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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Me and a buddy recently purchased a 1971 Honda CL350. It runs and shifts great and all the electricals work great.... Only has 5000 miles on her. However we want to make this bike a looker. I have more photos and will post them tommorow. We have taken off the tank and after research have decided to for go a tank liner for now and are going to try electrolysis (can this be used on rusted fenders...shocks?) We are going to have the frame painted and other parts such as the gas tank forks side covers etc. We have been using steel wool, CLR, polishing compound to shine up some things and we have only made minor progress....I did some research on this sight and saw many promising techniques such as a baking soda blaster and different blasting techniques. Being unexperienced and somewhat lacking on free cash to throw around is it better to blast the cases ourselves or have a professional do this? I also need advice on cleaning the petcock which is clogged and filthy. And as far as the electricals go should we attempt to take the wires out to deliver the frame to a painter or again should we have a professional do this? We are more than prepared to spend the time, sweat, and blood to fix er' up ourselves but being that we are young and inexperienced in restorations any and all advice would be great.


One more question how about dents in the tank? Easy fix or should we invest in a good tank? We want to keep the bike as stock as possible minus a paint job (Mettalic Robin's egg blue with the black stripe turned mettalic white)
 

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Welcome aboard!

Sounds like a lot of work coming up. You'll find plenty of great advice and information available here, even a few parts. There are some folks here with a wealth of experience and expertise who are very willing to share.

I have a tank from a 73 CB350G with only one very small dent but from what I can see in your picture I don't think you'd be gaining much. One of the experts will be along soon to let you know if it would even fit.
 

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Sensei
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A CB tank will/could be fitted, BUT would also need the matching seat (same K as frame) fitted as well......CB's have longer tanks, shorter seats... CL's have shorter tanks, longer seats...Tank mount spacing is the same.....The CL's rear tab goes/hides under the seat front....
Probably a moot point however...... ;) Steve

Now for your answers...... Most of us enjoy the learning experiences from doing as much of the work ourselves as possible..... I think you should attempt the tear-down yourselves.... First, get a manual......IF in doubt, take plenty of pix to document the "routing" of cables and wires, positioning of components, etc...... Label all the parts you need to and/or place in labeled zip-locks (ie.... Bolts for, and r/side upper motor mount)......
Farm out what you can't do due to lack of tools, or not wanting to invest in those tools.......Personally, I've NEVER had any tool I didn't find repeated uses for.... :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are some up close photos of the bike. What we have already done is removed the gas tank, upper exhaust guards, removed the footpegs, one side cover (waiting to remove the exhaust) and the seat is removed. Does anybody have experience with baking soda blasting? How hard is it to remove the wiring harness and then put it back. Is removing the carbs and cleaning them and then putting them back together something someone with no experience can do? As far as the engine is concerned steel wool is not working. Do we have the cases blasted? And what about the heads.....? Are the blasted or painted? For the inside of the tank we are going to try electrolysis. ( Can we do this on chrome fenders shocks exhaust guards) if that doesn't work satisfactorily then we will put in a liner of POR-515. I have had a good experience with a KREEM liner on my CB550 however I am worried it may breakdown this winter when I stabilize the fuel. All in all we are ready to work hard on this bike and try and get it ready for bike week in march. Any and all advice tips and encouragement will be appreciated
 

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That is the color my 71 CL350K3 is supposed to be, very cool color.
 

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From what I can see, that tank doesn't look that bad internally. It mau just benefit well from a good soaking full of Milk Stone Remover or similar. Then just run inline fuel filters instead of using the tank liner kit..

It's really your call on that, cuz I can't actually see the internal rust in person..




GB :mrgreen:
 

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Hi,

Hey that tank doesn't look real bad. DON'T Cream it!! IF you screw it up its a big mess to fix. +1 on Bird76mojo's tip. I have used the electrolysis method on a few tanks and it works really well. I can give you details if you need them.

Document well. have and use a manual and don't be afraid of diggig in!! Its super fun! and when you get stuck ask for help.

Godd luck!!
 

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The only argument against using the electrolysis method is that it's a "line of sight" type of cleaning. As in the rust isn't totally removed from everywhere, only directly between the electrode and the cathode. I have no personal experience with it but have read many articles on the net and seen their results, etc.. The Milkstone Remover method (muriatic acid) should work quite well and is fairly cheap and easy. Plus no electricity involved for things to go wrong.. Just be careful around the paint if you're going to keep the factory finish.. I'd personally fill the tank to almost the cap, then after the soaking, remove the plug in the petcock bung to drain the tank. DO NOT LEAVE THE PETCOCK ON THE TANK.

Also, some have had nice results with plain old vinegar..

Still, your call..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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MilkStone Remover is Phosphoric acid, the same stuff that in carbonated colas, just a "stronger" version..... Muriatic (Hydrochloric) acid is WAY more corrosive and dangerous.... Vinegar is a weak variant of acetic acid......
 

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I was wondering after I posted that, if I was correct about the MSR actually being muriatic acid.. I was just too lazy to actually check.. That said, diluted muriatic acid would be ideal as long as there's no aluminum in contact with it and it doesn't get on the paint..

We used to use it at work all the time to soak/clean parts..

Thanks for correcting me there Stevareno.. :)

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Just had to tease GB..... Personally, I'm going to try the distilled vinegar next time.....
:lol: Steve
 

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Good call on the "line of sight" argument. I didn't mention that I do move the anode (rod) around in the tank periodically to increase the coverage. What's nice about the electric thing is that it cost about $2.00 per tanks and there are no nasty chemicals to dispose of after you are done. You can literally pour it down your drain or out in the yard with no worries. You do need to be able to control the amperage though. My understanding is that it works better at lower amperage. same as plating.

I'm serious man, once you try it you'll never go back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So after a good amount of nothing haha we got the exaust off. The screws in the guard were stuck and were not coming out. We had to drill through the screws and got 2 out and will need a screw doctor to get the last one out....but the pipes are off and the heads are plugged up to keep moisture and dirt out. I will post some pictures soon. Today I believe we are going to attempt to take the carbs off. Never done this before so does anyone have any tips to make it easier for me? Once off what are some things I should look for that would need to be replaced? Thanks for all the help I will post pictures tonight.
 

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Follow the directions in the shop manual.... The bridge between choke butterflys must be off.... disconnect cables, fuel lines, etc, etc....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I don't have a shop manual.....yet..... I am going to order one tommorow..... I made good progress got the petrified fuel lines off the carbs and pettcock which is soaking in some CLR. Battery is out and I am getting ready to take the airfilters off.....pics coming soon
 

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SeanDeLancett said:
and petcock which is soaking in some CLR.
I'd be careful. Most CLR style products contain muriatic acid (battery acid). I'd be soaking it in carb cleaner which costs about the same. And I imagine both are disasterous on rubber bits.
 

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Bird76Mojo said:
The only argument against using the electrolysis method is that it's a "line of sight" type of cleaning. As in the rust isn't totally removed from everywhere, only directly between the electrode and the cathode. I have no personal experience with it but have read many articles on the net and seen their results, etc.. The Milkstone Remover method (muriatic acid) should work quite well and is fairly cheap and easy. Plus no electricity involved for things to go wrong..
GB :mrgreen:
Electrolysis is indeed line-of-sight - if the two electrodes can't see each other, nothing happens in that area.
Works ok on flat, simple surfaces, not so well on a convoluted surface with a lot of "blind spots" like the inside of a tank. And a regular 2-amp battery charger is too much current - about 100 ma is a better number, like from a "wall wart" or something - takes longer, but more effective.

Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid - HOT stuff, very dangerous.
Milk Stone Remover is phosphoric acid, much safer.......
 

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tbpmusic said:
[Milk Stone Remover is phosphoric acid, much safer.......
As is Naval Jelly and concrete "Etch" which is available at Home Depot, etc. PHA is what should be used for all rust issues. It's harmless to things that rust, kills rust dead given enough time, and is a proper etcher for things like gas tanks and parts as you can paint right over it.

Muriatic is good for cleaning though, as it eats organic compounds really well like oil and grease. I did a final clean on my frame with CLR. A good rinse and scrub and then phosphate treatment.
 
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