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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At the moment, I have three sets of CB350 triple clamps (don't ask); one on my project bike, one from another 350G, and one from a K4; as best I can tell, they're all the same. I found this thread, which lays out the cross references (predictably, I found it after I ran my own cross-checks at cmsnl...).

In searching for replacements for a cracked triple (both fork tubes), I came across this post, which matches an awful lot of triples I see for sale, but doesn't match the ones in my garage. Mine all look like this, which is to say, mine don't have the V-notch in the middle of the upper clamp. I see three part numbers for triples at CMSNL but they don't have photos for all of them; anyone know the history here? Is the V-notched design better/stronger than the older design? I certainly see broken clamps of both varieties for sale, but I'm guessing the notched version doesn't need the D-washer.

Thanks.
 

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The (2) sets of the PIC's you linked to are the SAME Top Triple Tree.

The ONLY difference is one still has the lower section of the handle bar mounts that sit in the rubber shock bushing still installed.

ALL Clamp Type Top Triple trees REQUIRE the "D" Spacer Washer to "REDUCE the chance of cracking.

NOTE: I said "REDUCE" the chance of cracking - Over Torqueing and improper installation will still result in a cracked triple tree.
Also you CANNOT simply grind one side of a standrd washer down to make it "D" shaped.
The "D" Washer is a specific thickness that is much thicker than a standard washer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The (2) sets of the PIC's you linked to are the SAME Top Triple Tree.

The ONLY difference is one still has the lower section of the handle bar mounts that sit in the rubber shock bushing still installed.
Respectfully, I must disagree; see the highlighted areas in the images below:

This version has fully closed upper tube mounts (and is the style in my garage):
cb350_upper_tree_closed_style.jpg

...while this one has a V-notch in the middle of the bolt-point.
Honda CB350 top triple 1972-73 notched_style.jpg

ALL Clamp Type Top Triple trees REQUIRE the "D" Spacer Washer to "REDUCE the chance of cracking.

NOTE: I said "REDUCE" the chance of cracking - Over Torqueing and improper installation will still result in a cracked triple tree.
Also you CANNOT simply grind one side of a standrd washer down to make it "D" shaped.
The "D" Washer is a specific thickness that is much thicker than a standard washer.
I'm certainly in no position to dispute; I'm waaaaaay new to this. I wondered about the need for the spacer as the second style above seems to have less metal at the pinch point, so I had the thought that perhaps the washer/spacer was no longer needed. Then again, possibly it's needed more.

Thoughts?
 

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Every 72 or 73 CB or CL 350 I have ever taken apart has had the special washer. That includes 350G models. They tend to break when you tighten them without the washer.

I don't recall ever seeing any with a v at the pinch point.
 

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I didn't catch the "V" Groove. I know it was in your test but I glossed over it.

I see what you circled in the pic.

But I'm with Boomer - I've never seen one like that either.
Are you sure it's the same diameter dimensions and spacing for the Tubes?
 

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^^^I think you may be right, Dale - the pictures aren't very clear, but it appears to have a V-shaped cutaway in the '74 and '75 CB360 top bridge and curiously, doesn't show the D-shaped washer in the pic of the '74 version. There is a round washer shown in the '75 fiche but it isn't implied that it's used like the D-shaped washer on the 350s

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cb360-sport-1974-usa-handlebartop-bridgestem_bighu0231f9004_0843.gif

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cb360tk0-1975-usa-handlebartop-bridge_bighu0044f7104_ef85.gif
 

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I just went out and looked at my 73 cb350g. It's all original except for exhaust. No v notch in the triple.
 

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My 73cb350g came with the washers from the factory.
The replacement (because yes, mine broke too) will not accept the washers. The gap where the pinch bolt goes through is way too tight for the washers.
This inside bore diameter where the forks fit into is the same on the oe replacement part and the factory part, but I would have to spread the opening apart to fit the washers which I fear is a bigger risk to breaking than running without the washers.
Sometimes you just can't put that square peg into a round hole.
 
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