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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a Domino starter/kill switch as a temporary convenience switch until I get to that stage of my rebuild. And I've decided that I kinda like it, but it didn't come with an electrical diagram and it's really difficult to find anything online on wiring it up.

Dominno_Right_Control_Switch_Revival_Cycles__09343.1531781041.jpg

I've searched all over and can't find much information about wiring this to the stock harness. Here's what I know from another thread:

RUN/STOP BUTTONS
2 x BLUE
1 X YELLOW/BLACK
1 X BLACK

STARTER BUTTON
1 X WHITE/BLACK
1 X ORANGE

And I have these two images:

Domino wiring 1.jpg
domino wiring 2.jpg

So to start with the Starter function, I'm pretty sure that the stock system self grounds, and I can't find a route to ground in the stock wiring harness. So I guess I'm stuck with making a ground connection for O/B, right?

And the Run/Stop, I understand that I need to insert this between a switched hot (black) and the points/condenser supply (black/white) on the stock harness. I got confused on the diagram though and the more I look at it, the more confused I get. My guess begins with the switched hot connected to B/Y and the points supply connected to B. But then I don't understand what's supposed to happen with BL?
 

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Sensei
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Phone me...540-525-5199

For one thing, NO wires from this switch go to the points/condenser.....They go to the coils.....
 

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First things first. This switch will not work without a relay. It's only rated for 3A and your coils will pull 5A.

So if your heart is set on using this switch, please let us know and I'll get a diagram together for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First things first. This switch will not work without a relay. It's only rated for 3A and your coils will pull 5A.

So if your heart is set on using this switch, please let us know and I'll get a diagram together for you.
I just got off the phone with 66 and he explained the weird (international) diagramming, so I think that I understand how to wire the on/off now. Thanks, though.


I'm not married to this switch at all. I just want something simple and low profile. My eventual plan is the m-switches, but I'm not sold on that idea yet. I'd really appreciate a suggestion for an alternative if you have one.
 

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The M-Switches are nice, but they also need relays or an M-Unit. The wires and switches can't handle the current the components require.

If you'd prefer to use something pre-made, we sell the entire relay kit you'll need: Ignition Coil or Headlight Subharness - Sparck Moto

Or if you want to tackle the work yourself, you'll need to get a 4 or 5-pin relay and some various wiring supplies.

The idea is that the relay will act as the switch for your ignition coils and your actual switch will be used to activate the relay.

The four pins we'll be using on the relay are numbered as 30, 85, 86, and 87.

30 is input power and 87 is output power. 85 and 86 are used to energize the relay and it will switch on (aka closed) when power is running through the energizing pins.

In this instance, pin 30 needs power from the battery positive terminal (fuse this connection if you want to run directly from the battery) or from a black wire in the harness. Pin 87 feeds power to the ignition coils, but only when the relay is closed.

Pin 86 gets grounded and pin 85 gets power from your handlebar switch (blue wire from your Domino control).

Black on your switch goes to black in the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, I think I get it. I'm just gonna buy your subharness. It'll work with most switches, right?
 

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The M-Switches are nice, but they also need relays or an M-Unit. The wires and switches can't handle the current the components require.

If you'd prefer to use something pre-made, we sell the entire relay kit you'll need: Ignition Coil or Headlight Subharness - Sparck Moto

Or if you want to tackle the work yourself, you'll need to get a 4 or 5-pin relay and some various wiring supplies.

The idea is that the relay will act as the switch for your ignition coils and your actual switch will be used to activate the relay.

The four pins we'll be using on the relay are numbered as 30, 85, 86, and 87.

30 is input power and 87 is output power. 85 and 86 are used to energize the relay and it will switch on (aka closed) when power is running through the energizing pins.

In this instance, pin 30 needs power from the battery positive terminal (fuse this connection if you want to run directly from the battery) or from a black wire in the harness. Pin 87 feeds power to the ignition coils, but only when the relay is closed.

Pin 86 gets grounded and pin 85 gets power from your handlebar switch (blue wire from your Domino control).

Black on your switch goes to black in the harness.
Matt, are the relays you supply with that subharness designed to be on all the time, as in the hours that the bike could be running continuously on a road trip for example? It's my understanding that common relays are only to be on for limited periods or the coil can overheat and burn.
 

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Sensei
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As best I can calculate, a 5 ohm ignition coil on a 12 Volt system only draws 2.4 amps, so a 3 amp contact WILL handle that 80% draw...... (assuming Ohms law still holds...)
Since only one coil is energized at any given time, it should be fine.....

Matt, or anyone more electrically inclined, please feel free to correct me IF I'm in the wrong.....
 

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Steve - I should have been more specific about which coil I was referring to. It was actually a question for Matt about the coils in the relays, and if the relays included in Sparck Moto subharness were of the variety designed for constant use. I did a lot of auto security and accessories during the '90s and we were told the coil that operated the common relay was designed for intermittent use and would eventually burn out if put in a continuous-use situation
 

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Sensei
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Tom... I was referring to the original allegation that the handlebar switch unit shown could not handle the ignition coil power draw without a relay...It CAN, so what the unnecessary relay could or could not do is a moot point IMHO.....
Would be nice to know if the relays could or could not handle continuous use just as general information however.....
 

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Understood now - since your comment was immediately after my question to Matt, I incorrectly assumed your reply was about what I'd asked
 

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All automotive relays are rated for continuous duty, I would only concerned about mounting for vibration resistance, even the cheapest relays seem to last forever.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just need to affirm - the green wiring in the stock harness is ground, right? And where does that connect to the frame?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just to close this out, it's working great (without the subharness):

Switch ----> Harness

Blue ------> Black
Yellow/Black -----------> White/Black
Orange ---------> Red/Orange
Black/White --------> Green (which attaches to the downtube just below the battery box).

The first two are the on/off switch and the second pair are the starter button.
 
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