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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, first post other then introduction.

So just a few hours of breakdown and here is what I've gotten so far.

Things that I knew about needing work before digging in.

-New spark plug wires/ connectors (one of them had a broken cover on the connector, looks like the put some air hose around it to keep it from arcing to the motor haha)
-Clutch not engaging (can feel cable move but is stiff, back wheel doesn't spin freely when trying to engage the clutch. Does go in and out of gear fine). After what I've broken down so far the clutch cable is moving freely, I agree with Simo, I think the plates are all gummed up.
-Kick start only engaging at the bottom. Seems to get caught on something internal on the return. Also the Kick Lever does not look original and is loose. Some previous owner used a machine screw to key the lever to the kick start shaft. Likely will need a new kick start shaft, gear and lever and subsequently a gasket set if I am cracking the case.
-bar to go connect the chokes on the 2 carbs is missing
-exhaust guard is broken off at the back. Not a big deal but want to replace eventually.
-Needs new tires.
-on recommendation from Simo adding brake shoes to the list.

After getting the seat, tank and battery off and out, first step... Drain the oil. First snag. The oil plug was the most rounded I have ever seen. And man it was in there. Penetrating oil and vice grips didn't work. Neither did cutting a slot with a dremel for a flat head. Ended up getting one of those bolt freeing sockets. That and a large breaker bar did the trick. Add sourcing a new plug to the list.

I then took the exhaust apart and to my surprise, more silicone! It was used to seal the left pipe. Not sure what parts failed but I will be looking more in to it down the road.

Have made a fair amount of headway, hopefully have it all broken down by the end of the weekend. I am sure I will find more issues by then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update. Have the engine out! I have it split, just need to disconnect a few things to actually seperate the case halvs. Took the clutch plates out, they were a little gummed together but I think the actual problem is that it was over tightened. Getting closer!
 

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Nope,......... it's the "gummed together" that's the problem.....
The spring bolts are tightened until the retainer plate is flat and snugged on the ends of the "towers", fully pressuring the springs into the "pockets" of the pressure plate.....
Because the retainer compresses all four springs, it often "feels" like the bolts aren't getting looser until most of the spring pressure is off.....

MAKE SURE you remove the clutch outer and the oil pump as a unit.........
Feel free to phone questions....540-525-5199....Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
THANK YOU! I will make sure to do that. I was thinking they were over tight because there wasn't hardly any travel when pushing the clutch rod through but just that little bit of travel must be enough. Which makes sense if the piece compressing the springs is supposed to lay flat, still should be enough play for clutch to work properly. Any idea where to find a clutch plate housing? One of the pieces is broken off. Doesn't seem to be a big deal but I imagine it being off balance isn't good for the engine and might make it run a little rough. Waiting to borrow some snap ring pliers from my father in law tomorrow or Monday so I can continue breaking down. Also, there was no gasket between the halvs of the case but in some videos I've seen there is one. Should there be? In the Clymer it just mentions liquid gasket materiel. Will give you a call for sure if I run in to any issues.
 

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When re-tightening you might want to consider using a torque wrench, you'd be surprised how easy it is to over-tighten them and I've seen posts about people snapping off one of the towers doing so. There's not a specific torque recommended so you can just use the standard m6(?) value in the service manual.

Also cmsnl.com has parts fiches, they're in the netherlands so shipping is usually prohibitive unless you're doing a serious show tier restoration and need a bunch of New old stock parts. I would find your model, find the part, get the part number and put it into google and ebay to find the part. Also David Silver Spares (make sure you use the .com site).

Between the cases is supposed to be hondabond HT, any honda dealer has it or you can order it online. It should be a very thing gray layer (try scratching with your fingernail, you should see it scratch up a little bit.
 

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Me too!!

Hey there - I am also new to this forum and ramping up my total restoration of a 1968 CL175 K0 scrambler as well! I've had mine for several years, was a barn find for $30 with Iowa title from a friend of my dad's, just getting into it now. I've been scouring eBay for parts, etc., think I got the last pair of OEM air filters on the planet! I'll post mine up on this thread, planning to do my own powdercoating and some zinc plating as well. Best of luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey there - I am also new to this forum and ramping up my total restoration of a 1968 CL175 K0 scrambler as well! I've had mine for several years, was a barn find for $30 with Iowa title from a friend of my dad's, just getting into it now. I've been scouring eBay for parts, etc., think I got the last pair of OEM air filters on the planet! I'll post mine up on this thread, planning to do my own powdercoating and some zinc plating as well. Best of luck with it!
Thats awesome! looking forward to hearing how it goes! Have you had any issues yet? Ive had to take a few weeks off working on mine because of work but trying to order a few parts today to get back going on it. Not sure how far in to the restoration I am going to get in to it after getting it running. Depends how much time it takes getting back together. Might save paint and the likes for next summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So ordering some parts today. Want an opinion. How necisary is it to change the clutch basket with a broken tab? Looks like a lot of trouble to change. I know it being off balance may create some vibration but it isn't much metal so shouldn't be horrible. Can get the rivets out to seperate the basket from the gear but don't have any way to put new rivets in. Found one online so I can get the new basket, just need to know if it's worth the trouble.
 

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You NEED to replace that!!!,,,There are other types of damage on it (sawtooth sliding edges) so it IS a necessity.......

The "basket" (clutch outer) comes with the primary gears already attached......
The same assembly was used on all the 175's AFAIK.... Part number 22100-302-000
 

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I wouldn't run it like that. It shouldn't be hard to find a good used one. I suppose you could replace just the aluminum portion but I've never seen any for sale, Honda only sells it complete

Edit: same minute, Steve! :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You NEED to replace that!!!

The "basket" (clutch outer) comes with the primary gears already attached......
The same assembly was used on all the 175's AFAIK.... Part number 22100-302-000
great to know they come together. When shopping around, the one I was going to buy only had the aluminum outer part in the item picture. Will check reviews and make sure the primary gear is attached. I will buy one today.

Taking the oil filter nut out i think i can see exactly why it broke because the same thought crossed my mind briefly... to put a wrench or bar in the teeth of the basket to try to keep the gears from turning. Looks like a brilliant idea if it werent for the thin aluminum.
 

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Taking the oil filter nut out i think i can see exactly why it broke because the same thought crossed my mind briefly... to put a wrench or bar in the teeth of the basket to try to keep the gears from turning. Looks like a brilliant idea if it werent for the thin aluminum.
Simply wedge a penny or two in the gears......;);):D
 
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