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I also realized awhile back that my frame sn doesn't match the "original" engine sn (frame 2006110; engine 2006122). I assume that they are supposed to match? I would think Mr. Honda would want it that way.
You should consider yourself lucky to have one that is only 12 digits apart. For all of Soichiro's greatness, he had the factory doing extensive and often destructive testing on engines and many were pulled off the line as the bikes were being assembled, so it's incredibly rare to find one as close as yours (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
Thanks for the knowledge, Tom!
Any idea about my battery box lack of brackets?
 

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Are you absolutely sure the brackets weren't carefully cut off by a PO? Did you compare part numbers and fiches themselves to see if you could spot the differences between years (if any)? Have you seen this yet? (can't recall if I posted it for you or not, it all runs together after a while)
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 · (Edited)
Thanks Tom: I checked the fisches and it looks like the box didn't have brackets for 1974, then it had brackets for 1975 until sn 2100001, then went back to no bracket. Go figure! Thanks again!
 

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Well, that's an odd conclusion to come to - makes you really wonder why Honda did what they did, and what they did before and after for the component mounting. Guess you'd have to see both side by side to be sure... if only it wasn't about 40 years too late. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
I finished the color coats on the tank today, then it was time to apply the decals and shoot the 2K clear over it.

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I messed up the stripes in a few places and couldn't get them squeezed out flat, but I decided that I could live with it.

As for my battle with the rear wheel hub bushings? I also surrendered and took them to a machine shop that said they could get them out. I tried dremel grinding one out, but the closer I got to the edges, the more I worried about gouging the hub and/or getting the holes out of round. Some things are just better left to professional expertise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
Thanks, Tom. I have used Spraymax 2K clear several times over the years and always have had good results. It's especially good with covering small parts and is perfect for tanks and side covers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
Here's the tank with the clear coat dry:

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Getting the oil rotor put back in and the case closed up, and when I dry fit the gasket I noticed where circled in red below that it kind of runs across where the oil screen feed pipe will be-- is this okay? The gaskets were from a Honda dealer, but they're not Honda gaskets, and I've been a little wary of this set since the cylinder base o rings didn't fit, even though everything else has fit okay:
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Well that's weird. Can't say I've seen a gasket that far from a proper fit in one spot that fits everywhere else, and it makes me wonder what other engine it might have been intended for. I wouldn't try to modify it to work, I'd look for the right gasket if it were mine
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 · (Edited)
Oil rotor is back in. Had to tighten and loosen the lock washer about a dozen times until I could get the tab washer lined up correctly. I also finally got myself a nice set of snap ring pliers, so the circlip went in with no trouble at all, which is a big difference from all the other times I have struggled with a flimsy, cheapo tool. Now waiting for a new gasket before closing this side up.

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
Today I fashioned a bracket on my bracketless battery box. Good news was that with an upgraded rectifier/regulator unit, I would only need one. And standard corner brackets worked just fine and matched the mounting holes on the unit:

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Well, the rear wheel hub roller coaster ride continues? I got the hub back from the machine shop, bushings removed but...

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So, an extra hole I didn't bargain for. Is it a problem? Will it effect the integrity of the hub or can I just JB weld it? TIG weld it? Leave it? Scrap the hub? Thanks for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Folks with experience: Now the old bushings are finally out, is it better to put in the new bushings, brakes and wheel bearings before lacing the spokes, or should I build the wheel first and then put everything in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Put in the new wheel bearings today:
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My retainer tool's pins were about 5mm off from the retainer on the hub...
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So I made a tool from a piece of fence post and some bolts and broke it loose...
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And finished up with an adjustable pin wrench.
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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
New rear brakes in:
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And new starter solenoid:
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Also new damper bushings and rear wheel bearings in. NOS sprocket is also ready to go.
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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
The damper bushings were about 2mm above the surface of the hub. I drove them in all the way today with the use of a heat gun and for this job, I can't recommend one enough. Ten minutes and they went right in. The heat was much easier to control than with a plumbing torch.
 
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