Honda Twins banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I'd love to hear some opinions you have - I am working on removing surface rust from the exterior of my tank and all is going pretty well -

I am getting close to addressing the inside, which overall is not too bad - From the research I have done, I am leaning towards either Vinegar and a handful of BB's or Metal Rescue Rust Remover Bath -

If anyone has any insight to share, I am all ears!

Oh, the next question is when I have a perfectly clean tank interior, should I bother sealing it (i.e. - Red Kote)? - I have heard of both good and bad experiences with sealing and any insight would be greatly appreciated -

Thanks all :) IMG_0769.jpg IMG_1194.jpg
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
854 Posts
I'm totally against coating a tank, I would much rather deal with a bit of surface rust than a pealing liner. Others swear by sealers but its not for me. Your tank doesn't look too bad. All the methods you mention work, try the cheap easy ones first and see how it goes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jfman124

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Personally, I think too many things can go wrong with the sealers. If the bike is going to be ridden regularly and tank kept relatively full you won't need a sealer.
But I was tempted to try the sealer approach this last time - think I was going to go with Por 15's version.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jfman124

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks a million for the insight with this...Honestly, this is what i was hoping to hear...If there is no serious rust on the inside of the tank, I really didn't want to start messing with a sealer...But admittedly I am a newbie and my experience is minimal...I know there will be mistakes but messing up a sealer application is not one I want to make...

Once the inside of the tank is clean and relatively rust free, what would you advise I do to prevent flash rusting? I read about motor oil and or WD40 but wouldn't I need to re-clean it out again before adding gas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
I have done it both ways, derusted it the first time. That only last so long with the extreme tempature changes here in Wisconsin. Went with redcote and i am very happy with it so far. 2nd season now, and nothing in my filters, thats a plus to me!

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,364 Posts
From what I have read.. if it works.. it works great.. but if it doesn't.. you have a crudstorm on your hands...
unless u have a RARE tank that can't be replaced.. I would give it every chance to be sucessfull. Then again.. why would u be riding such a RARE bike...
If the rust is gone, no leaks, .. no need for sealer.. if ur gonna store it, drain, and coat the inside with oil..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
From what I have read.. if it works.. it works great.. but if it doesn't.. you have a crudstorm on your hands...
unless u have a RARE tank that can't be replaced.. I would give it every chance to be sucessfull. Then again.. why would u be riding such a RARE bike...
If the rust is gone, no leaks, .. no need for sealer.. if ur gonna store it, drain, and coat the inside with oil..
Sounds like a great plan to me...I appreciate it...silly question, but what type of oil would you coat it with? And would I have to clean it out again before putting gas in the tank? Like I said, I’m new at this! Thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
I have seen it on other sites and forums, not sure exactly what the process is called but it involves using a battery charger and you put the ground cable to the shell of the tank and fill the tank most or all the way with water and baking soda I believe and put the positive cable to a piece of rebar or any piece of carbon steel and stick it in the tank but it can not touch the sides of the tank. Turn on the charger and the rust separates form the tank and goes the the steel in the tank after a certain amount of time turn the charger off and take the piece of steel out and you have a rust free inner tank. I got to try this even if just to experiment.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
676 Posts
CB450MWL is speaking of electrolysis which totally works but my experience has been it is a “line of sight” technique. Your electrode only attracts what it can “see”. So it takes several applications with different orientations of the electrode. It works fast but can be tedious to isolate the electrode. Also you need an old school (constant on) battery charger and not the new ones that cycle on and off sensing the battery charge.
What has worked for me and is cheap is vinegar. I’ve always used white but I’ve read that you should use Apple cider. Both probably work the same IMO. I fill the tank with a gallon of vinegar and put 4 pieces of sash chain in there and do the shake. Obviously it helps to seal all the openings or else you’ll end up smelling like vinegar but at least the spills won’t hurt your paint. After shaking, fill the tank up completely with vinegar and then let it sit for 12-24 hours. Later, dump the contents into a bucket so you can reuse the vinegar and then rinse the tank interior with a high pressure nozzle on a garden hose. Grab a flashlight and peer into the tank. You’ll be impressed with the results but you’ll probably want to do a 2nd treatment. Using a funnel with a strainer helps to clean your vinegar for multiple applications. Keep treating, shaking, and rinsing with water until you like the results. When happy, rinse with a bottle of rubbing alcohol to disperse water and then dry the interior as quickly as possible with compressed air or a heat gun. Use the tank immediately filling with gas or fog with WD40, PB Blast, etc for storage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,096 Posts
I've cleaned a couple out with Metal Rescue. I didn't line them with anything afterward and I've used one of them for a couple years with no returning rust. I use non-ethanol gas and keep the tank pretty full when I'm not riding it. The other one is on a shelf - I coated the inside of it with Marvel Mystery Oil. When I want to use the tank, I'll just put gas in it, since Marvel is a gas additive anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,942 Posts
I've got a tank that I derusted using Harpic toilet cleaner ( hydrochloric acid ), washed out after the acid then used 2 stroke oil to stop it re rusting in storage.

A bit of 2 stroke oil mixed with fresh petrol ( gasoline ) will just smoke a bit until second or third fill up, no harm done.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alan F.

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,364 Posts
I used a acid from Home Depot.. the pool concentrate not the paint concentrate.. worked instantly..
HOWEVER.. this has to be nutrilized, I think I needed (10-16) small boxes of baking soda .. as for oil.. MMO, is a great choice ..
83X .. pretty much the same way I did it..
Do a search, there are a few threads here with pics..
Good luck AND WEAR SAFTY EQUIPT!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
I have cleaned several tanks with electrolysis. you can use oxy clean, borax, household salt among others. I clean the + electrode about every hour. There are other was to clean a tank but this way I can walk away from it and do other things. Also dont have any acids around the grand and great grand kids. i dont care how careful you are things happen. I coat the inside with wd40 when finished.

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,178 Posts
I've tried electrolysis and its amazing the amount of crap it'll pull out of a tank. Its a good first step on a heavily rusted tank.

Its the oxygen in the air that'll make a tank (or other steel part) flash rust after you remove your vinegar or acid. Rinsing with water (water contains oxygen) will help slow the flash rusting. If you use an acid its good to drain the acid and fill with a mix of baking soda and water to neutralize any residual acid.
If you're coating the tank afterward, use boiling hot water with baking soda to heat up the tank. When drained, fill with clean hot water to keep the tank hot. Once drained the heat will help with evaporation, once dry perform your coating process. Or fill with gas if not coating.

Another option is to drain out your water rinse and throw in some dry-gas, its made to absorb water, its oily, and you can mix it with gas without worries.

One method I'm interested in is to derusting with vinegar and drain, THEN add Coca-Cola which contains Phosphoric Acid. This will leave a coating of Phosphorus on the inside of the tank, inhibiting rust.

There is also the idea of DIY Nickel, or Zinc then Nickel plating the interior of a tank. I've never tried it, but its on my list.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
My very first job as a new hire in 1960 was using a sledge hammer and a huge wrench to break the nuts loose on the cover of a turbine. we used Coke-cola on the rusty nuts. I never drank another coke.

Bill
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,638 Posts
I used a motorcycle cleaner + sealer kit from POR15 on mine. So far so good!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thanks so much to everyone for the advice; seriously appreciated!

In the end, I think I am going to remove the rust with Metal Rescue, then clean it with Simple Green, and then line it with Marvel Mystery - I think this seems like a safe plan? -

Just a couple more questions about the MMO: Approximately how much should I add and how long about do you think it will be fine to sit in the tank for? I am not sure how long it will be before this project is completed -

Thanks so much again everyone :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,096 Posts
Thanks so much to everyone for the advice; seriously appreciated!

In the end, I think I am going to remove the rust with Metal Rescue, then clean it with Simple Green, and then line it with Marvel Mystery - I think this seems like a safe plan? -

Just a couple more questions about the MMO: Approximately how much should I add and how long about do you think it will be fine to sit in the tank for? I am not sure how long it will be before this project is completed -

Thanks so much again everyone :)
I added enough MMO to be able to coat the inside of the tank by rotating it all around. When you get ready to use the tank, just dump out any excess MMO and fill the tank with gas. The MMO is meant to be a fuel (and oil) additive, so it will mix with the gas and burn just fine.

As for the Metal Rescue, I bought only one gallon (I'm a cheapskate) and poured it into the tank, along with some 6" lengths of porch swing chain from the hardware store. The chain works as well as nuts and bolts for agitating to loosen the rust, and is a lot easier to get back out of the tank. I shook the tank and turned it on a different side every day or two while I worked on other parts of the bike. That way, every interior surface of the tank gets an equal time submerged in the Metal Rescue.

When the tank looked rust-free, I poured the Metal Rescue through a strainer back into the container. I hosed out the tank with plain water and dried it out with a hair drier (when my wife wasn't home...lol). Coated it with MMO and was finished.
If I had it to do over again, I think I would have poured a bunch of Coca Cola into the tank and let it sit for a day or two after rinsing the Metal Rescue out. That would provide a thin phosphate coating to help inhibit future rust. After that, another rinse, dry, and then the MMO if the tank wasn't going to be used immediately.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top