[pecantree]

Well heck.
2 steps forward and 1 back.
Working on the starter system and at a stoping spot.
Decided to pull the shocks and start buffing out the blemish's.
The threaded part of the top stud broke without about 2 threads left.

So, any recommendations?

Drill it out and tap it?
Thanks Y'all
Steve

EDIT MADE IT STICKY!!!!
Franz

 

[66Sprint]

That would work..... I'd through drill, tap, and weld a long threaded stud (on the inside of the frame) so you can still use an acorn nut.....Note that while the original was 10mm, the "modern" metric 10mm replacement may have different pitch threading than the original threads, so the acorns could be "side" dependant.....I'd also cut/grind/file the remnant of the "old" post off flush with the "shoulder' before drilling/tapping....

 

[HerrDeacon]

Whoa, that sucks. Whatever method you go with please post the results here. I've never had to do anything of the sort and would like to see it done as I'm sure I'll have to one of these days.

 

[outobie]

I've done the same thing on one of my race bikes...I didn't bother to weld in a stud, I ground flat, drilled (slightly off center ) tapped and ran a bolt in...

mechanically functional but aestetically doesn't match the other side

 

[Dirtbag]

You could replace both sides with a shoulder bolt from mcmaster.com.

 

[nigelrharris03]

I guess it was better to happen while you were not riding it.
It will be very interesting to see the final solution

 

[MNellis]

As others have mentioned, I would cut/grind the what's left of the threaded portion of and drill/tap it for an 8mm bolt. You cold either just use a bolt or install the bold and but the head off for an acorn nut.

I've got some extra Acorn nuts in my bolt/nut box. There are a couple of good bolt supply houses here in town that carry just about anything you'll need. Austin Bolt is one (Metric & Rutland area) and American Bolt on Burleson Rd. in So. Austin.

 

[pecantree]

Mike: thanks for the acorn offer.
Thanks for everybody's suggestions.
I ordered a passel of SS machine screws and the chrome acorn nuts for the shocks.
I want to start swapping out those nasty little philips!
The company is http://dmpfasteners.com/shop/
They offer allen pan head in SS , chrome, or black. I like the look of the pan head over the allen barrel head.
And it wasn't much more than the local bolt shop

I ground down the stud, center punched it, ( and I was still off as you can see in the pic), drilled out to 11/32 and tapped it first with a 10mm x 1.25 taper.
Could not find a bottom tap in S. Austin so ground off the end of my taper tap to make a bottom tap.
I'm always nervous about doing a deep tap without a jig, because if your cock-eyed, your f#@*ed!
I couldn't decide whether to use Lock Tite or JB weld. I ended up liberally dousing w/ locktite.(looked like I'd killed something)
Hole is 5/8 deep
[attachment=1:3fmt5sur]IMG_3176.JPG[/attachment:3fmt5sur]
Here is finished stud.
[attachment=0:3fmt5sur]IMG_3177.JPG[/attachment:3fmt5sur]

 

[Dirtbag]

Very nice work.

 

[HerrDeacon]

Nice work, thanks for posting the pics. I'm sure someone will find them useful.

 

[nigelrharris03]

I would be definately proud off that job

 

[pecantree]

Update on this fix. The thread-lock failed, I'm going to J-B weld the stud in.
Otherwise,still good.

 

[Sharkmonkey]

Why not just use a bolt? Seems like it would be a ton easier than trying to tighten a stud in there.

 

[pecantree]

I'd like to keep this as original as possible!

 

[66Sprint]

Drill a 3/32" or 1/8" hole at 90 degrees and tap in a roll pin.....

 

[boogiesg]

Hmm, I guess you don't have a welder handy, a few tacks around the edge should hold it.

edit: oops didn't notice you already answered that.

 

[Guzzirik]

Good job!!!

 

[black350]

As others have mentioned, I would cut/grind the what's left of the threaded portion of and drill/tap it for an 8mm bolt. You cold either just use a bolt or install the bold and but the head off for an acorn nut.

I've got some extra Acorn nuts in my bolt/nut box. There are a couple of good bolt supply houses here in town that carry just about anything you'll need. Austin Bolt is one (Metric & Rutland area) and American Bolt on Burleson Rd. in So. Austin.

In a similar situation with my CB, what is the reason you would tap for m8 instead of m10?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[matebrown]

Drill a 3/32" or 1/8" hole at 90 degrees and tap in a roll pin.....

Or a set screw... I would prefer to see a hole drilled 90 degrees to the frame stud that was tapped, the new bolt screwed in, and then tack weld through the hole to new bolt. my worry is that every time you go to remove the shock (well, it may not be that often), the repair will come apart.

 

[slofut]

Wow, I wouldn't expect red locktite to fail like that. Usually requires 400 degrees heat to disassemble. Great job, couldn't expect any better freehand drilling other than luck. I'd clean it out properly and do red locktite again.