I also checked the condensers according to the service manual where you hook them up in line with a battery and a light bulb. They 'passed the test' by not allowing the light to turn on. Sort of an uncomplete test if you ask me to determine if they're working or not My valves are set. My coils pass an electrical test both when the bike is cold and when it's hot. I've nipped about 1/2" off of the plug wires and sprayed contact cleaner inside of them and reinstalled the resistor caps. Compression tests out on a warm engine at ~170psi in both cylinders. The carburetors are completely (meticulously) rebuilt.Last night I installed the new breaker points that came in the mail. I static timed the engine using a speedo light using tbpmusic's timing thread. Then I ran the bike with a timing light hooked up so I could test it at idle as well as at advance. Timing is now bang on and my pitted points are sitting in a box as spares.
But... It's still missing at about 6krpm. My only thoughts are that the coils are just old and crusty, in particular the plug wires. I caught it arcing out of the wire insulation to my clutch cable once and put a bunch of electrical tape on it to make a barrier.
My spark plugs look great. Just like you'd want them to on something not running rich or lean.
The only other thing on my radar is that the on/off switch on the right handlebar almost works too well. In the 'on' position the bike is easy to start and runs. But when you want to kill the engine, it BARELY takes any bumping of the switch either way to either 'off' position to almost immediately kill the bike. It's almost as if my connection to keep the coils powered up could possibly be weak.