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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, guys,


I have changed all the controls on my cb450k5 and now have a doubt regarding my clutch: I have accidentally pulled on the clutch rod while cleaning it and I feel I can't push it in - I'm an absolute noob and know close to 0 about the bike but can you tell me if it's normal that the rod won't go in? Do I need to open the clutch basket cover to do something else to fix it?



Thank you very much!!


Ricardo
 

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If I understand correctly, the push rod will not seat all the way in? The round end of the rod needs to go on the clutch side. There is a plunger it needs to fit into. You may need to jiggle it around to get it to drop it. I would pull it out and check to make sure it isn't crudded up.

Clutch Cross Section 1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If I understand correctly, the push rod will not seat all the way in? The round end of the rod needs to go on the clutch side. There is a plunger it needs to fit into. You may need to jiggle it around to get it to drop it. I would pull it out and check to make sure it isn't crudded up.

View attachment 223850
As always, James, you're of major help!! Thank you very much!!

Need to be honest: I'm not sure if the rod is actually supposed to go in when the thread clutch is pulled (outwards) by the clutch cable - is the rod supposed to go in, push the springs in the clutch basket and get the clutch discs apart from eachother? It doensn't go in. Does it only do it when the engine is running?

View attachment 223858
 

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you definitely have the steel ball in place between the clutch rod and the clutch actuator? #10 in Jim's parts fiche picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you definitely have the steel ball in place between the clutch rod and the clutch actuator? #10 in Jim's parts fiche picture.
Hey, Liam. Thank you for replying!

Yes, I have the steel bearing midst the grease. It's rod I think has an issue. Will take it out tomorrow to check for dust, etc. and try to push the clutch springs using another, thinner rod.


Best regards to yall!
 

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You won't push the rod in without some serious leverage, there are some pretty stout springs holding the pressure plate down from the other side. If you can get the sprocket cover on the rod is in far enough.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
You won't push the rod in without some serious leverage, there are some pretty stout springs holding the pressure plate down from the other side. If you can get the sprocket cover on the rod is in far enough.
Damn it, Mike, thank you very much! This was the question I was asking myself. I guess, then, all is fine with the rod (will check with the cover, anyways). I just assumed (by the amount of strenght needed to pull the clutch lever - not much) I'd be able to to push it in simply using my hand but indeed I guess 6 heavy springs are enough strenght to prevent it and the helical thread clutch does provide enough leverage with its rotation.

I was just alarmed due to the fact that the rod came out (thought it would have been screwed in or whatever) and I would need to open the clutch basket cover..


Thank you very much to all!!
 

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I haven't measured it, but the clutch rod should only have to move about 0.1-0.2"; the lever, where my index finger rests, moves about 2", so there may be a 10:1 or higher lever ratio. IOW, 2-3 pounds pressure on the lever would be maybe 20-30 pounds lifting force on the rod. Not likely you're applying more than 10 pounds force to that little rod with your bare fingers.
 

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There is a lot of monkey motion going on with the clutch linkage. When you pull the clutch lever in, the cable is pulled, this lifts the Clutch Lifter Thread (#11), It turns against the Clutch Adjuster (#12), this pushes the Clutch Lifter Rod (#9) into the Clutch Lifter Joint Piece (#8), the clutch lifter piece lifts the pressure plate (#7) and compresses the clutch springs. This diagram depicts the K0 clutch with six springs. The later bikes had four springs. If you take the clutch apart, it is possible to set the pressure plate to set the pressure plate 90 degrees off from the Clutch Center (#5). If it is set wrong, the clutch will not engage. don't ask me how I know this.

What is the history of this bike? I had trouble getting mine to release the first time. Even though I disassembled the clutch, I didn't get enough oil on the plate and they were very sticky. If you bike hasn't run for a while you may face the same problem.

It is very important the clutch lifter thread and the clutch adjuster and ball are clean and well greased.

Clutch Exploded.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I haven't measured it, but the clutch rod should only have to move about 0.1-0.2"; the lever, where my index finger rests, moves about 2", so there may be a 10:1 or higher lever ratio. IOW, 2-3 pounds pressure on the lever would be maybe 20-30 pounds lifting force on the rod. Not likely you're applying more than 10 pounds force to that little rod with your bare fingers.
There is a lot of monkey motion going on with the clutch linkage. When you pull the clutch lever in, the cable is pulled, this lifts the Clutch Lifter Thread (#11), It turns against the Clutch Adjuster (#12), this pushes the Clutch Lifter Rod (#9) into the Clutch Lifter Joint Piece (#8), the clutch lifter piece lifts the pressure plate (#7) and compresses the clutch springs. This diagram depicts the K0 clutch with six springs. The later bikes had four springs. If you take the clutch apart, it is possible to set the pressure plate to set the pressure plate 90 degrees off from the Clutch Center (#5). If it is set wrong, the clutch will not engage. don't ask me how I know this.

What is the history of this bike? I had trouble getting mine to release the first time. Even though I disassembled the clutch, I didn't get enough oil on the plate and they were very sticky. If you bike hasn't run for a while you may face the same problem.

It is very important the clutch lifter thread and the clutch adjuster and ball are clean and well greased.

View attachment 223954


Just installed the left cover and the clutch lever, and it's good to go! Still need to adjust it according to the manual but it feels solid.

Once again, guys, thank you very much for your patience, understanding and, most of all, knowledge!!!!
 

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The manual is not very clear on setting the clutch adjuster (#12), versus adjusting the cable. I start with the cable disconnected, and use the adjuster to set the initial adjustment, so you get the best control range of the lever #11; you want it to make contact with the lifter rod, then turn it back just enough (about 1/16" at the edge), so the lifter is not under continuous pressure. Then, I connect the cable and set the lever position when contact is made with the cable adjusters.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The manual is not very clear on setting the clutch adjuster (#12), versus adjusting the cable. I start with the cable disconnected, and use the adjuster to set the initial adjustment, so you get the best control range of the lever #11; you want it to make contact with the lifter rod, then turn it back just enough (about 1/16" at the edge), so the lifter is not under continuous pressure. Then, I connect the cable and set the lever position when contact is made with the cable adjusters.
Hey, Rick! Thank you very much for your advice!

I was pretty lucky that it got adjusted with no major worries indeed. I have the 10/20mm slack on the lever, as per the manual. The new cable is such a huge difference from the old one.. I got grease all over the clutch rod and lifter, and got the cable lubed with a teflon based spray. Oh man, it's heaven.

I now have one final issue I need to address regarding the blikers - either the relay or the contacts at the controls, on the handlebar.. But I am very happy with the motorcycle:
View attachment 224049
 
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