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Anyone else from around me? I got an 81 cm400c I need to rebuild the front forks done seals 3x n still squishy need to do a clutch. Any ideas on kits or knowledge on how to do this would be much appreciated 👍👍
Erie pa here
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Pics of her
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Hi pb,
Store those hammers, but then again you may know how to use them...
You know of CMSNL.com and partzilla for the info and brilliant exploded views and actual pictures of interested parts.
3 X front fork seals ?
What fork oil and quantity are you using ?
Clutch...
I assume this is a new bike to you and you heard it running before you got it ?
Bike been in storage for long ?
As you will be aware stuff on bikes stick due to hybernation. The longer the hybernation the more the possibility and scope for stuck stuff.
Clutches can and do stick, as do VALVES ?
What's wrong with the clutch ?
A stuck clutch can be freed by...
Bike on centre stand with front of bike up against a wall or similar, so bike CANNOT roll off centre stand.
Rear wheel, tyre, brakes and chain etc. all good to allow rear wheel to be driven up to speed safely.
Cooling fans for engine, 12volt or mains electricity powered.
Run engine until warm/running temperature.
Try pulling handle bar clutch lever in, the disengaged position, and blip the throttle many times from idle to say 4 k revs.
Let clutch out, engaged position, and blip throttle several times.
Allow to idle, pull in clutch and listen.
You may here a shaft slow down, play with clutch and listen....
Sometimes the engine heat and playing with the clutch and throttle blipping is enough to free a sticky clutch.
However, no shaft slow down heard, so, spin up rear wheel as fast as you can, drop it into first gear with clutch pulled in.
Rear wheel rotates as if in gear...blip throttle, clutch will eventually free....a higher gears helps....
Heat and transmission snatch is the gentlest way of freeing a stuck clutch with out a strip down.
Verify all gears on drive and overrun to check for selection, drive and over run, no jumping out of gear.
When clutch plates stick to the steel ones, the shape of the clutch friction pad is etched to the steel one, which will corrode/pit....
So, clutch needs a strip down and clean at least. This is good as it will allow you to check balance chain adjustment/reset, and allow a really good top down engine internal clean washing any /all crap, clutch debris etc. out of the engine. Don't forget any oil troughs like kick start one etc..
Study CMSNL exploded views, get a manual and/or read similar threads on here...
Take your time, feedback, pictures but most of all enjoy.
Store those hammers, but then again you may know how to use them...
You know of CMSNL.com and partzilla for the info and brilliant exploded views and actual pictures of interested parts.
3 X front fork seals ?
What fork oil and quantity are you using ?
Clutch...
I assume this is a new bike to you and you heard it running before you got it ?
Bike been in storage for long ?
As you will be aware stuff on bikes stick due to hybernation. The longer the hybernation the more the possibility and scope for stuck stuff.
Clutches can and do stick, as do VALVES ?
What's wrong with the clutch ?
A stuck clutch can be freed by...
Bike on centre stand with front of bike up against a wall or similar, so bike CANNOT roll off centre stand.
Rear wheel, tyre, brakes and chain etc. all good to allow rear wheel to be driven up to speed safely.
Cooling fans for engine, 12volt or mains electricity powered.
Run engine until warm/running temperature.
Try pulling handle bar clutch lever in, the disengaged position, and blip the throttle many times from idle to say 4 k revs.
Let clutch out, engaged position, and blip throttle several times.
Allow to idle, pull in clutch and listen.
You may here a shaft slow down, play with clutch and listen....
Sometimes the engine heat and playing with the clutch and throttle blipping is enough to free a sticky clutch.
However, no shaft slow down heard, so, spin up rear wheel as fast as you can, drop it into first gear with clutch pulled in.
Rear wheel rotates as if in gear...blip throttle, clutch will eventually free....a higher gears helps....
Heat and transmission snatch is the gentlest way of freeing a stuck clutch with out a strip down.
Verify all gears on drive and overrun to check for selection, drive and over run, no jumping out of gear.
When clutch plates stick to the steel ones, the shape of the clutch friction pad is etched to the steel one, which will corrode/pit....
So, clutch needs a strip down and clean at least. This is good as it will allow you to check balance chain adjustment/reset, and allow a really good top down engine internal clean washing any /all crap, clutch debris etc. out of the engine. Don't forget any oil troughs like kick start one etc..
Study CMSNL exploded views, get a manual and/or read similar threads on here...
Take your time, feedback, pictures but most of all enjoy.
Joined
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6 Posts
Clutch won't adjust any more. I been riding it for over a year. N atf for fork oil 3x cus original were bad second time I forget to put the retainer nut on the bottom so then I had to do that one again n third cuz they were leaking again n wouldn't hold pressure. I put in whatever the book recommendations were. I'm getting into it this weekend so I'll post pics from the inside
Joined
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6 Posts
Paint is next
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