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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seems like i may never. Thought id have some fun building a custom in my spare time. Pick up on that runs, mod it, tweak it... have a little fun like when I was a kid. But, it's turned into a he'll storm with my limited time to work on it.

I've posted some carb issues previously and since govern them down, soaked am, cleaned them and put the rejetted carbs back on the bike. Maybe I should try the factory jets with the pods instead of 90s and 125s...?

Now it'll idle till warm then gets worse till it blows the carbs from the rubber booted intakes mounted on the cylinder.... every time. It'll fool you... tweak a jet and let if sit then she idles fine till you throttle it and get her warm then nothingness.... no warm fuzzy your on the right track.. more like start again.... I passed up skeet shooting to get this on the road... now I've done neither.
 

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Intake backfire is related to a very lean run condition usually. How are the insulators? new, used or I think they're ok? How are the air cut valve diaphragms? When you cleaned the carbs were you able to get fuel/carb spray out all 3 of the idle circuit ports?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Intake backfire is related to a very lean run condition usually. How are the insulators? new, used or I think they're ok? How are the air cut valve diaphragms? When you cleaned the carbs were you able to get fuel/carb spray out all 3 of the idle circuit ports?
Insulators have no cracks and look fine. Air cut valves weren’t replaced and the small o rings were gone. The jet ports were clear except the slow jet with the rubber cap stopper... I actually didn’t know there was anything in there to replace and one was not clear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok. Game plan and not sure if it'll work....

Remove carbs, needle shims, 125 and 90 jets.
Install factory 112 and 72s leave pods on carbs
Check valve clearance and adjust as necessary.

I want to run motor and frame, handle bars, tires, straight pipes, and seat only; necessities. I want this a grunge simplicitic bike that's dependable and basic. It's there, just gotta find the right mix since Airbox, muffler baffles and all Honda environmental or engineered products ha been removed.
 

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I'll suggest that you plug the air cut valves. Where the small O-ring goes insert a small ball of solder to plug the vacuum port. Assemble the rest of the valve as normal, with diaphragm and spring regardless of condition.
The carb insulators start failing where the rubber is bonded to the mount plate, nothing visible and usually passes a carb spray test for leaks. I test them with the carbs firmly mounted and lean full body weight on the carbs followed by lifting as hard as I can. If they're bad or close to it they will fail this test
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll suggest that you plug the air cut valves. Where the small O-ring goes insert a small ball of solder to plug the vacuum port. Assemble the rest of the valve as normal, with diaphragm and spring regardless of condition.
The carb insulators start failing where the rubber is bonded to the mount plate, nothing visible and usually passes a carb spray test for leaks. I test them with the carbs firmly mounted and lean full body weight on the carbs followed by lifting as hard as I can. If they're bad or close to it they will fail this test
So the insulators show no sign of cracks though some peeling paint. The rubber washer in them is flat against the metal and hasn't been replaced. The test you suggest is to mount them and the carbs as normal and lift all to see if the break, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok so I reinstalled factory jets; 112s and 72s and left the pods on. I had to leave the shim on the needle because the blue lock tite wouldn’t let go. Shim was based on the pod set up with 125 and 90 jets that wasn’t working at all...

Long story short. It idles great. Have it on video, but when clutched and put in gear bogs down and begins to sound terrible. Further clutching and shifting gears is harsh, not smooth, and can’t get it back to neutral till I kill the motor... if it weren’t for bad luck..,
 

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So the insulators show no sign of cracks though some peeling paint. The rubber washer in them is flat against the metal and hasn't been replaced. The test you suggest is to mount them and the carbs as normal and lift all to see if the break, correct?
Yep, it's a break it or pass test. You can also do it with the engine running and see if it changes the idle. Those O-rings for the head mating can leak, put a dab of sealant on them before assembly.
Sounds like you clutch needs adjusting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep. You all got it. Tweaked the clutch and was riding in parking lot at least.

Thinking of going back to factory handle bars so the clutch cable fits better. It’s maxed out adjusted on the shorty bars. Think that’s a good idea or no? Riding comfortably and without worry of last thread just sounds better.
 

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Changing the bars won't change the clutch adjustment, it'll just change how much slack is in the cable housing routing.
If the case lever is at the 12 o'clock position when it's adjusted or if that's where the freeplay ends then the clutch frictions are worn, needing replacement. If that's good then you're dealing with a stretched cable, needing replacement.
 
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