals turn on when the bike is running. Its just that when I flip the turn signal switch to either direction, the indicated turn signal light turns off, the other remains on.
 

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krukster86 said:
The rear (only) turn signals turn on when the bike is running. Its just that when I flip the turn signal switch to either direction, the indicated turn signal light turns off, the other remains on.
sounds like you've got some wiring crossed up if the lights are on with the switch in the center posistion
 

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Sensei
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OK.... How many wires go to each signal assembly (including the ground wire)?.... If the total is three, you have front running lights on the back.... If it's two, we'll have to trace the wiring through the harness and locate the problem....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah it does sound like I have some sort of mixup here :roll: I blame it on the guy I bought it from!

I don't know when I will take a look at the bike again, work has been a killer lately.
 

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I've been working on my old 450 for ALMOST 5 YEARS :shock: Never had it registered once. :(

Winter's here so you should have plenty of time to work on her sooner or later..

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK so maybe I should have asked for opinions here before buying, but I purchased 2 sets (for front and rear) of universal turn signals for the bike from NewEnough.com. These look cooler than those huge stock ones and should hopefully have enough draw to activate that flasher relay.



I know the rear turn signals need 2 wires which these lights have. However the front turn signals have 3 wires on my wiring diagram. Is that a problem?
 

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Sensei
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NO, If those two wires are the "hot" and the ground.... (The bulb will have only one bottom "button terminal, not two like an 1157 taillight bulb)
 

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Perhaps I should have said: No, but find out IF the mounting bolt is a ground.....
Touch the "bolt" to the battery negative, then the wires one at a time to the positive....
IF the light never comes on, the "bolt" is NOT a ground, and they use single filament bulbs Hook one wire to either orange or Lt. Blue depending on the mounted side and ground the other wire (to green or chassis)
IF the light came on in previous test.... Hook the wire that gave the brightest light to the Orange (or Lt Blue)....Hook the other to the plain Brown and ground the bolts.... You'll have "running lights" that will brighten to indicate turns as signals...

Ya fallow me?...... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #20
66Sprint said:
Perhaps I should have said: No, but find out IF the mounting bolt is a ground.....
Touch the "bolt" to the battery negative, then the wires one at a time to the positive....
IF the light never comes on, the "bolt" is NOT a ground, and they use single filament bulbs Hook one wire to either orange or Lt. Blue depending on the mounted side and ground the other wire (to green or chassis)
IF the light came on in previous test.... Hook the wire that gave the brightest light to the Orange (or Lt Blue)....Hook the other to the plain Brown and ground the bolts.... You'll have "running lights" that will brighten to indicate turns as signals...

Ya fallow me?...... Steve
Yeah I got ya. Too bad the order is still processin' :D

Here is what the website says:
# Single filament bulbs
# Sold in pairs
# Mounting hardware included
# Black wire = Hot wire
Black/White wire = Ground wire

http://www.newenoughhp.com/parts/turn_s ... gnals.html
 
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