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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
Starting a new thread.
Was blowing main fuse with key on, doesn’t matter if switch on the handlebars was run or stop. No lights plugged in front or back, no rear brake switch plugged in. New ignition switch, new starter solenoid, new battery, rectifier diode tested and checked out, got a replacement harness from a running bike. Same issue blowing 15amp but not 20. Disconnected rectifier same thing, disconnected stator not blowing a fuse but still no power or dash lights. Connected it back not blowing fuses anymore but still nothing happens.
Electrical is not my strengths. Feeling little lost.

Thank you
 

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Check the wires that go into your headlight bucket, for any damaged insulation. Same with the wiring between your battery and fuse box... And might as well do under the tank too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Checked the bucket and other connections, tank is off, bike is mostly apart. Disinterested find anything out of ordinary.
 

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I read your other thread.
So what's the harness plugged into at the moment?
Can you post a photo of yor battery?
 

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Is this bike a Hondamatic?? and its in the wrong section.

check check check the ign switch to see it works properly and has not faults. Is everything all ok in the instrument dash, and are those electrics connected??

Loom/harness changed, replacement has the same fault as the oe one? Possible yes but probable, not really.

This is gunna be a daft problem, maybe a bulb, but it has to be connected to the electrics, all bulbs disconnected ??

Disconnected rectifier same thing, disconnected stator not blowing a fuse but still no power or dash lights. Connected it back not blowing fuses anymore but still nothing happens.
 

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Let's proceed this way. Connect the solenoid, regulator, fuse block and ignition switch to the harness.
Install a 10A fuse in the top holder. Yeah, I know it calls for a 15A but this is testing and if there's an overload it'll blow quicker. Plus 15A is an over-rated circuit protection, circuit draws less than 10A
Leave all the other connectors disconnected. Now connect one at a time. When the fuse blows that will show you which circuits are causing the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It is not a hondamatic.

Connected stator, rectifier, fuses.
On front, ignition switch, both handlebar controls, no light bulbs or horn plugged in. In the back no lights plugged in, turn signal relay is in so as small rectifier. On the side starter solenoid connected, brake switch not, oil pressure and neutral switch connected, cdi wire to harness and ground to frame.

Now when key turned nothing happens, doesn’t blow any fuses and everything is dead.

I tested ignition switch wires I get 11.7 volts on all wires but brown wires in the switch. Battery is at 13.1 volts. Also tested horn wires no power.
Attached pic is of the battery.


F482472D-C451-45AD-A74B-2B9E6DAB16FB.jpg
 

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Well, I've never seen that kind of battery before.

I wanted a photo of it installed and zoom out a hit so I can see the surrounding are and wires.

Thanks

Edit: confirm both sides of the fuse have power.
Confirm the power(red wire?) on the if switch and text continuity of switch to match sure it's transferring the power.
 

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Brown and Brown/White wire get power from the 7A tail light fuse. This also powers the speedometer, tach and tail light.
So, if you're getting power to the Black wire on the ignition switch (BAT2) then you can be certain that there are no shorts up to the 7A tail light fuse (Brown/Blue wire - hoping your new harness matches the original color scheme).
Put in the 7A fuse to see if you get lights. If the fuse blows, we can narrow it down further. (this assumes that the red connectors are mated)
 

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New ignition switch? where did you get it? The only ones I know of are reproduction units from David Silver.
You need to check voltages. The Red wire should have full battery voltage at the switch, maybe .01V less. When the key is in the ON position you should have almost full battery voltage at the Black, Brown and Brown w/White wires coming out of the switch.
You connected more parts than I suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ignition switch is a reproduction from 4into1. I'm getting full battery power to red and brown but nothing else.
I tested wires to fuse box, only getting power on one red wire that is coming from the starter solenoid, no power to the other wires. With key on and fuses in both red wires powered in and out but nothing else.
Fuses are not blowing anymore either.
 

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If you have power on Brown (TL2) only, it indicates the ignition switch is in the Park position. Also, you should have the tail light on if Brown has voltage.
With the switch in the On position, Black should have power. Brown and Brown/White should also show power if the 7A fuse is installed and good.
Was the switch part number from 4into1 35100-413-007?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, that is the switch i got.

I think I figured out something!

some of the dash bulbs were burned out so i put leds, now put few bulbs stock bulbs back in and it works. tail light lights up, neutral light on speedo and tach. hit the starter button and it cranks. other issue i found now is kill switch on the handlebars doesn't seem to work, it lets me crank the bike in any position of the switch stop or run.

Happy with the progress though.
 

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Yes, that is the switch i got.
other issue i found now is kill switch on the handlebars doesn't seem to work, it lets me crank the bike in any position of the switch stop or run.

Happy with the progress though.
Glad that you figured it out, the kill switch sounds like it is working correctly. It only controls the ignition circuit, not the starter circuit like some bikes.

....Paul
 

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Good news! As Paul said, the kill switch only disables the CDI unit.
Looks like you're closing in fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok, good to know on the kill switch. Also ignition switch is strange, it is off/on/off, usually it is off/acc/on, oh well it works. Here is a stranger part; I put leds in one by one back into the dash/speedo/tach and it is still working no blowing fuses or anything like that. Even connected tail light and that works. Dont have a working headlight so didn’t check that. Hope it stays all good and I can move on to other things on this bike.
 

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Ignition switch should be OFF/ON/PARK. Park position is the same as OFF (CDI disabled), but turns on the tail light as well. For safety I imagine.
 
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