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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i know this topic (in general) has been covered here, but what's the thought on leaving the engine together and painting it. has anyone had any real success with this method? and i mean a decent looking paint job with proper prep and (some) disassembly. pretty much remove all covers and starter, simple green everything TWICE and either rattle can or spray gun the thing. that damn cam chain got me once and i just don't really wanna deal with it again but i am absolutely blacking the whole shebang.
 

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I've painted two engines now, both complete and had really good results. I don't think it would have been any better if I had of taken them apart. The one on my KZ I never even removed from the frame and it looks good, you'd never know the difference. Unless I had to open the engine for some reason, I'd never take it apart just to paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
nice. just the responses i was looking for, thanks guys. i started removing covers and cleaning them last night!

how is that engine enamel primer holding up for you matt? if decent, any chance you have a photo of the label so i know exactly what to look for? or bill, if your listening can you further defend your self-etching primer(translucent green stuff)? i just wanna make sure i'm choosing the right stuff.

-seth
 

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Hey Matt (or anyone can jump in)

I was having a look at your painting thread. Can you give me a play by play of how you prepared the engine? did you just clean the it with steel wool, sandpaper, just soap and water......?? I am thinking of painting much like you did.

and would i need to get new gaskets for the sidcovers if i take them off?

how much does that beast weigh?
 

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uhohferris said:
nice. just the responses i was looking for, thanks guys. i started removing covers and cleaning them last night!

how is that engine enamel primer holding up for you matt? if decent, any chance you have a photo of the label so i know exactly what to look for? or bill, if your listening can you further defend your self-etching primer(translucent green stuff)? i just wanna make sure i'm choosing the right stuff.

-seth
Re: the self etching primer. I've used several types of self etching primers on my airplane to help with corrosion projection but if you're painting over an existing paint job without stripping it first then you don't need the self etching stuff although I suppose it wouldn't hurt. The purpose of the etching part is to give some "tooth" to the Aluminum to help keep it from peeling.

I'm going to pull the motor on my '68 350 this winter for painting. In my case, I'll only lightly tape off the cases but I want to leave them in place. After painting, I plan on removing the already polished cases, stripping them then lightly polish them again. I've tried the aircraft stripper on polished cases in the past and it removes the paint nicely but doesn't damage the polished surfaces.
 

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I use the chromate plate technique when painting aluminum-- most aircraft guys know that one! It's easyer than it sounds too--a can do for a child. I would not recomened doing it with the part on the bike as this stuff works so well any and all freshly cleaned aluminum will plate. I just had a residue that my glove touched then I touched a part I was polishing-zap!!! So off the bike or Sh-t H-ppens. Just get the oxide layer off the aluminum, brush Alodine an instant chromating or Zincate on and in a second or two 100% pure zinc plated. For a finned jugs and or head I'd bead blast with fresh beads and brush on right then as a thin oxide layer forms quick on aluminum. This form of primer is considered the best as it's chromate or zinc content will be 100% on the aluminum's surface and it self electroplates to the aluminum. The chemical is rather un-noxous, I wouldn't drink it but if it gets on you no biggy (no smell too). Most boat and auto paint shops have Alodine. If your going to disasemble and do it right, this is doing it right. If in the future you strip the paint, the zinc or chromate is still there to repaint to.
 

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When priming aircraft parts, especially interior parts that you can not see or get to easily, we usually etch, alodine then prime the parts. The alodine I use leaves a gold color but it is very fragile and scratches easily. I would not consider it as finish top layer. As a corrosion inhibitor for non-alclad aluminum it works great but I wouldn't consider it as a substitute for zinc plating or paint for either appearance or corrosion protection.
 

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CB200 said:
I use the zinc plate technique when painting aluminum--
Do you have some pictures of some motorcycle parts you've used this technique on?
 

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I'll try and take some Tuesday. I also got that super soft yellow coat on 6061T-6 aluminum (a common grade of aircraft aluminum). But on Honda CB200 parts it plates a blatant coat. I have not tryed it on the fins as I use home made bright dip and found a clean fin resists discoloration. I think painting fins that were not painted in the first place is like wearing a hat instead of washing your hair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
so i probably missed it, but how did you guys (that painted an engine whole) handle the valve tappet adjustment rods? did you secure them somehow? is there some technique i'm unaware of for removing them without losing the valve tappets? the "adjustment rods" are ready to come flying out - dropping the tappets down in the head. pain in the arse to retrieve, i've done it successfully before but i don't want to do it again.

i also broke my points valve cover. crap. it got stuck with tension on the cams i guess and i used a little too much hammer force. see pic. anyone have a replacement they'd be willing to part with? i may have some parts i can trade but i'll pay! what is the technique when removing the covers? mine always seem to be so tough to get off because the chain is tensioned pulling the cams against the part of the covers that goes "in" to the head? simply let tension out on the cam chain? i tried that, sortof...

lastly i know this thing is dirty as all hell and i'm REALLY considering just biting the bullet and cutting the damn chain so i can give it a proper cleaning. someone encourage me that it can be done as is and get me out of that mindset.

oh yeah and i rode a 1200cc HD sporty this weekend! (just a slightly) different animal then my little cb450 project...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
bill,
no way to take out those rods without dropping the valve tappets?

-seth
 

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Hey Seth, just an observation here...but you may wanna pop some lids on those polystyrene cups that compose your filing system there buddy. Wouldnt wanna see ya bowl a strike.... :?
 

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uhohferris said:
bill,
no way to take out those rods without dropping the valve tappets?

-seth
Nope - the adjuster rods are the only thing holding the tappets in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thanks for all responses... even leethal's faith in my bowling skills.
and just one more thing bill. you might have missed it in an earlier post, but how strongly can you defend that translucent green etching primer you use? and it's dupli-color, correct? spray can, available at most auto parts joints? i'm ready to buy but still considering my options.
 

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uhohferris said:
thanks for all responses... even leethal's faith in my bowling skills.
and just one more thing bill. you might have missed it in an earlier post, but how strongly can you defend that translucent green etching primer you use? and it's dupli-color, correct? spray can, available at most auto parts joints? i'm ready to buy but still considering my options.
I can't "defend" it at all - just seems to work good here. I use it on all bare metal, whether aluminum or steel.
And yes, available at auto part stores (duplicolor).

All those cups are for wimps - I just throw everything into one big ol' box.... :ugeek: :ugeek: :eek: :eek: :shock: :shock:
 
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