[Alfalfa]

Gonna take that cylinder head off this weekend and have a few questions before I start. The manual mentions installing new stud seals over 2 right studs. The picture in this manual is not helpful for this step. What are stud seals and where can I get them. Also do I need a NEW cam chain joint for reassembly? Any other tips on cylinder head removal / assembly are greatly appreciated.

 

[66Sprint]

The stud seals are rubber sleeves that come in the gasket set......Yes, order and replace the riveted "master link" in the cam chain

 

[tbpmusic]

Stud seals would be #6 in the picture.......

The two (rider's) right side studs on a 450 are also actually oil passages.
So those two studs get the seals (rings, actually) we're talking about.
Those same two studs have copper washers on top (#10) - don't get them mixed up and use ordinary washers there, or you'll have an oil leak that just won't quit.......

 

[Alfalfa]

where would yall recommend picking up these things

 

[Alfalfa]

its a cb500T if that makes a diff.

 

[tbpmusic]

where would yall recommend picking up these things

Most complete gasket kits include them.
They are still available from Honda, but cost about $4.50 each (??!!).
The copper washers are NLA.

I probably have a couple used ones around......

 

[Alfalfa]

Is it a safe assumption that a gasket set for a CB450 is sufficient

 

[66Sprint]

Yes, the gasket set for a 450 works fine....... I get copper washers at my local hardware store...they are thinner, so only one use, but work fine............... Steve

 

[Alfalfa]

cool now what about the cylinder alignment rods/dowels. Are those already in the engine or do I need to find some?

 

[Alfalfa]

and will any DK219 joint work?

 

[tbpmusic]

cool now what about the cylinder alignment rods/dowels. Are those already in the engine or do I need to find some?

Make sure they're still not in place on the cylinder or head....

The 10x14 knock pins that go between the bottom of the cylinders and the top crankcase are still available from Honda, cheap.

The larger 12x24 knock pins that go between the top of the cylinder and the bottom of the head are no longer available from Honda.
They are available from this boat place that does Honda Marine parts. It's a real good source for off the wall washers and weird stuff......many odds and ends are used in marine stuff.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda/H-94301-12240.html

 

[tbpmusic]

and will any DK219 joint work?

Never say "never" or "always" with this stuff...........

We were kind of hoping you'd tell us.......

 

[Alfalfa]

will a bicycle chain remover work on the cam chain?

 

[Alfalfa]

Has anybody tried this? I just got my new master links in the mail and want to take the head off. What tool do you guys personally use for cam chain removal?

 

[tbpmusic]

Has anybody tried this? I just got my new master links in the mail and want to take the head off. What tool do you guys personally use for cam chain removal?

To remove them I generally just use a Dremel to grind down the pins, then a small punch finishes the job.

Riveting the new one is a different issue, generally requires some sort of tool.
I use a chain tool, but had to modify it to fit inside the alloted area - there's an access problem.....

Here's a photo of an item similar to the one I use - I had to shorten one of the driving "pins" to allow the tool to fit into the cam opening and give me a straight shot at the rivet link.

Though I still use a Dremel and punch to remove them, it's just quicker....

 

[MNellis]

cool now what about the cylinder alignment rods/dowels. Are those already in the engine or do I need to find some?

The locating pins should still be in the head or on the cylinder. Be careful, they tend to drop out when you're carrying stuff around and roll under on the floor.

 

[MNellis]

Has anybody tried this? I just got my new master links in the mail and want to take the head off. What tool do you guys personally use for cam chain removal?

To remove them I generally just use a Dremel to grind down the pins, then a small punch finishes the job.

Riveting the new one is a different issue, generally requires some sort of tool.
I use a chain tool, but had to modify it to fit inside the alloted area - there's an access problem.....

Here's a photo of an item similar to the one I use - I had to shorten one of the driving "pins" to allow the tool to fit into the cam opening and give me a straight shot at the rivet link.

Though I still use a Dremel and punch to remove them, it's just quicker....

Thats the exact same tool I recently used and I did not have any clearance problems removing the pin. Like Bill, I used a dremel tool to grind the pin down first. I've used punches in the past but I always tend to bend the small punch or use the wrong punch or something to screw it up. For me, the tool is pretty much fool proof for both removing and installing the links.

On the other hand, the tool is not cheap and unless you need it for drive chains or plan on using it more than once, the punch method for removing and installing the link looks very attractive.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

"the puch method"????? Enlighten me please?

GB :mrgreen:

 

[tbpmusic]

"the puch method"????? Enlighten me please?

GB :mrgreen:

Grind the ends of the pins off the old master - use a small punch to tap the link out.

 

[MNellis]

"the puch method"????? Enlighten me please?

GB :mrgreen:

Grind the ends of the pins off the old master - use a small punch to tap the link out.

I think he's making fun of my spelling.