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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I started the CM400 after two weeks of it sitting. It's been modded, but has ran fine till recently. Of course I'm feeling more comfortable with the mods and pushing the bike harder...
This is the second time after about 30 min rides this has happened.
Coming to a cold stop, at a light or intersection, it dies, then acts like it doesn't have the juice to turn the motor over; it clicks, at the two-pole relay or solenoid, then after several times stops clicking. Then requires a jump start which works. Afterward, there are short runs like to home in which it will start up again on its own.

Any advice appreciated.
 

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Sounds like a battery charging issue. How old is the battery? What does it read when fully charged? Did you make changes to the electrical system? Add accessories? Using a multimeter, what does the battery voltage read when you rev the engine?



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Air, fuel(compression), and spark.. remove one of those and you will locate you culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sounds like a battery charging issue. How old is the battery? What does it read when fully charged? Did you make changes to the electrical system? Add accessories? Using a multimeter, what does the battery voltage read when you rev the engine?



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When charged it pegs my multimeter. The battery is about 3 months old, about a month ago I had it tested as good. It sat through cold and rain for two weeks and started the scoot boldly. This only happens after about 25 min of hard riding, not idle or 35 mph but a constant 60-65 mph.
Yes, re arranged the wiring to a tray under seat. But main harness was not cut or modified. The rear blinker and brake light was however, but I followed the handbooks diagram and they work and blink fine. However, after the scoot dies, as previously noted, the blinkers don't blink, come on bit no blink. Headlamp works and brake light... Once jump started the blinkers blink again.
Thanks
 

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When charged it pegs my multimeter. Not specific enough.....What "resting" Voltage does it ACTUALLY read?...and what voltage when it fails? The battery is about 3 months old, about a month ago I had it tested as good. What is the ACTUAL (not Pb equiv) AMPERE rating of the battery? (What battery are you running?) It sat through cold and rain for two weeks and started the scoot boldly. This only happens after about 25 min of hard riding, not idle or 35 mph but a constant 60-65 mph. What rectifier/regulator are you using?
Yes, re arranged the wiring to a tray under seat. But main harness was not cut or modified. The rear blinker and brake light was however, but I followed the handbooks diagram and they work and blink fine. However, after the scoot dies, as previously noted, the blinkers don't blink, come on bit no blink. This typically indicates a weak battery.... Headlamp works Wattages please... and brake light... Once jump started the blinkers blink again.
Thanks
Please provide info requested in Blue above......
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sure. I'd be happy to and thanks. I'm 300 + miles away from home but will be back Sunday. If you don't mind I'll provide that info then . If it doesn't rain, I have no she'd. It sits under a cycle cover.
Again thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I'm not home, currently so can't test anything. But it would seem to me that whatever, if anything, keeps the battery charged while running it is not working.
 

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On the SOHC bikes the battery and charging system can prevent the starter from functioning but they have no effect on the ignition system. The fact that it will start normally after a jump start and a short ride leads me to suspect a bad connection, possibly at one end or the other of either of the battery cables.


The problem with it stalling (quitting) when you come to a stop is a separate issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok. Got home and tried to start the cm 400. Forgot to put in neutral. Will not start unless neutral. Lights came on and blinkers worked strong but when put in neutral would not turn motor over, click, click then dead within 5 min. Jumped it then it ran but lights dim and blinkers didn't work. In fact did not come on till reved engine. Then rain.... I test battery an hour later and at 12v not on it pegged multi meter... It's basically a riding lawn mower battery for motorcycle bought from pep boys. It's painted so cant read. Image attached.its raining now so again no ride.
 

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Not quite sure what you're saying about the multimeter. If it's an analog meter (it has a needle) it must have a range selection switch. Select a higher range to take your reading. Fully charged battery should read around 13v with the ignition switch off.

Symptoms still lead to multiple possibilities. Bad battery sounds likely since it apparently functions ok on the jumper battery. Batteries have been known to be bad right out of the box. Even heard of a case where the customer didn't install the electrolyte. Didn't know what it was for.

A loose or corroded connection at any of the battery cables is also possible. Check connections at frame, battery negative terminal, battery positive terminal, both solenoid terminals, and starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Removed battery but prior to charging test with multi meter. Images attached. I've not had any real electrical issues till now. The only issue the blinker relay. Replaced that and the went to pinging nicely.
 

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I would suggest trying a different meter. You appear to be reading about 25v from the battery.

Auto parts stores often have loaners, or, better yet, take your battery and meter to an auto parts store. You can then compare readings with your meter and theirs and they can also test the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Ok ok I used meter on DC and seemed to get same reading but I charged battery to full charge it started motor and lights are strong. SO, I chopped the plugs, to it's max sputter and checked plugs. They seemed to look as if I've been running lean. I'm using cheap pods on carbs with no stacks. I looked up lean, normal and rich and both of mine looked white and rich. My solution.... I took two shop rags, the red ones, sprayed with liquid wrench, doubled each (folded), and wrapped the filter of each pod and held them on with zip ties. The result.... A slight hestitation or hicup maxing first off the start, changes to second and max with a slight hesitation at top end, same with third and fourth when throtle is maxed. Not perfect but better than pods alone with nothing but air. Suggestions on getting the hesatation out....it runs better than it has less the top end hicups.

I haven't rode it long enough to get really hot, hot but plan on doing so today if no rain. I will see if it stays running.
By the waybthanks for all the help and advice. I work on the rode and have little time on weekends to do much. So I take some suggestions and test them. Much thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Not much improvement. Bought a new battery on a hunch, chance, whatever...worked great for awhile till I got the bike good and hot. Then it wouldn't turnover with electric start. No kickstart on this cm. I had to push start it.... Over and again.... Gotta be something draining the battery. I have new coils and wires. Could the CDI or regulater I guess. Or a simple wire... Bit it does start initially with a charged battery, then a couple of times maybe till real hot.

Additionally, it bogs in first when juiced at top end in 2, a little at top end on 3 and same in 4th.
 

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There's a check to do to see if your bike is charging, but no point doing it unless your meter works. What does it read on the new fully charged battery? If 12ish V, meter is good, continue. If not, new multimeter.

Then while running, take a voltage reading on the battery. You want 13ish volts at idle. Rev the engine to around 3000 rpm (use idle screw to do this if you don't have a helper or a multimeter with clamping ends)

If you get less than 13 V, battery is not charging, stator is suspect, continue to do full ignition diagnosis. If you get like 17-18 your reg/rec is toast. If 14-15 it's probably okay, and something weird is going on which will require full ignition diagnosis both when cold and hot.

If anyone else knows I'm off on voltages feel free to correct me
 

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Check if the battery is being drained and if it's being charged. Maybe you'll need to find other videos or wait for other answers but it's a start.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
There's a check to do to see if your bike is charging, but no point doing it unless your meter works. What does it read on the new fully charged battery? If 12ish V, meter is good, continue. If not, new multimeter.

Then while running, take a voltage reading on the battery. You want 13ish volts at idle. Rev the engine to around 3000 rpm (use idle screw to do this if you don't have a helper or a multimeter with clamping ends)

If you get less than 13 V, battery is not charging, stator is suspect, continue to do full ignition diagnosis. If you get like 17-18 your reg/rec is toast. If 14-15 it's probably okay, and something weird is going on which will require full ignition diagnosis both when cold and hot.

If anyone else knows I'm off on voltages feel free to correct me
Much thanks and detail. I've covered it for the week now headed to VA for work this week want be back till Friday. Will surely test as directed then and post the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The battery showed 11 when dead, or wouldn't turn over starter, and 13 when charged; haven't tried to start engine with it yet. I believe the battery has 220 CCA.
 
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