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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a flat tire recently and started to search for a new rear tire on a 1982 CM450. I will likely get a new front tire shortly after so both pairs are a consideration in my choice. The stock size is 120/90-16 for the rear and I would prefer to stick with that size. I know 130/90s seem to be pretty common and am open to that for the right tire.

Tire manufactures I've searched:

Metzeler
IRC
Shinko
Kenda
Dunlop
Pirelli

What's the best cost effective tires?
Does anyone have experience with these tires brands?
Is there a tire you love and why?
I've found a IRC Durotour RS-310 tire for $98 that seems pretty good. Has anyone rode this tire before?

Also interested in the Shinko and Kenda dual tire concept. A dual tire designed for 80% street and 20% off road. Has anyone bought these tires? How do they do on the highway?
 

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I've been a big Dunlop guy over the years but they've changed a lot since I had my last set (K81s, which were great tires at the time). I bought old-school Dunlop K-70s for my 450 but I'm pretty sure they're repros of the old tread pattern. I bought a Shinko for the rear of my V65 and I like it a lot so far, decent traction at a lower price
 

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I had IRC RS-310 Durotour front and the 120 width rear on my CM400 with tube-type comstars.
I recommend the 120 rear over the 130.
Best handling tires I've ever ridden with, these tires are easy to trust and push a little harder.
I had one little slip in the rain(enough sideways to know it was slipping) while accelerating, but I just backed off the throttle and it found traction again.
I'd buy them again.
 

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I really liked the Dunlop GT501's but those are out of production now. Tried a set of Metzler ME888's and tossed them after 10K, internal problems with one of them and they started feeling greasy on hard turns. Running Michelin Commanders now and really like those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I've heard a few people say they like Dunlop tires. I like the Dunlop F20 / K525 Qualifier Motorcycle Tires. They're nice but a little more expensive on cost. Unfortunately my funds are a little low at the moment. Might go with the cheaper IRC option for now. That's weird about the Metzler tires not working out. They seem like pretty good tires.
 

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These are what I've been using. Decent wear and quality for the price. I got them from a Canadian supplier, so pricing for the rear was $101 CDN delivered to my door with tax.

https://fortnine.ca/en/duro-hf261a-excursion-front-rear-tire

I use 100/90/18 up front and 120/90/16 rear.
Thanks, I was wondering how the Duros were, any handling or rain-worthiness to mention?

Those are on sale right now at JP Cycles
(used to be motorcycle superstore)
$56.99 and $65.99 https://www.jpcycles.com/search/search?Ntt=Duro+hf261a&N=28012733&Ntk=All

One good tip for buying tires at any price is to buy them from a place that moves a lot of tires, that way you get fresher tires than eBay or Amazon sellers have.
 

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I find them good in the wet. On dry roads, the pegs scrape just fine. As for age, the last one I got was a year old when I got it.
 

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I've had good experiences with both Shinko and Bridgestone tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I bought a IRC Durotour RS-310 rear tire and tube last night. The tire was on sale for $77! I'll be putting this tire on and driving 160 miles pretty much the next day, so it should be a very good test for them. Also bought new rear wheel bearings and seal for good measure. Does anyone one have a good trick to remove old bearings?
 

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Looking at this fiche you'll see that #10 is shouldered and it actually inserts into the left bearing. The other end butts up against the right bearing inner race. The problem is that the inserted end keeps you from pushing the sleeve sideways so you can use a punch to drive the right bearing out first.


My solution has been to grind a socket down so it just fits the new right bearing inner race and use that as a driver to knock the sleeve and right bearing out, then flip the wheel and use a punch to drive the left bearing out. If you have a lathe you could make a punch to use in place of a socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I received my new IRC tire the other day! Now I need to get the old tire off the rim. Really hate changing the tire on these rims. Really tight fit and it seems like I forget and have to remember my technique for doing it each time. Got one side of the tire off now the other side. :mad:

IMG_3067.JPG IMG_3068.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tear down of rear assembly:

Remove old tire.
IMG_3071.JPG

Received new parts: IRC tire, tube, bearings, inner rim strip
IMG_3069.JPG

Used a 14mm socket to hammer out the other side's bearing first.
IMG_3072.JPG IMG_3073.JPG

Used another larger 17mm socket to hammer the other side out. Make sure to support the hub on a solid surface to reduce bouncing.
IMG_3074.JPG

Used a screw driver to carefully remove the seal and the bearing shaft comes out.
IMG_3075.JPG

Cleaned the hub/ rim and noticed the some spokes on the rim were loose. Taking it to work to test with a dial indicator.
 

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I don't know what the spec is, but I know I'd true it until I couldn't get it any closer without possible spoke breakage. Just use good judgment on the spoke tension as you go
 

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Spec is 2mm or .080" maximum radial and axial run out. So try for less than that.
The FSM is your friend
Wow, 80 though is spec for axial and radial, that sounds huge. Even with used spokes and rims that shouldn't present much difficulty to achieve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
:lol: .08" run out! I was trying to get it .010" last night, but could only get it about .020" -.015. You can really spend a lot of time chasing that last .010" around. 90% of it is about .005" except for this one spot on the wheel. Also wonder if some of that might be bearing or shaft slop. Regardless, I think I'm in spec.

IMG_3078.JPG IMG_3076.JPG
 
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