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Discussion Starter #1
Found a winter project to keep my idle hands busy for a while. I plan to swap the front end from a Rebel 250 to the front of my Twinstar 200. I've gathered 90% of the "new" front end. Starting with rebuilding the shocks, master cylinder, caliber, and wheel bearings. Don't know if I'm going to swap out the whole triple tree or just the shocks and leave the Twinstar tree in place. Thinking of doing the Rebel tree and replacing bearings for it. Might make for an easier conversion. Still a few little things to work out, head light mounting, speedo swap?
Other than just something to do, I feel a disk will out perform a drum for braking. The choice of a front tire is easier for 18" than the stock 17". I will let me use a motorcycle tire instead of Moped tire! Just seems a bit safer over all.
Any thoughts, suggestions, cautions,????
 

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Found a winter project to keep my idle hands busy for a while. I plan to swap the front end from a Rebel 250 to the front of my Twinstar 200. I've gathered 90% of the "new" front end. Starting with rebuilding the shocks, master cylinder, caliber, and wheel bearings. Don't know if I'm going to swap out the whole triple tree or just the shocks and leave the Twinstar tree in place. Thinking of doing the Rebel tree and replacing bearings for it. Might make for an easier conversion. Still a few little things to work out, head light mounting, speedo swap?
Other than just something to do, I feel a disk will out perform a drum for braking. The choice of a front tire is easier for 18" than the stock 17". I will let me use a motorcycle tire instead of Moped tire! Just seems a bit safer over all.
Any thoughts, suggestions, cautions,????
On a bike that small a drum may just provide adequate braking, I guess it depends on the brakes themselves. I personally do not know the details, but I ave heard it said that brakes are something of a science that is little talked about by novices. I'm not sure how true that is, but it is definitely something I'd be wary of. On a small light bike, you want the right amount of stopping power, too much is not necessarily a good thing.

That said though I've done some things folks say are crazy. For insatnace I had an XS1100 full dresser I got super cheap and it had one leaky caliper. Never having rebuilt brakes, nor haaving money or a source of Yamaha parts I simply diabled one caliper and went with single disk on the front. I've been riding bicycles on pavement since I was 5 or 6 and have a god feel for it. I actually barely noticed a difference, but I had guys on the Yamaha boards telling me how insane I was. I'm still alive and aside from one instance where the ex wife was watching,a nd we were both laughing, I never laid that bike down. I made the stupid mistake a couple months after buying it of trying to turn it aroud to park a bit too quickly on wet grass. It has crash bas and no damage, and it happened almost as if in slow motion, I crawled up the high side as I went down laughing at my folly. That bike was fun, but too much bike, what a tank (not to mention at best I got 27mpg).
 

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I'd use the CMX triples, you know they'll fit right and spacing will be correct at the wheel so your brake and speedo drive will work correctly. Perhaps clamp the fork in the CMX lower triple and see if your top triple fits? That will be an easy and valid test, plus if its a go you can easily mount your stock speedo and everything else.

For your speedometer you may be able to keep the stock 200 unit. My understanding is that most Honda speedometers use the same drive ratio, the difference is in the speedometer drive at the front hub. If the CMX cable fits your speedo you may be all set.

What road block is there to using the stock cm headlight mounting?

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Addressing the brake issue. I don't think going from a drum to a disc will make any noticeable difference, the dry weights of the two bikes are very close. Twinstar= 302 lbs, Rebel= 306 lbs. Adjusted properly the disc should work fine.

Think I'll be using the entire Rebel front end. No loose bearings in the neck, no fit problems as far as wheel spacing. Not overly worried about the speedometer. I've used a few different ones on the Twinstar. Seems to be if the dial doesn't read any more than 85 mph (top speed) the unit will work. Yes, the tire diameter is one inch larger, shouldn't make a huge difference. I judge my speed more by sound then the speedo.
Headlight on the Twinstar mounts from the sides, Rebel headlight mounts from the bottom. Could and probably will use a fork mount for the headlight. Least of the problems to work out.
Choke cable is something that needs to be figured out. Twin is mounted between the risers, Reb is controlled at the left hand grip. Like the idea of it at the grip...
 

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Addressing the brake issue. I don't think going from a drum to a disc will make any noticeable difference, the dry weights of the two bikes are very close. Twinstar= 302 lbs, Rebel= 306 lbs. Adjusted properly the disc should work fine.

Think I'll be using the entire Rebel front end. No loose bearings in the neck, no fit problems as far as wheel spacing. Not overly worried about the speedometer. I've used a few different ones on the Twinstar. Seems to be if the dial doesn't read any more than 85 mph (top speed) the unit will work. Yes, the tire diameter is one inch larger, shouldn't make a huge difference. I judge my speed more by sound then the speedo.
Headlight on the Twinstar mounts from the sides, Rebel headlight mounts from the bottom. Could and probably will use a fork mount for the headlight. Least of the problems to work out.
Choke cable is something that needs to be figured out. Twin is mounted between the risers, Reb is controlled at the left hand grip. Like the idea of it at the grip...
You know I have NEVER had a Honda with the choke cable mounted between the risers that wasn't broken (though mine now is fixed enough to work). The handlebar ones are much better. Greasing the shaft that pulls the cable is the key to thos POS things, that's what seizes, not the cable itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
First small snag has come up. I need to identify the year of this front end. It's no longer on the bike, so using the VIN is not an option.
It has no reflectors on the struts, the disc is mounted on the left side (sitting on the bike and looking forward). Are there numbers on the master cylinder and brake caliper that would be of any use? As I understand it, there are different "generations" for the Rebel's. I want to make sure I get the right parts to do a complete over haul.
 

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Your new front end is 1996 or newer since there's no reflectors. The lowers/sliders fit all 1996 thru 2016 Rebel 250's. Doubtful you'll find any useful numbers on the other parts. You can go thru and check year/model variations of parts using Western Honda for part numbers and Partzilla lists what models use a given part number
 

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There were only 2 generations of 250 Rebels, you have a gen 2 with your brake disc on the left side.

Generation 2 Rebels were built from 1996 to 2016.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Long distance and Alan, thank you both! I've been using a few Honda Parts sites, to narrow down and variation in the parts themselves. Doesn't seem to be any difference. Seems cheaper to buy aftermarket units then rebuild kits!?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Small progress update. I've rebuilt the master cylinder and caliper, neither were overly difficult to do. Sight glass on the master cylinder was a bit of hassle, finally pressed it in using a vise. Wheel bearings replaced. I went to a local Bike Shop to have them pulled because I couldn't get the old ones out. Cost me $20, figured it was cheaper than a tool I'd use once or twice. Fork and dust seals replaced.
At this point I'm trying to figure out what handle bar switches and cables I can swap over to the Twinstar. The master cylinder is a no brainier, with a small rewire job for the brake light switch. Choke and throttle cables are going to require modification(s). Rebel choke cable has extremely small ends and a spring. Don't know if I'll need the spring for the handle mount choke. Throttle cable needs some more thought.
Might just stick with the Twinstar controls and figure out a re-location for the pull choke..
 

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There should be no problem staying with the Twinstar switches, why all the need to mod the control cables? Are the Rebel bars that much higher? If so why not swap them out for lower bars?

You're making good progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There should be no problem staying with the Twinstar switches, why all the need to mod the control cables? Are the Rebel bars that much higher? If so why not swap them out for lower bars? You're making good progress.
I wanted to move the choke from between the risers to the handlebar. (There is also a fit issue using the stock speedometer and ignition switch as the choke is in the way.) Using the Rebel units would accomplish this. In order to keep things matched, I'd need to use the other Rebel switch. Bar height is not a problem. I have to find a solution to relocate the choke.
 

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Cool, documenting the challenges of the swap will really help everyone understand what you're going through as well as help everyone else who wants to follow you.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update: Caliper (new pads) and master cylinder (new sight glass) both rebuilt. Fork seals and dust seals replaced. New Front wheel bearings installed. Used stock fender in place. Older (sealed beam) NOS headlight installed.
Working on neck bearings and a relocation for the pull choke.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Bike.jpg Well, here she is. 2006 Rebel front end on a 1980 Twinstar. Converted to 12 Volts, Using a 2006 Rebel wiring harness, lights changed to leds with the addition of a "metric diode" Kickstand and Clutch safeties hard wired. Neutral safety left functional with it's diode. Starter relay changed to a Rebel unit. Fuses for headlight and horn from Rebel harness moved to helmet lock location w/ lock removed. Headlight is the "older" version, and will be left alone.
 

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Nice! I cant wait for a ride report after you put a few miles on it.
If you painted that front fender to match fewer people would even know.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nice! I cant wait for a ride report after you put a few miles on it.
If you painted that front fender to match fewer people would even know.
So far the ride has been pretty good on the few round the block test drives. Yeah, wouldn't mind getting all the painted parts to match. Don't know if I'd good to the original green or with the Rebel Blue?
 
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