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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I am putting my bike back together. I just cleaned and polished a lot of parts and wanted to begin tuning the bike. I checked all the electrical wiring and it all looks good. I disconnected a lot of wiring like the horns and turn signals, but I figure that shouldn't be a problem. I also do not have a brake light attached to the bike.

I reinstalled the carbs and put the tank on and tried to start the bike but I get nothing. The headlight works, the neutral light works, but I get nothing off the ignition and kickstarting it gets me nowhere.

It feels like it is dead but my battery is new and is has good voltage. What could be the problem?

I pulled my plugs, which are not new and are the ones I had on there last season. The plugs were black - oil fouled and also smelled like gas. Could my plugs be that bad that I get no response from ignition?

Any help is greatly appreciated.


Thx
 

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New plugs can't hurt but you've obviously got bigger problems if they're fouled.. Also, what bike???

Pull the plugs and replace them. Leave them out. Hook one up at a time to the plug wires and ground the plug against the cylinder head somewhere. Hit the electric start or kick it over and see if the new plugs fire. If both sides have fire, then that's good. Next would be to check your timing. Bill has posted a timing procedure on here, search for it. Once you've got it static timed, then check to see that the petcock flows fuel freely, into a container. Be sure that the fuel tank is completely clean! If all that checks out ok, then next would be a complete carb cleaning by removing them and all of the jets in them. Do one carb at a time and reassemble it before moving on to the next. Be sure all jets and drilled passages in the carb bodies are free from obstructions by spraying carb cleaner through them. Check/set your float height before re-installing them. That's also been discussed here. Everything you're having problems with should have been discussed here at one time or another..

If you have any questions along the way, then feel free to ask.


GB :mrgreen:
 

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I would almost wager that with all those "unnecessary" wires unhooked, you haven't re-installed the "kill" switch.... Either hook it up, or run a jumper from the black wire (hot when key is on) directly to the black/white wires on both coils....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea, thx all. I kno I have bigger problems, thing is those issues are out of my expertise. According to the manual I can run hotter plugs to alleviate any issues causing the oil fouled plugs.

The Bike: 69-70 cb350

Ok, so the carbs are clean, the petcock is clean and so is the tank. I set the timing when I put the covers back on, however, I am no expert so I will check again.

Thing is, I am getting nothing at all when I hit the start button or kick start the bike. I mean when I kick start it I don't even get a little rumble like she is trying to come alive. Does that sound like a timing issue or an electrical issue?

So Sprint, there is no black/white wire, no kill switch.
 

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bk69cb350 said:
, but I get nothing off the ignition and kickstarting it gets me nowhere.

Thx
I don't know what you mean by that statement. Have you pulled a plug and grounded it to the cylinder then used the starter or the kick start to verify there is spark to the plug?
 

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Like I had first mentioned and Mike seconded, grounding that plug and checking for fire should tell him if the kill switch is the problem or not.. At least that's the way I saw it... :oops:


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thx for your patience guys. I tested the plugs and there was no spark on either one.

When I use the starter button absolutely nothing happens. There is no clicking or anything.

I'll get new plugs tomorrow and go from there i guess, right?

Thx
 

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bk69cb350 said:
Thx for your patience guys. I tested the plugs and there was no spark on either one.

When I use the starter button absolutely nothing happens. There is no clicking or anything.

I'll get new plugs tomorrow and go from there i guess, right?

Thx
Starting with good plugs is always a good thing and is an inexpensive way to eliminate that potential point of failure. However, the clicking noise is not a good thing so make sure the battery is completely charged. However, my guess is that new plugs will not fix your problems. Instead, I think you've got some electrical issues.

Remove the point cover and, withh the key in the on position and the points closed (either set), check to see if you have 12v where the wire connects to the points. If you do, manually open the points with your finger and see if it fires the plug when you do so.

Let us know what happens.
 

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Sensei
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I still think there is No power to the coils..... Jump to both coils (black wires) from battery positive.... spritz some starting fluid (ether) at the carbs and kickstart the bike.... It SHOULD try to run....since it is "hotwired', key position won't affect the test.
If it runs (or trys) like this, we can eliminate the problem by process of elimination...If it won't run, timing or coils are bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey Black Bomber, I am not sure what you want me to do, but I think I am going to check my timing again. I did it myself so I must have messed it up. It has to be the issue since I didn't touch anything else. If that doesn't work I will check the points, but I am unsure about the procedure.

One thing though, when looking at the points I realized I didn't connect the points to the condenser, lol, but that didn't help either.

So right now, everything looks connected properly so I am going to check my timing again.

Thanks again. I'll post when it's done.
 

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Simple question: Do you have voltage at the points? Test it with a test light with the ignition switched on. Ground the test light, and check the ground by touching the probe to the battery positive post. Use the probe to lift open one set of points (touching the metal part of the movable arm) at a time. The light should be off when the points are closed and on when the points are open. The coil should fire the spark at the instant when the points break contact, although the grounded test light might prevent that. The condenser is critical to creating the spark.
 

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The condenser (capacitor) has nothing to do with creating the spark, it is there to prevent metal transfer (miniature welding) from one point to the other... The collapse of the magnetic field in the coil primary creates (induces) the spark in the secondary windings........The condenser IS important to keep the system in good working order.
Since you have a variety of "unpowered" electrical applications, you can either "jump" it to test (As I outlined) or track the wiring to find the "error"... I suspect the ignition circuit fuse.....Or a bad ignition switch.... (some, but not all of the internal connections may be worn or corroded, so some things will work, others won't)... The jumper (if it allows the engine to fire) would at least isolate the problem area to the "feed" wiring...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, so this is what I did. I went to check my timing as outlined in this post: http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=883&hilit=timing

My light never turned on.

I then grounded one plug at a time while connected to the plug wire and nothing happened on either side or either plug.

I am getting something on the right side point because when I rotate the alt counter clock wise I will see a little spark on the right side point every now and then. So I then probed around and the light turned on when I probed the right side point. So what does this mean?

Thx
 

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Your points need gapped (left point) and both set for timing....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Damn, that's odd because I never touched the points. Damn and I don't have a gauge to set it.

Thanks man, I'll post the results here.
 

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If your light isn't coming on, either the points aren't opening, or, you are not getting power through or from the coils.......If you have power and the points physically open and you still get no spark, check the wires from the coils to the points for a short to ground (other than the points themselves)... also check the plug caps... they are know to corrode in the resistance gap inside and refuse to fire......

Do you have a good ground to the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, from what I can tell I do have a good ground. It's running to the middle of the frame below battery.

How do I test the coils? And how do I test the plug caps?

The plug wires are fairly new. I bought them last season. They still look good. I tried testing them by placing them near the cylinder head and cranking the bike and seeing if there was any spark and there was none.

The points open and close physically. I do seem to have power at the right point.

I am gonna check the coil wires. I might even take a pic and maybe you all might see something I am missing.

Thx again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok so here are some pics of the wiring and points.







As far as I can tell everything is wired correctly. There is an empty prong where the black wire to my turn signal switch should go, but other than that noting seems to be missing.
 

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The condenser is important in the generation of the spark, since the generation of high voltage in the coils depends upon the rapid collapse of the primary magnetic field. If the points arc, which they will without the condenser, that results in a "soft" collapse of the field. This may not prevent a spark from being generated at low speed, but it will weaken it - and it will result in the motor misfiring, if it fires at all. At higher speed, the ionization path of the arc may persist throughout the contact point's dwell time - and no spark at all. It is actually the saturation of the condenser that "breaks" the electric current; the points opening only transfer the current from the point contact to the condenser, and the rate of condenser saturation determines the rate of field collapse. Watch it on a 'scope some time. The 'scope will also tell you the condition of the condenser.
 

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bk69cb350 said:


As far as I can tell everything is wired correctly. There is an empty prong where the black wire to my turn signal switch should go, but other than that noting seems to be missing.
I notice one thing on the above picture. On the right side, the wire that is connected to the pooints i attached to the back side. There is very little room back there and the 'spade' might be touching the point plate and shorting out which would give no spark. The left one doesn't look as bad but try to position those connectors on the side or towards the front.

In this picture you can see the left point (this is my CL350) is positioned towards the front and the right side is connected towards the side so neither connector can short on anything.

 
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