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Discussion Starter #1
I didn't do a keyword search but figured you guys might be able to help me on the best aftermarket or simply replacement carbs purchasable. What's a good site or seller that would ship to me? I have about 250-300$ to work with and am looking to install it asap. TIA
 

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Would this just hook right up? Would any other modifications be needed? Thanks by the way
 

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Would this just hook right up? Would any other modifications be needed? Thanks by the way
I can't see in any of your posts what carbs you are dealing with. If everything is there and you are interested in selling them let me know.

It is your money but cheap old me would pick up the phone and call Steve, let him help me with my carb issue and save some Benjamins for when I really need them. Nothing solves your bike problems quicker than someone with thousands of hours of experience.
 

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I understand where you're coming from Brent and trust me, I'm usually the first guy looking to say some cash and do it myself. My car nor bikes have never seen a shop. All my work is done in my own garage. But after working with these for a bit and rebuilding twice. It's looking like I wont be able to get em right. They're close and they're completely full, no parts missing. But I've saved up a good bit and wouldnt mind getting a fresh new part for the old girl. If you guys know of any other plug n plays let me know. These are a little above my range.
 

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The ones from Speedmotoco are your best bet and the only known carb alternative.
I'm guessing that you followed the sticky on Rebuilding VB Carbs in this section. What was the problem beforehand and where are you at now? Did you by chance verify that your ignition system is 100%, carb and ignition symptoms are very close to one another.
 

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Yeah long distance. I took ancient dad and I believe one other posters advice. I looked at the sticky and rebuilt but still got the same runaway issue. And after much troubleshooting it seemed to be a carb issue. So as I said I'm just looking to replace with something new.
 

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Run away, extreme fast idle issues can be a vacuum leak, sticking cables, sticking linkage or sticking choke linkage.
Vacuum leaks can be the sync port screws in the head leaking, carb insulators failing or air cut valve diaphragm.
Sticking cables can be from mis-routed, dirty/rusty cables or damaged cable housing
Sticking linkage can be throttle shaft bushings in the carbs dirty/gummed up inside, sync screw assembled wrong, cable clamp misaligned or cable barrel jamming in the eccentric.
Sticking choke linkage can be the return spring not working, fast idle cam stuck on the mounting bolt, choke plate shaft sticking in the carb body
 

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It's your wallet but personally I don't think throwing money at another set of carbs is going to solve your issues. As stated above by Jim, your run away idle can be from many things and a new set of carbs may still put you right back here again unless you figure out the root cause(s).

I can tell you this from experience, aftermarket carbs are not plug and play even known good ones like Mikunis. They will require a lot of work (and frustration) to tune them to run right. And even then they may never run quite right as compared to the OEM carbs.
 

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The first time I went thru these carbs I repeated the process 3 times until I got it right. I typically spend 8 plus hours going thru each and every little thing.
I'll suggest that after you drop the airbox boots, before undoing the insulator clamps, lean hard on top of the carb then try to lift the bike by the carbs. If the boots don't tear loose they're good.
 
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